re-install 36 distributor

36 ford

36 ford

Senior Member
Howdy folks,

I'm soliciting tips on how one person re-installs the dang helmet distributor with barely room to get one hand there in the front of the motor . I know an extra set of hands helps. I don't understand the logic in this design with a fan blade, generator and a radiator about 2 inches away.

Thanks for the help..

Phil
 
My dad always said "Car's are designed by people who don't work on them!". Try getting a longer bolt of the same size and cutting the head off the bolt, thread it in a few turns and use it as an Alignment pin/extra rest. Then get the tab lined up and against the cam and thread the other two bolt into their holes, then unthread your alignment bolt and thread the third bolt into place!!!! OR cut three and swap out once you get it all lined up!!!!
 
(1)It helps to set the tang at the approximate angle to the Dog slot in the cam ,eg wide side down or up .you can use carb stud screwed in to help locate it .(2)with the vacuum adjuster stud and coil removed ,from the left side of the car slide the distributor in side ways with the left hand then rotate it ,.With the right hand through the coil hole rotate the rotor to engage with the dog ,(3)fit the removed parts while its on the car ,you could do it with the coil on and fit a bolt loose then rotate the shaft/rotor to engage the dog also (typing at the same time as Rocfla )
 
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#1 thing is to put a piece of corrugated cardboard on radiator core to protect it & your hand
Cheers
Tony
 
I realize you have to remove the pan below the grille to do this, but installing the distributor from the bottom I believe is easier than fighting the fan, hoses and generator.
 
Installing from the bottom is the easiest way to go.
The can be put in place from the top complete with coil fitted on top.
Once you get the right angle and then a twist and complete fitting from below.
have in last few weeks had distributors in and out many many times and thats even with the small adaptor button on the cam in play. This can be held in place with a drop of grease on the surface to cam while distributor is fitted.
Best of luck.
Phil NZ
Phil NZ.
 
I made 2 temporary studs to install finger tight in the 2 highest holes. This way it is easy to keep the gasket in place while I slide the distributor onto the studs. I reach in with my finger through one of the cap holes and turn the rotor to line up the drive tang and slide it into place. Put in the one bolt finger tight and then remove the other 2 studs and put in the bolts one at a time. When you are sure all is lined up tighten the 3 bolts and you're done. I used to dread this job but not anymore.
 
Pulling the fan is the easiest way and make sure your dist will move easily when you fit it up, twist it back and forth to make sure it is all the way in and the tang is properly aligned prior to putting the bolts in.
 
Something the others haven't mentioned... The tang is slightly offset to insure that it is not installed 180º out. When engaged correctly, the distributor will drop cleanly into place against the engine. Do not draw it into place with the mounting bolts!
I also agree that using a longer headless stud as a locating pin is the way to go.
 
>>>I don't understand the logic in this design with a fan blade, generator and a radiator about 2 inches away.>>>

The helmet & crabs were designed to be cheap, symmetrical & unobstrusive, not serviceable. Probably cuz Ford engineers had the foresight to realize the hotly-anticipated electronic ignition wouldn't need much servicing as points & condensers. There's your logic! 8^) Jack E/NJ
 
I always changed the distributor from the top on my 38,some guy at a show said it was easier from the bottom, have to remove radiator pan, and horn steady bracket, but they come off easy,I tried it that's the way to go, the horns probably wouldn't be an issue on a 36
 
Pre 37 cars can be changed from the top ok because the fender shield s are low , 37 onwards the side panel needs to be removed .or fit from the bottom that's been mentioned .In the day when we drove them as regular transport I cannot remember ever having to work on a distributor ,genuine Ford parts and set up by a competent Ford tecknishon ? it will last for thousands of miles .his plan not to have it of every week ,
 
Parts were quality and well made back then. Once they were serviced, they could go a long time with no problems. With modern condensers, there is a good chance they will go bad and ruin the points.
 
My dad tells a story of going to a v8 club meeting in the 70s and the speaker was the guy who put the distributor in that spot. Started his speech by saying that he was the ************** the put the distributor on the front of the flathead. He went on to say the Henry would not spend the extra money to move it to a better spot.
 
You mean that SOB really didn't have any foresight and blamed it all on his boss for being cheap? Jack E/NJ
 
I have always removed the bottom radiator pan on the 36 Ford to service the distributer. Ive done a few and its fairly easy. Doing it from the top is only making more work for yourself. Regards, Kevin.
 
Kevin, thats what you get with those new fangled models,if you stick to the 33/34 its no drama,Lol
Lawrie
 
Marion Mallory was the one who put it there at Henry Ford's request. It had to drive off the cam so it was bolted right to the front of it. It eliminated gears and the need for timing the engine plus it had an automatic advance/retard system built in. This started in 1932 with the V8. Mallory moved his whole operation to Detroit to product designs and parts for Ford Motor Company. I think the guy was a genius for his time and Henry did too. I believe he died in 1963 but his son did take over the business.

The distributor was refined over the years from 1932 to 1946 to try and improve things and kept till the 8BA era. The 1942 crab made it easier to work on but it became vulnerable to moisture contamination so it was redesigned in the war years to get it sealed back up. They didn't have computers to help them figure this stuff out. It was all trial and error but overall, I think they did a pretty good job of it. I'd rather work at the front of the engine than crawl over the engine to get to the rear like the Y-blocks were.
 
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