Rare '40 convertible restoration project
- Thread starter Kube
- Start date
Bored&Stroked
Well-known member
Great work as always Kube - I just enjoy your posts and the quality of your work. You obviously have a bit of OCD tendencies like me! LOL
Kube
Super Moderator
Well, the inside of the body got painted the other day. Almost a shame to be covering it up later on. I will install Acoustashield® in the inner body in all areas that won't show - quarters, cowl, doors. Although this car is unlikely to see many road miles, the added insulation makes the car seem more "solid" and just in case this car ever does turn in to a daily driver, the insulation will most certainly quiet the interior down a bit.
Next? I'm already working on the frame. Once that's painted (soon I hope) I will assemble the chassis. I have ALL of the pieces for the chassis rebuilt / refinished and as such, ready to install.
Next? I'm already working on the frame. Once that's painted (soon I hope) I will assemble the chassis. I have ALL of the pieces for the chassis rebuilt / refinished and as such, ready to install.
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Kube
Super Moderator
Ken, I am quite certain a number of jigs would have been used to quickly locate respective body panels for welding. No doubt the jigs would have been designed to install and remove as quickly as possible as these were "low end" vehicles and speed / efficiency of the build process would have been important.
"Production gaps" between doors, cowl / quarters were often not very even but certainly "good enough" for a high volume production setting.
My fixture is quite time consuming to install. However, it's necessary (in my opinion) as I am building these cars to a degree of perfection not considered in 1940.
This particular build the body had been bolted directly to the frame (no shims / no pads) when I was getting the gaps as perfect as I'm able. When the body is finally assembled "permanently", it'll be easy to repeat the gaps with the addition of the factory body to frame pads.
Kube
Super Moderator
There are two others as sick as me? You would be one no doubt. Who's the third poor soul?
Milt/Las Vegas
Senior Member
My jig is less involved.It has 6 mounting locations to keep the body from spreading,2 at both sides of the cowl,2 on both sides behind the doors,and 2 by the trunk hinges.It has a cross plate with cheese holes so you can attach a cherry picker.Who ever buys my 40 conv. basket case will undoubtly want the jig.
Milt/Las Vegas
Senior Member
I'd send pics,but don't know how to submit them.
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
SOMEWHERE, some time back, I heard or read that the paint and finish on the inside of the dash (firewall) and behind the instrument panel on that blue '40 coupe in your avatar is every bit as nice as the paint and finish on the outside of the car. Can't be true, no? DD
Kube
Super Moderator
You my friend have a fantastic memory. I went crazy on that restoration and yes, I wet sanded the entire inside (body).
So go ahead... laugh
Kube
Super Moderator
Kube
Super Moderator
On a serious note Dave, I can't imagine doing a full and proper restoration without making the inside (body) as nice as the outside.
Kube
Super Moderator
Yep, I'm still at it. The last three months of each year requires me to be out of my shop much of the time. Still, I manage when I can to "hide" in there.
I've managed to get a number of small pieces refinished. Things like hood supports, trunk supports, grille louvers, etc.
I have the grille nearly assembled. Cost a small fortune to get the center sections plated. I had a pair of NOS but they were a bit pitted - not worthy of this restoration in my opinion.
My most recent accomplishment is restoring the springs. I always start with NOS as they restore the proper ride height as well as the engineered handling characteristics.
I disassemble the NOS springs and glass bead each individual leaf. I then have each individual leaf powder finished.
I install NOS perch pins as I have found the repops to be of poor quality. The Ford pins are between .004" + .007" oversize and as such require a special tool to install them properly. Without that somewhat extreme press fit, the spring will not rebound as engineered.
I apply a bit of grease to the ends of each leaf when reassembling them. Once assembled the difficult process begins. That's installing restored covers.
As many no doubt realize the covers were "stock" on all 1940 Ford Deluxe models.
Installing these covers requires the spring assembly to be flat.
I've attached a few "before" photos for those so interested in this process.
I've managed to get a number of small pieces refinished. Things like hood supports, trunk supports, grille louvers, etc.
I have the grille nearly assembled. Cost a small fortune to get the center sections plated. I had a pair of NOS but they were a bit pitted - not worthy of this restoration in my opinion.
My most recent accomplishment is restoring the springs. I always start with NOS as they restore the proper ride height as well as the engineered handling characteristics.
I disassemble the NOS springs and glass bead each individual leaf. I then have each individual leaf powder finished.
I install NOS perch pins as I have found the repops to be of poor quality. The Ford pins are between .004" + .007" oversize and as such require a special tool to install them properly. Without that somewhat extreme press fit, the spring will not rebound as engineered.
I apply a bit of grease to the ends of each leaf when reassembling them. Once assembled the difficult process begins. That's installing restored covers.
As many no doubt realize the covers were "stock" on all 1940 Ford Deluxe models.
Installing these covers requires the spring assembly to be flat.
I've attached a few "before" photos for those so interested in this process.
Attachments
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