rear axle thread

roddyb34

roddyb34

Senior Member
found the rear hub loose ,removed and checked the key and keyway looks ok the key showing wear but the thread looks stripped ,think thats why hub was loose ,am i up for an axle change ?,
 
The correct way is to change the axle. The dodgy bush engineering way is to rethread it to a size smaller. There are thread saver dies that clamp on and recut/restore the original thread, but they would only work if the thread is not too far gone.
 
Roddy, Yes thats the best fix is to replace with a good axel an nut. However I`m running one that I stripped tryin to make it to the next notch in the nut. My fix as a temp. was take the nut off an clean the threads with a brush then j b weld and a new nut and let it set for a week. Not recomended tho. I also put a steel cotter key in instead of one of the soft replacements a guy usually buys. I check it before every outing which are usually very short around town. If it comes loose you will loose the wheel and almost surely damage the fender just so you know. Again not recomended, but getting me by till I have more room and time. Monte
 
thanks guys ,thought theres no easy way out of it ,gunna try to source a good used axle ,done an axle change in the street once in the tourer in my avatar after abusing it ,not a fun thing but i was 35 years younger then ,but now i have a 2 poster lift and 2 sons to help so wont be too bad ,,,Rod
 
P9171173.jpg

the coupe belongs to my son ,its sort of a father son project ,the car in my avatar went the the US in the late 70s ,

Took the other hub off today ,the keyway is ok but the thread is ugly ,a machinist friend had a look ,reckons he could fix by tig build up and recut threads and have a go at the keyway but with the work involved i should buy 2 new axles from the US ,costly but would solve the problem,,
 
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I have worked it out that i am going to have to replace both my rear axles ,have found a complete diff with good tight hubs and keys,can any one recommend a manual with details on setting up the clearances etc. maybe i should just swap the complete rear and put my brakes on ,would be a whole lot easier and less mess ,
 
Hi Roddy, A little in line with what Mike suggested above is to use a 9/16 - 18 die on the axle ends to replace the original 5/8 - 18 thread. Castle nuts are listed in the 9/16 - 18 size, but could be hard to find in practice. Key to the success of this is going to be actually getting the die started absolutey square to the axle, an operation requiring practice and skill. Also, the taper fit of the hub-to-axle taper is crucial, because if it is not perfect, that bad boy will work itself loose no matter what you do. Try to find a grade 8 or grade C nut to go on the axle if you can. The ideal metric size as Mike suggested would be 15 mm, but I do not see a 15 mm thread in my own listing here. The metric thread listings I have seem to jump from 14 mm (too small) to 16mm (too large). You could do this operation with the axle on the car if you so desired. Good Luck!
 
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If you check a Dealers Price List book, the nut used on the axel (5/8-18) is listed as special; its hardened, as is the axel, so it can be torqued to 80 to 100 lbs. There is also another 5/8-18 nut listed in the book but it is not special; if this nut was used on a axel it would probable strip the threads when trying to torque.

I personally don't think its a good idea to recut threads to a smaller size on an axel; remember all the power is transfered thru the end of the axel to the wheels and that why its so important to torque the rear hub so it doesn't damage the key, key way, or the axel end.

Just my opinion,

Ron
 
thanks guys for all your suggestions and opinions ,it is a great forum and i am learning so much reading all the topics ,i will get my other diff home and decide the best way to do it ,i want it too be right and it not always the easiest ,thanks from Rod
 
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