Rear Brake Centering.

BillCNC

Well-known member
Did the fronts, but how does the tool do the rears as advertised? It says to mount with the axle nut, ... nope.

Regards
Bill
 

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Bill, I recently had to figure out the difference between using that tool on the rear. I carefully slipped two of the rings onto the bearing journal, then set the adjustable pointer and rotate. It would be the bottom two rings in your picture.
 
When you use that tool, do you need to adjust the diameter of the shoes to match the diameter of the drum to allow the centering tool to measure correctly.

or

Are measurements tested at different locations on both shoes to compare to each other to see if it is centered, with out setting the diameter of the shoes i do not see how it will work.


Please explain , Thank you
 
Rear drum installation can be a pain! Make sure the parking brake band is at the smallest diameter, put the centering tool over the bearing race adjust the tool to a shoe in the middle of the shoe. Move the tool towards an end of the shoe if you can, move and adjust the tool until you can move the tool in an arc, move the shoe until the shoe is centered. Move to the other shoe, when you can turn the tool all the way around with the pointer just touching the shoes then you can install the drum

You really need to play with the tool and get a feel for it, once you do you’ll see how to use it
 
OK, I got it.

The instructions seem simple enough, but obviously not. It does not explain that the feeler part of the tool needs to be flipped and then reinstalled. No bearing or nut to retain the tool like the front can be used, per instructions. Might be why it seemed like a simple task.

Worst part is everyone who sells the tool shares the same incomplete instructions.

Regards
Bill
 
Anyone ever seen someone take an old drum and cut windows in it? Seems to me like that would work.
 
Wouldn't cutting "windows" in brake drums allow dirt and/or water into the brake mechanism? Doesn't sound like a good idea to me unless reserved for the race track.
 
Bill,

You might get a better idea of the 'goal' after reading p. 97 March, April, May 1933 Service Bulletins.
A lot of very good Model A service related information in the 1932- 34 Service Bulletins.
 
I have used a cutaway drum to center the brake shoes. This drum is used only for centering the shoes. It is replaced with a functional drum after the shoes are centered.
Bob


brake-center01.jpg
 
Rear drum installation can be a pain! Make sure the parking brake band is at the smallest diameter, put the centering tool over the bearing race adjust the tool to a shoe in the middle of the shoe. Move the tool towards an end of the shoe if you can, move and adjust the tool until you can move the tool in an arc, move the shoe until the shoe is centered. Move to the other shoe, when you can turn the tool all the way around with the pointer just touching the shoes then you can install the drum

You really need to play with the tool and get a feel for it, once you do you’ll see how to use it


Ted, move the shoe how? With the adjusting wedge? By bending the roller track ears? Arcing the shoes?
 
Ted, move the shoe how? With the adjusting wedge? By bending the roller track ears? Arcing the shoes?

After replacing the new clevis ends back to the used old clevis ends, tapped the shoes with a hammer. There is just enough movement within the adjuster housing and the old clevis ends, the springs old the shoes in place. I didn’t need much to move the shoes. The end of the shoe with the clevis was smaller in diameter than the drum, the end of the shoes with the rollers was large than the drum diameter. Just a little tap with a hammer ( Big Hammer) and the springs held the shoes in place. Maybe not the right way??? but what worked for me, flat spotting the rear tires could be a problem now lol
 
The shoes centre themselves when the brakes are applied. The clevis is tapered and when it sits on the adjusting wedge, it can move in and out in relation to the drum.
 
The shoes centre themselves when the brakes are applied. The clevis is tapered and when it sits on the adjusting wedge, it can move in and out in relation to the drum.

True, the only difference between the front and rear is the E brake. I think the real issue in this discussing should be arcing, both front and rear.
 
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