Re-core radiator cost

To be Devils advocate, just cleaned out a yblock and pumped it to a stock rad. Rad was flushed and painted. Runs 160 over a 60 mile trip. Guess a 180 temp gauge is in order.
 
The radiator says "EUREKA" I have no idea if it's a replacement or an original, I put a new leather gasket in the cap and it quickly turned to soft mush, the cap is kind of beat up and rough looking so I have a new one on order, can't see to far down the neck due to the baffle. When I take the cap off after one of the spewing problems the level is not far down, I'm filling the radiator up to the bottom of the baffle.
As long as I stay under 40 there seems to be no problem.
And I'm not running a thermostat.
 
Forgot to mention that my starter went out (lead from field coil broke) so wont be able to try the new cap until those parts come in.

And no, I'm not hand starting it, with my luck I'd break an arm.
 
burner31 said:
The radiator says "EUREKA" I have no idea if it's a replacement or an original, I put a new leather gasket in the cap and it quickly turned to soft mush, the cap is kind of beat up and rough looking so I have a new one on order, can't see to far down the neck due to the baffle. When I take the cap off after one of the spewing problems the level is not far down, I'm filling the radiator up to the bottom of the baffle.
As long as I stay under 40 there seems to be no problem.
And I'm not running a thermostat.
Click to expand...


Originals did not say "eureka".
 
Last edited:
burner31 said:
The radiator says "EUREKA" I have no idea if it's a replacement or an original, I put a new leather gasket in the cap and it quickly turned to soft mush, the cap is kind of beat up and rough looking so I have a new one on order, can't see to far down the neck due to the baffle. When I take the cap off after one of the spewing problems the level is not far down, I'm filling the radiator up to the bottom of the baffle.
As long as I stay under 40 there seems to be no problem.
And I'm not running a thermostat.
Click to expand...

Vinegar
 
I'll hit the dollar store and pick up 10 bottles of white vinegar
Run it for about a week than back flush
Salt/pepper and a garnish

Of course I can't run it til I get the starter fixed but I can let it soak until I can fire her up
 
burner31 said:
I'll hit the dollar store and pick up 10 bottles of white vinegar
Run it for about a week than back flush
Salt/pepper and a garnish

Of course I can't run it til I get the starter fixed but I can let it soak until I can fire her up
Click to expand...

I had to do more than that. I removed the radiator and back flushed it inverted and more chucks of rust came out. You will probably have to do this several times before it totally clears up. Be fore warned you may end up with some leaks as rust may have been plugging pin holes
 
The new radiators from Snyders cost $530, is there a problem with them that people are paying more to have their old rads re-cored and restored or are they just wanting to keep things absolutely original?
 
johnbuckley said:
The new radiators from Snyders cost $530, is there a problem with them that people are paying more to have their old rads re-cored and restored or are they just wanting to keep things absolutely original?
Click to expand...

I like original tanks and frames the best, and with a new Berg's core you will have a radiator that fits and cools like it should. Be sure to use antifreeze and make sure the block is clean, or you may plug up the new radiator.

I used a sump pump and large tub of water to backflush my block and radiator. You need a good strong flow of water, which won't come from a garden hose.
 
UPDATE
Ran vinegar for a week, came out looking like dark coffee along with some small chunks.
installed a water temp gauge.
Flushed well, neutralized with baking soda, back flushed, more small chunks came out.
Re-filled with antifreeze and water, ran it down the road.
Hit 180 - 190 cruising around slow, get her up to 45+ the temp goes up to 220 then drops back to 180, then goes back up, then back down.
Is this a steam bubble problem?
Thinking I need a thermostat, 160 or 180?
If that don't fix it I will pull the radiator, block off the bottom tube then fill with evapo-rust for a few days.
What I really need is a rod out, just finding a shop to do this is the problem.
Any suggestions?
A new 700 dollar radiator is not an option at this time.
 
Again check with Bert's in Denver for a re-core swap. May be less than 700 and maybe just as good as some current new ones.
 
Fred K-OR said:
Again check with Bert's in Denver for a re-core swap. May be less than 700 and maybe just as good as some current new ones.
Click to expand...
The last time I got recore from Bert's it was a FOUR Tube, and the tubes were properly staggered. that makes a difference.:p
 
burner31 said:
UPDATE
Ran vinegar for a week, came out looking like dark coffee along with some small chunks.
installed a water temp gauge.
Flushed well, neutralized with baking soda, back flushed, more small chunks came out.
Re-filled with antifreeze and water, ran it down the road.
Hit 180 - 190 cruising around slow, get her up to 45+ the temp goes up to 220 then drops back to 180, then goes back up, then back down.
Is this a steam bubble problem?
Thinking I need a thermostat, 160 or 180?
If that don't fix it I will pull the radiator, block off the bottom tube then fill with evapo-rust for a few days.
What I really need is a rod out, just finding a shop to do this is the problem.
Any suggestions?
A new 700 dollar radiator is not an option at this time.
Click to expand...

"Thinking I need a thermostat, 160 or 180?"

Is it your thinking that a thermostat will lower the temp?

As for rodding it out, it seems to me you have little choice and an opportunity for great personal satisfaction.

If there is no shop around and you plan to either have it recored, or replaced this is what I would do.

Take the radiator out of the car (has to be done anyway), place it on a board and trace around it to get an accurate outline. With a propane torch remove the top tank. Go to a hobby/craft store and purchase two 3' pieces of music wire and one tube. One wire and the tube about 1/2 the diameter on the radiator tube and one wire just under the size of the tube. Round off the bottom edges of the wires and crimp a periodontal brush in the tube. Using the rods, clean out the tubes, forcing any junk into the bottom tank, follow up with the brush. Once done flush out the radiator and the bottom tank.

Place the top tank on the core, place the assembly on the board to check for height and solder back in place.

If that does not work you "wasted" about $20.00 and an afternoon. If it does work you saved, well, see above posts, and also gained personal satisfaction in a job well done.
 
I don't think anyone has mentioned yet to send your radiator shell along with the radiator carcass you want to get re-cored, to make sure the holes line up. though perhaps some shops would just ignore the shell and tell you they referred to it.
 
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