re-arching front leaf spring using a press

TreeTopFlier

TreeTopFlier

Member
Hello All,

Having more time then funds currently, I've lined out a few projects on the A for this winter. One of them is addressing the front leaf spring which sets a bit low (the rear seems to be fine.

In the past I've used a U channel and a BIG hammer, but I kind of feel like saving my shoulders for reeling in BIG fish :)

So my plan was to re-arch them using a hydraulic press. Any tips or suggestions?

Thanks
 
I did mine in a good vice and did each leaf about an inch at a time and it was easy and only took about an hour to get it back to the correct dimensions.
 
Get two steal blocks like brick size blocks and position about 6" apart with the press head in the middle just slide the leef back and forth untill u put a nice ach it it when your done line them up as they would go you may need to arch some more than others it's ok if u over ach them a bit I used a vice to compress it to put the bolt though if over arch it and u don't have a spreader than just compress it with the press on a 2x4 or 4x4 and stick a metal pipe between the eyes to hold it were it needs to be just becarful it's like a bow and arrow te truck might list one way or the other dont worrie it will settle after a week.
 
I used my 8 inch jaw vise, and a 3 foot pipe wrench. As stated above it took about an hour. Ground the ends of the springs so they wouldnt dig in, coated the tops with never seize. Some spray bomb black. Checked and replaced shackle bushings as needed. A low cost fix, spent some quality time with my car, and improved the ride and handling.
 
TreeTopFlier .........................
It's a good idea to draw a pattern of the arch, you wish to achieve, on the floor with a piece of chalk. That way, by checking it, you can keep it even.
MIKE :)
 
Draw the pattern of the main leaf (chalk on a clean shop floor). Start with re-arching the main leaf with a one inch more curve.Do the next longest leaf with a little more arch than the previous leaf (1/2" should be enough). Do the next longest leaf with 3/8" more arch than the previous leaf. Then the next with 1/4" more, the next with 1/8" more, the remaining leaves with the same arches as the 4th leaf. NEVER press the leaf in the center bolt area. And yes, chamfer the leaf ends. Paint each leaf individually. Then assemble. You will have a nice ride providing your shock absorbers are doing their job.
 
Alot of guys here will say paint your leafs but from every spring guy iv talked to and my own experience its both unessacery / not a great idea when the leaves are together and the car on top there is enough friction to rip any paint on there off no meter how good a paint it is up and now you have flaky crap between your leaves that will hold mosture and inhibit nice clean movemnt of the springs your better option it to sand smooth and to coat with a graphite anti seize or even bearing grease if your funds are like mine lol and forget it if it's not a show car eaither way there is so much friction and constaint rubbing it dosent alow rust to form unless the car sits for years unmoved. You'll see if your car has been driven at all in the next few years when you pull apart the leaves they will be relitivly clean no flaky rust or anything. And if there is any old sines of rust or pitting it's becouse at one point in the last 80 odd years it has sat for an expended lenth of time
 
I recently refurbished my springs and put a couple coats of graphite paint between the leaves extending out to the "sliding' areas, then re-assembled the pack and used Rustoleum on all the exposed bare metal surfaces and the sides. I could have used the graphite paint all over, but my speedster springs are more visible than those on fendered cars so I wanted a nice black color.

By the way, you can get graphite paint at Tractor Supply, it's called "EZ-Slide"
 
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