In my experience re arched springs like to loose their new arch more quickly the second time around and adding leafs to the pack to prevent this gives a rougher ride.
I would agree with the thought that re-arching will make a spring more liable to "lose" this arch.
Pushing a spring leaf "past the point of no return" as in reforming the arch MUST involve bringing the metal beyond the yield point. Some sort of deformation must be occurring. And once deformed - it don't go back .
Well, that is the point of going past the yield.
Also the matter of "fatigue." Think aluminum can pull rings as you bend them back and forth until they break off - you're fatiguing the metal by repeated passage past the yield point until the metal fractures at the grain boundaries (hence the "irregular" appearance of the fractured joint.)
And before the pull ring breaks you sense that it gets "easier" to bend it.
Still, re-arching can be used to extend the life of a spring.
One Model A parts vendor has a front spring 10 leaf for $147.00. And a rear spring 7 leaf for $259.00
The Ford parts price sheet for July 1, 1931 states the same springs as $2.75 and $4.50 respectively. I would have to imagine that the quality is there. I reached my front spring 3 years and 2000 miles ago and have not had any problems. I have had no experience with new springs. Reforming by hand should be done cold.
I maintained a fleet of trucks years ago and we sent the rear springs to a rebuilder who reshaped and baked them to re temper the steel. I don't remember the cost but the process worked well and the springs held up the abuse that a dump truck is usually subjected to. So that having been said, I think that it boils down to what will work best for you.