Radius Ball Felt

Dick Deegan

Dick Deegan

Well-known member
Good Morning All;

This may seem like a stupid question, but here it is!!

How is the thick felt positioned above the radius ball in the bell housing? Does it go above the crosswise pin holding the two special bolts or below it? If it goes below it the felt is thick enough that it will bend the pin upwards allowing the special bolts to slip on the pin.

Does the felt go side to side or back to front?

Dick
 
Dick, I had the same problem last year. My solution may not be correct, but it worked for me. I forced the pin through the felt lengthwise since I did not want to bend the pin and putting the felt on top was pointless since it would just bounce away and not do the job it was intended to do.
 
I guess I missed the felt.

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Felt is inserted from the bottom and bends up above the pin. The two ends of the felt hold it in place.
 
My daughter and I came up with an easy (easier) solution to this problem without removing the clutch housing.

Keep in mind that this entire process is MUCH easier with the clutch housing off the car.

The long retaining pin holds the bolts in place with the felt BETWEEN the heads of the bolts. The retaining pin goes over the felt.

Using a razor knife, cut a notch about 1/4" deep in the felt lengthwise. This allows the retaining pin to recess into the felt and prevents bending.
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Put the long pin through the housing WITHOUT any of the parts in place.

Tie a thin mono-filament fishing line through the hole in the end of the retaining pin. Pull the retaining pin out and the mono-filament line with it; this will serve as a guide line to get the pin back through!

Put the bolts into the holes (we found that an extended magnetic wand worked great and allowed us to put the bolts in from the access panel on the top of the housing.)

Insert the felt (slit side up) between the bolts.

Pull the mono-filament line tight and gradually work the retaining pin through. We have been able to do this quite efficiently now.
 
Mike;

Thanks for the input. That is also a good idea. I don't have the clutch housing off the car, so I am doing everything underneath, but I can do what you suggested.

Thanks again.

Dick
 
I understand the felt retains lubricant for the radius ball, but how does lubricant get to the felt? Nothing on the lubrication charts mentions lubricating the ball. Do I just soak the felt when assembling the engine to the transmission or does the transmission "leak" or "sling" 600W while running?

Andrew
 
specializedaggie06 said:
I understand the felt retains lubricant for the radius ball, but how does lubricant get to the felt? Nothing on the lubrication charts mentions lubricating the ball. Do I just soak the felt when assembling the engine to the transmission or does the transmission "leak" or "sling" 600W while running?

Andrew
Click to expand...

trans lube leaks out of the shift rail bores and some gets past the front main shaft bearing. If the rear engine main bearing is really leaking bad, some of that gets over to the felt as well, after being slung around the flywheel housing by the spinning flywheel. If your car has modern sealed bearings in the ****** and a good rear main seal, as well as the "real deal transmission seal" it would be a good idea to remove the radius ball cups occasionally and apply some grease to the ball and cups.
 
Speaking of the shift rail bores, Mitchell manufactures a seal/plug for that. I think it's in the neighborhood of thirty-seven bucks. Not a shameless plug, as my ****** still lives on the barn floor. Just curious, seems like a relatively good idea.
 
I tried the method of pushing the rod through the felt -- it sounded like a good idea at the time but the "A" came home on the trailer. The top half of the felt came off after about a year and eventually wound it's way around the bendix, it locked the starter and flywheel up so tight I thought the engine seized. Oh, and don't worry there will be enough lubrication to go around; my father told me when I was about 13 "If your Model A isn't leaking something you'd better stop and top everything off." The Model A is a very simple tool but they remind me of an old girlfriend; she might be the best looking one in town but you can still find yourself standing by the side of the road from time to time. Regards, E LaBrash
 
I just folded mine into a V shape then stuffed it into the hole with the ends on either side of the pin. The apex of the V protruding out of the hole making contact with the top of the cup.
It seemed pretty tightly wedged in there and I hope it stays put.
 
Brubaker said:
Speaking of the shift rail bores, Mitchell manufactures a seal/plug for that. I think it's in the neighborhood of thirty-seven bucks. Not a shameless plug, as my ****** still lives on the barn floor. Just curious, seems like a relatively good idea.
Click to expand...

Mike's has plugs for about $10.00 a pair (old catalog) #A7202. Easier to install.
 
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