Re-core radiator cost

burner31

Well-known member
Anyone done a re-core lately?
I'm having overheating problems, I'm thinking the radiator is just to old and gummed up.
I know a new one will cost about six bills.
Tried the radiator flush, and it's not any better.
Ideas anyone?
 
Where do we get the core?
Common size?
I'm a "do it yourself" kind of guy, so if I could get the core I sure as heck would give it a try.
 
Find a shop that does TRUCK/TRACTOR radumators, sometimes they'll make you a "DEAL", just for the "FUN" of helping a Model A fanatic!!
Bill W.
 
I ment clean the old one out. My rad shop said they send the core place the measurements and they are custom made.
 
Bill that don,t happen down under, $950 for last recore , Nice alloy one from china land $245 , it don,t fit , cost another $ 50 to make fit. ( put the filler neck in the right place ) Don,t go there. Winter time in NZ . 9 weeks till blast off.
 
Yes, I would try the chinese alloy ones for the price , but a word of warning to OZ ebayers.

All the ones I have found on ebay (supposedly IN OZ ) are from the SAME warehouse in Laverton Melbourne.

They are all different ads and different wording and pics and different ebay names, but they are all out of the same place.

Price seems good and when you check the core size on every ad, they are about 1 1/2 inches too short and 1 1/2 inches too narrow. .

Imagine seeing these gaps beside the core and the top and bottom tank showing from the front.
 
Try a real radiator shop that can R&R the top and bottom tanks and can rod the tubes and pinch off or repair leaks.
 
Find a shop that does TRUCK/TRACTOR radumators, sometimes they'll make you a "DEAL", just for the "FUN" of helping a Model A fanatic!!
Bill W.

Now that's thinking outside the box...lot of truckers, lot of tractors out here in Okie land.
Would have never thought of that, Thanks Bill
I'm going to pursue that line of thinking.
 
Went for a drive today, got about eight miles out, doing between 45-50 when started to get spray on windshield from the rad cap, some visible steam, seemed to slow down once I got under 35.
Has to be the radiator...right?
 
I would say your cap needs a better gasket, and your radiator is at least somewhat plugged and not letting the coolant flow down fast enough. Get it rodded out, or recored.
 
It the gasket is good nothing should ever be see at the cap.

As for recore, have you checked Bergs for just a core. Call them as their web site is rather lacking.
 
Theres a shop in fort worth that will do a 3 row modern core radiator that pressurized in the $4-500 range. But i think its closer to the 400. After thats done, no matter what temp it is outside, your motors never above 170
 
Been the complete route! Conclusion for me was... spending 300-500 for refurbishing a radiator is nothing more than a crap shoot. I took the plunge and bought a Berg.
If you want a pressurized one for your A they will build it.

I stayed with their 3 row 10 fins per inch and no more problems. Now installing a thermostat to warm things up a bit :)

The lesson: I now watch the road instead of the darn temp gauge!
 
Burner31
I had some leaking from my radiator cap and replaced the gaskets with the correct gaskets to resolve that issue. I bought the car with homemade gaskets.
 
It's about 5-600 around here. Well worth it to me and hope the guys that do it are around for a while. If not what option do we have.

First thing I do on a new car, never run cooler.
 
Anyone done a re-core lately?
I'm having overheating problems, I'm thinking the radiator is just to old and gummed up.
I know a new one will cost about six bills.
Tried the radiator flush, and it's not any better.
Ideas anyone?

A couple of quick points. First, I looked a couple of your pics posted in the past. The radiator in your car is an older replacement. Good or bad, I can't say because I've only been around originals the last 2-3 decades. If you go to someone without sufficient experience it my not help much.

Do you see any oil film floating on the water in the radiator? It could have issues from over greasing water pump in past years in which case the typical radiator flush will not address it. Other folks here have more experience than I at dealing with that one.

Lastly, look down into the top of the radiator after one of these episodes (after cooling a bit!) and see hoe low the water level is. Can you see the tops of the cooling tubes or is there a baffle blocking the view?

There are a couple more questions relating to your specific answers to the last paragraph that can be addressed depending on your answers.
 
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