Rattle can painting trick

John Duden

John Duden

Well-known member
Talking to an old timer I found this trick of rattle can painting. I was skeptical at first but I triedit last night and it worked great. Take your part to be painted and set it in a warm room. Take a hand held propane torch and set it half flame. Shake the paint can then hold the bottom of the can over the flame 10 seconds and then remove and shake well. Repeat 3 or 4 times until you can feel the paint inside start to get warm. SHAKE WELL.
When it sprayed it will cover and flow out on the parts better. It will become smooth at glass if done right, and will have a good amount of shine.
 
The heat part I can see. Although I might want to experiment a bit before committing a part to this.

The torch part I wonder.

One of my life's memorable experiences is hiking as a Boy Scout at Philmont Scout Ranch in New Mexico.

We were coached ahead of time about the heat (114F or more with 10 percent relative humidity) but particularly about the hazard of "aerosol" cans. We were advised not to bring - or if bring we must to have the can less than half full. This because of the heat expanding the contents - and exploding the can in one's pack.

A sure way to ruin what otherwise should be a pleasurable (heh) 10 days on the trail.

Maybe use partly depleted cans and put the lower end into boiling or hot water?

Thanks for the thought though. Anything to improve rattle can paint quality.

IMHO rattle can paint quality is not what it used to be.

Joe K
 
I did a similar thing that I thought helped. I placed the part to be painted in the oven at 200 degrees. Then pulled the part out and painted it. The painted seemed glossier and was less apt to run. But maybe not... I might be imagining things. Could be safer than igniting a rattle can with a torch. :)
 
If the can was boiled, I would be worried about the whole can expanding. The fire on the bottom gets heat directly from the metal to the paint.
 
Heating the part you are spraying does help everything to flow out. On chassis stuff, tools, fasteners, and other things subject to abuse I heat the painted part, which produces a much tougher finish.
I've been told that about 200 degrees is about right, bu I just balance stuff on top of a nearly horizontal section of the exhaust from my gas water heater and leave it there for a while.
In summer, leaving parts lying in the sun where they get too hot to touch toughens the paint substantially.
 
A very handy man I worked with years ago held a torch to an aerosol can to heat the contents. It blew and severed some cords in a couple of fingers. When he returned to work we were told (a) not to ask him about it and (b) that he knew he shouldn't have done it. Personally, I would heat the part someway but let the paint warm in a different manner.
 
My body shop manager always stay the rattle can in vert warm water and then shook the heck ot of it. It certainly made a difference. I myself would be hesitant to use a torch. Wayne
 
I've heated cold parts with my Milwaukee heat gun and warmed cool cans of paint in hot water. Never warm parts over a flame because the flame will make water condense on the part.

BTW, when I was in high school I put an empty spray paint can in the burn barrel. The explosion blew the can 30 feet in the air and layed the metal out like a sheet of paper. The explosion also put out the fire in the barrel.

Spray paint isn't near as good as when it had lead in it.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
I've heated cold parts with my Milwaukee heat gun and warmed cool cans of paint in hot water. Never warm parts over a flame because the flame will make water condense on the part.

BTW, when I was in high school I put an empty spray paint can in the burn barrel. The explosion blew the can 30 feet in the air and layed the metal out like a sheet of paper. The explosion also put out the fire in the barrel.

Spray paint isn't near as good as when it had lead in it.
Click to expand...

I was burning garbage and there was old paint cans in it so as I would through them I would pick them off with my .22, well I found one that stil had some paint in it:D. It gave a heck of a show!
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
I've heated cold parts with my Milwaukee heat gun and warmed cool cans of paint in hot water. Never warm parts over a flame because the flame will make water condense on the part.

BTW, when I was in high school I put an empty spray paint can in the burn barrel. The explosion blew the can 30 feet in the air and layed the metal out like a sheet of paper. The explosion also put out the fire in the barrel.

Spray paint isn't near as good as when it had lead in it.
Click to expand...

Hey Tom,
Hm, so what does this tell a person...about putting a 'flame/torch' to such a can...yikes ! In socal, no worry about parts heating up in sun. But, even if it didn't work this way, there are plenty 'accidents' abounding without creating such !

This reminds me of a young guy who 'wanted to know' what would happen when he used a nail/hammer and taped the cut off high brass end of a .12 shotgun shell :eek:! Last thing that he heard for awhile...'don't do that' ! IMO, could have been worse than the missing finger/thumb parts.

BYW...ever READ the labels on spray paint cans :rolleyes:
 
NEVER heat a spray can. I set a spray can on top of my warm model A radiator while touch-up painting a metallic brown Ford Maverick parked nearby. When the can exploded a few minutes later I had metallic brown paint splattered over the Model A engine as the Model A hood was off the car. I also had metallic brown paint all over the radiator, fenders, garage walls and all over myself...Never did that again.
Read and follow directions and all precautions.. This "trick" is a really bad idea.
 
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Don't open a spray can. A kid used a electric can opener to open one to get the rest of the paint out. The can exploded, there was a pressure change in the room and a exterior wall was bowed out.
 
That's a old paint trick from the 50's. The painters use to heat Automotive enamel in a double boiler and get it hot and then spray a full wet coat. Done!! Two ways to reduce paint products. Reducer or heat. So that's why it flows out. I'd stay away from the torch idea. Go for Hot Water.

The Old Tinbasher.
 
In my plastic model days I would warm the paint by setting it in a pan of warm water from the tap. Flame and aerosol cans has more risks than I'm willing to take.
 
John Duden said:
Talking to an old timer I found this trick of rattle can painting. I was skeptical at first but I triedit last night and it worked great. Take your part to be painted and set it in a warm room. Take a hand held propane torch and set it half flame. Shake the paint can then hold the bottom of the can over the flame 10 seconds and then remove and shake well. Repeat 3 or 4 times until you can feel the paint inside start to get warm. SHAKE WELL.
When it sprayed it will cover and flow out on the parts better. It will become smooth at glass if done right, and will have a good amount of shine.
Click to expand...

Sounds like someone is trying to prove Darwin's theory.

Ian
 
I do not trust quality of rattle can paints,very poor quality and ultra violet resistance.I painted part of a car with green ,one month the green was brown..junk at best.
 
Look at the op. Take a hand held propane torch and set it half flame. Shake the paint can then hold the bottom of the can over the flame 10 seconds and then remove and shake well. Repeat 3 or 4 times until you can feel the paint inside start to get warm. SHAKE WELL. No danger of blowing up if you use a little sense. He didn't say "Blast it with a cutting torch until its red hot"
 
eagle said:
Look at the op. Take a hand held propane torch and set it half flame. Shake the paint can then hold the bottom of the can over the flame 10 seconds and then remove and shake well. Repeat 3 or 4 times until you can feel the paint inside start to get warm. SHAKE WELL. No danger of blowing up if you use a little sense. He didn't say "Blast it with a cutting torch until its red hot"
Click to expand...

Agreed, but I also think the hot water trick would still be safer and do the same thing.
 
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