Standing Elk
Senior Member
Has anyone had their front spring re arced as opposed to just replacing it? Thanks
Re arc front spring
- Thread starter Standing Elk
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BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
We do it on almost every front spring now. We made sweeps to make each leaf to the correct contour. We have a fixture that is basically two pieces of round bar stock that we use in the press to support the leaf. Then gently radius the leaf as we move it along. Most leaves do not need any more than a couple of light presses to put them back into the correct shape. I will see if I can add a picture or two of the sweeps and holding fixture.
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Standing Elk
Senior Member
Thanks Brent. I am curious how you deturmin what the correct radius for each leaf is. Is there some specs. from Ford? Would also really appreciate the pictures. Another question, have you ever had any heated, retempered and re arced by a spring company. I have had the main springs on cats done that way. Would the springs tend to stay within spec better if they were re tempered? Thanks
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
I actually have all of the engineering prints from Ford which gives the radius arc. We drew it up in Solidworks and then used a CNC Plasma to cut it out of sheetmetal.
We generally grind a slight bevel into each end of the #1 - #9 leaf so the will glide better on the leaf below them. We don’t use heat (-just bend them cold).
We generally grind a slight bevel into each end of the #1 - #9 leaf so the will glide better on the leaf below them. We don’t use heat (-just bend them cold).
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
I doubt it. I guess I look at it this way. Most leaves have held up the load for about 90 years. If I can re-arch them where they only will last 1/2 of that 90 years, likely in the next 40-45 years, the front end will need to be rebuilt again, and so someone can re-arc them again at that time.
Standing Elk
Senior Member
Bert, 10-4 LOL
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
No not really. We set radius of the #1 spring to a radius of 19⅝" and then compare the ℄ measurement from eye-to-eye on the factory print and see if comes up to about 32¹⁵⁄₁₆". That is the developed length. Once all of the springs are re-arched and installed, the ℄ measurement from eye-to-eye should be about 30¾".
Another aspect that many miss (-including the repros I have seen) is under the tips of the #2 - #10 leaf, you should be able to insert a 0.015" thick feeler gage underneath the tip from ⅛" to ⅜" according to the print. We do 'fudge' a tad on this if the leaf has wear, but this is one main reason why the paint never scrapes off of the spring during normal driving.
Doug Linden
Senior Member
Great information Brent, thanks.
Synchro909
Well-known member
Brent, IT has always been my experience that a spring re arced cold will not hold its shape for long. How do yours hold up after a few years of pounding in a car?