Rattle-can painting

marty in Ohio

marty in Ohio

Well-known member
Guys,
I'm going to paint the fenders on my town sedan and I want to do this myself with rattle-can paint. A friend painted his entire coupe with Krylon paint and it turned out really good, but he didn't dare get any gasoline on the surface. He finally had the car clear coated. Will Rustoleum do the job for me or should I pick something else. I don't have access to a compressor and paint booth.
 
Check Youtube for videos on painting Rustoleum with a foam roller. They did an amazing job and looked like high end paint job after wet sanding and polishing. You need to get a lot of material on there to do the wet sanding so you don't go through to the primer. I prefer the Valspar that you get from TSC @ about $11/qt. They also sell a hardener/glosser for about $12. 2 quarts and a bottle glosser and about 6-7 roller and you're at about $40 and no overspray.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jv7aQQ_NU6U
 
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The are some paint stores that can mix single stage good quality paint into rattle cans. I have used them for touch up spots and they work excellent. Not cheap but the best you can buy for a can.
 
You could try this paint. Very authentic! :D


P4170006.jpg
 
Dupl-color paint in rattle cans, made by Sherwin Williams. They also have it in pre mixed quarts both in laqure and enamel, clear coat too. Real nice paint to work with. results last fairly long. Did my interrior window moldings, dash rail about 2 years ago, still look good.
 
marty in Ohio said:
Guys,
I'm going to paint the fenders on my town sedan and I want to do this myself with rattle-can paint. A friend painted his entire coupe with Krylon paint and it turned out really good, but he didn't dare get any gasoline on the surface. He finally had the car clear coated. Will Rustoleum do the job for me or should I pick something else. I don't have access to a compressor and paint booth.
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Krylon is not that good
 
If you plan to sand and buff the final paint, be sure to use the gloss hardener in any enamel. If you don't use the hardener you will sand through the thin tough outer layer of the paint and it will dull down quickly and never remain shiny vey long.
 
Rustolum is oil based and will continually shrink. It will cause cracking as the layers of paint shink at different rates.

The other paints are thin junk with no real long term protection.

Keep that in mind as you decide. I do not know what your goals are.
 
Hey Marty, I have seen that car. It looks amazing. It looks better than a lot of custom paint jobs I've seen.
 
Thanks guys for all the suggestions!! I'll probably go with something like Duplicolor. It seems to work O.K. on modern cars as a touch up. When my friend painted with Krylon he had a craze problem and I called Krylon for him. I was told that Krylon won't withstand gas but Duplicolor will. They are both made by Sherwin Williams. I'll let you know how it works out.
 
If you are doing black, consider DuPont's Centari enamel, it lays down very nicely with a good brush plus hardener can be added if you need to color sand and buff. It is relatively low cost.
 
If you are stuck with spray cans . . get lacquer. I would not use a spray can enamel on an exterior piece. At least with the lacquer, you know you can sand and buff. That being said, you can buy automotive paint that has been put into spray cans. You can buy online as well. But don't use enamel normally found in spray cans.
 
Over in Yesterday's Tractors, some of the guys would do it with a brush and before it dried, They would put a topcoat on with a spray can. The brush coat needs to be thin.
I painted my 1938 Allis Chalmers with Persian Orange #1 that way. Go to my profile and scroll down. BUT It's a Tractor, not a car!
Terry
 
What I found, in the 50 ft paint jobs I have done, is that a person needs to know a little bit about spray painting. Like how much to put on per coat, what does it look like when you have enough, etc.. I found that I could learn how to paint first by painting parts that don't show much and then go on to the parts that do show.

If you are an experience painter, forget my comments.
 
gweilbaker said:
If you are doing black, consider DuPont's Centari enamel, it lays down very nicely with a good brush plus hardener can be added if you need to color sand and buff. It is relatively low cost.
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Can you even get Centari any longer? I tried buying some at a local auto paint supply house last fall, and they told me it was no longer available.
 
go with dupli color
this fender to was painted well over 12 years ago
it has never been waxed,nor is the turck ever garaged
it sits out every day and night in the hot California sun
I wash it MAYBE twice a year
I did wipe it with a wet rag for the photo shoot you can see the rest of the hood is still dirty
and you can see where the original paint on the cowl is down to primer
needs to be painted
it has not faded,cracked or peeled
it wasn't an exact match for the truck as its 32 years old
but no one has ever mentioned the slight mismatch
the dirt hides it
tom
 

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Can't you rent a sprayer, preferably an HVLP? If not, I've used the Rustoleum that supposedly has double the coverage, and it works pretty well on furniture, but I've never used it on anything else. What I have found is that you can't recoat after an hour or so without getting really bad lifting and crazing. You have to wait a couple of days to do touchups or you end up having to sand down to the original surface.
 
Find a good auto parts store ( not Auto Zone or VIP or places like that ) that sell paint to auto body folks. They should have good auto body paint in rattle cans and/or will be able to mix colors for you and put them in cans. I did my wheels that way and had good luck.
 
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