Rare '40 convertible restoration project

Here's some "after" photos...
 

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Thanks for the write-up, Mike. Tell me, what sort of material are the covers made from, and how do you apply it?

Mart.
 
Hey guys! Well, I'm finally back at this project. Between the holiday's and health issues it's been a tough recent past.
Anyway, I managed to get the frame done and have started to assemble it. I typically have all of the subassemblies done and ready to install so this process goes rather quickly.
 

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I'm also back at the (main) body. The inside of this is already painted. The outside, sans the bottom, has the guide coat applied. The bottom, as can be seen here, needs little to bring it to the same point. I'm hoping I can get this painted within the next few weeks.
 

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Thanks for the write-up, Mike. Tell me, what sort of material are the covers made from, and how do you apply it?

Mart.

Hi ya Mart,
See post #100 for a fairly thorough explanation of how I install these covers. As original, they are simply galvanized sheet metal.
These reproductions have been duplicated (exactly) from original sets.
The first time I'd installed a set it took me better than two hours. I can now do a set in about 1/2 hour.
I've learned a few tricks though past trials and tribulations :)
 
Kube, Beautiful work! My question is in regards to the frame vs the body. I have tinkered with replacing sheet metal panels over the years, but it escapes me on how you would restore 10 guage steel frame rails. This era Ford frame is notorious for having rust between the riveted rails especially in the "S" bend at the rear of the frame. I saw your beginning photos so I am sure there was some rust. Do you remove all the rivets and reassemble the frame? What paint do you use to paint your frames?
 
Kube, Beautiful work! My question is in regards to the frame vs the body. I have tinkered with replacing sheet metal panels over the years, but it escapes me on how you would restore 10 guage steel frame rails. This era Ford frame is notorious for having rust between the riveted rails especially in the "S" bend at the rear of the frame. I saw your beginning photos so I am sure there was some rust. Do you remove all the rivets and reassemble the frame? What paint do you use to paint your frames?

This particular frame had rot directly beneath the battery box. After cutting back to solid metal and removing any necessary rivets, I butt weld in a piece of steel of the exact same thickness of the adjoining frame area.

I did have to replace a piece in that "S" bend you'd referred to a past restoration. I use the same method as anywhere else on a frame - cut out the offending area, remove rivets as necessary and butt weld in steel of the same thickness. This area is difficult to do as you know.

I use single stage paint on the frames for the finish coat. For the prep, etching primer and primer (of course) followed by (too) many hours of wet sanding.
 
You make it sound so easy!!!! But how do you get the round bend at the top and bottom of the frame rail. These were pressed by Ford on huge presses, this is the area that's not often duplicated by the aftermarket frame guys. Who just three pieces of steel to form the "C" channel. And although they look pretty flat and straight from a side profile, there more than a few curves and bends pressed into the frame rails..
 
Kube, the chassis and underfloor pics look fantastic.

Kube, If I post any pics, please don't look at 'em, might put you off your lunch.

Re the curve on the edge of the frame, when I did a similar job I cut the patch piece from a piece of square tube and used the curved edge to simulate the curve on the frame rail. I used about 1/2" of the one side and made the join that far down the side. I imagine Mike does it a lot tidier, though.

Mart.
 
You make it sound so easy!!!! But how do you get the round bend at the top and bottom of the frame rail. These were pressed by Ford on huge presses, this is the area that's not often duplicated by the aftermarket frame guys. Who just three pieces of steel to form the "C" channel. And although they look pretty flat and straight from a side profile, there more than a few curves and bends pressed into the frame rails..

Being a retired tool & die maker has its advantages :)
 
Kube
You remind me of my neighbor, He was a GS-14 machinist at the local Navel Refit Facility....he was having a garage/shop built at his house and it was driving him nuts from the foundation to the framers to the trim carpenter how "cavalier" they were being a 1/16th to 1/8 off!!!! Nuts I tell you, drove him nuts!!!! My other buddy who is a "professional" model builder (or at least that's what I call him, he actually does it for fun) he has spent 100 hours on a paint job on a 1/24th model. My best friend said he can "pick fly crap outta pepper".......I showed him your work and He said to tell you the first step to recovery is recognition!!! He loved your work by the way....I will have to post a few of his models he builds, like your work...phenomenal!!!!!
 
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Kube
You remind me of my neighbor, He was a GS-14 machinist at the local Navel Refit Facility....he was having a garage/shop built at his house and it was driving him nuts from the foundation to the framers to the trim carpenter how "cavalier" they were being a 1/16th to 1/8 off!!!! Nuts I tell you, drove him nuts!!!! My other buddy who is a "professional" model builder (or at least that's what I call him, he actually does it for fun) he has spent 100 hours on a paint job on a 1/24th model. My best friend said he can "pick fly crap outta pepper".......I showed him your work and He said to tell you the first step to recovery is recognition!!! He loved your work by the way....I will have to post a few of his models he builds, like your work...phenomenal!!!!!

Every time I start to believe I am truly crazy, I hear about a guy like your best friend and think "now that guy is crazy"!
As long as there are guys spending a 100 hours on a 1/24th model kit paint job, "I'm okay".

When I built my last home, I was a lot of "hands on" and like your neighbor, I was insistent that the house be "true". Let me tell ya, it was...

In all seriousness, this retentiveness is not what some might think is such a good thing. The drive to perfection has an impossible arrival point. There simply is no such thing as "perfection". Still, I'll keep chasing it :)

Thanks for your kind words!
 
If your happy with something, most of us here know it's got to be pretty damn close to as good as it gets. Not a thing wrong with that as long as your OK with it. That's going to be one damn fine car when you're as close to done as you care to get. The rest of us will just drool a bit with a look of awe. It's rare to see them so close to factory show room fresh.
 
Mike,
Looks great! You get a big thumbs up from the hillbilly here in TN (me). I admire the attention to the details.

Question.... Typically when you do a 1940 do you prefer to install the steering gear before or after the body is set?
 
Mike,
Looks great! You get a big thumbs up from the hillbilly here in TN (me). I admire the attention to the details.

Question.... Typically when you do a 1940 do you prefer to install the steering gear before or after the body is set?

Mike,
Thanks for the kind words.

I install the gear prior to the body drop. Makes my life so much easier. I don't tighten the gear to the frame until the instrument panel is completely installed.
 
Got the bottom of the floor primed today. I hope to have it painted in the next few days.
 

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