Rear Axle Fastener Torque

U

ursus

Well-known member
I'm helping a guy whose rear axle has a leak somewhere around the torque tube / banjo junction. The previous owner rebuilt the rear end using non-Ford bolts with lock washers all around the banjo, left and right bells, and the torque tube. I'm only familiar with the original Ford assembly which has no lock washers and bolts torqued to 35 lbs and secured with wire.

What torque should be needed in this situation where there are lock washers squishing around under the bolts?
 
I'd remove and replace the bolts with the proper Ford fasteners. It's not expensive and you can properly torque the bolts and know it's done right.
 
Unless the threads have been "screwed" up by the new bolts/ Try some sealer on the bolts or wrap dental floss on the bolts and re-install. FWIW
Paul in CT
 
I suspect that the threads may have been "screwed up" by the Grade 5 non-Ford bolts and will continue to use them in this situation. I will remove the torque tube, clean up the mess, and replace the tube with a generous application of Permatex Aviation Sealer.

My main question concerns the amount of torque needed for securing bolts having lock washers as compared to bolts without.
 
No difference, 35 # creates the acme clamping force as another fastener with 35#. A change in thread pitch will alter clamping force. The lock washers might diminish the ability to seal under the head of the bolts.
 
The bolts attaching the tube to housing are blind or open to outside only. You only have to worry about sealing the flange.
 
The presence of lock washers will not affect the stretch desired in the bolt on tensioning. Torque to the same amount. By the time the torque is sufficient, the lockwasher is "flat" anyway.

I would replace with Ford bolts without lockwashers. The difference in bolting between aftermarket and original Ford bolts is one of sizing tolerance, the Ford bolts being a higher class fit of bolt (i.e. less space between male and female thread) Using a non-ford bolt in a Ford hole will not change the thread of the Ford hole. Permatex type substance improves your chance of a leak-free fit and most bolting torque values are specified "lubricated" which the Permatex compound is a suitable substitute.

Joe K
 
redmodelt said:
The bolts attaching the tube to housing are blind or open to outside only. You only have to worry about sealing the flange.
Click to expand...


They are through holes, not blind.


Edit: Was thinking of the axle housing to banjo connection
 
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Sorry I was not clear enough, this is what I was referring to; "I'm helping a guy whose rear axle has a leak somewhere around the torque tube"
 
Nope, you're fine. I read this entire thread and somehow still thought trumpet to banjo instead of torque tube...
 
He asked about both, but his main concern seems to be the T-tube to banjo. Because they are wired after install they would just be a standard 3/8" find thread bolt. ( I have not read anything to say otherwise)
 
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