hotstuff1143
Junior Member
Has anyone here ever try the us Radiator All aluminum radiator for a 1935 ford with a stock engine ?
radiators
- Thread starter hotstuff1143
- Start date
aussie merc
Well-known member
alloy or brass it dosent matter good designs work well poor designs dont flatheads require large top tanks to act as headers and lots of airflow helps
38 coupe
Well-known member
Aluminum radiator quality and design varies considerably. If the manufacturer is used to making radiators for hot rods with OHV V8s the end result in front of a flathead usually isn't great. I have seen aluminum radiators that didn't work in front of flatheads, and aluminum radiators that worked great in front of flatheads. All looked wrong to me, but they weren't in my car.
51504bat
Well-known member
Attachments
petehoovie
Well-known member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robz51
I have one in my 51 Ford. It's 25 years old and still works great and It's not aluminum. I don't care what the claims are, an aluminum radiator dossn't look right under the hood of an old car! That's my opinion of course.
Sent from my SM-S901U1 using Tapatalk
Originally Posted by Robz51
I have one in my 51 Ford. It's 25 years old and still works great and It's not aluminum. I don't care what the claims are, an aluminum radiator dossn't look right under the hood of an old car! That's my opinion of course.
Sent from my SM-S901U1 using Tapatalk
Karl Wescott
Well-known member
A bunch of factors to consider in selecting a radiator.
1. Corrosion. Iron has an electropotential of 0.441v, copper -0.345v, aluminum 1.300v. The bigger the difference (iron/copper .786v, iron/aluminum .859v) the more likely for corrosion. The key here is to use a proper anti-corrosion antifreeze.
2. Core Support. Ford radiators of the 1932-1939 era had a steel support structure which supported the grille and hood and fenders to some degree. If the radiator manufacturer cheats the radiator will break. The manufactures of the cheap aluminum radiators do not seem to understand or care.
3. As noted by Aussie Merc the stock radiators had a large upper tank which received any overflow and acted as an air baffle. If an aftermarket radiator does not have these an overflow tank and possibly an air baffle will need to be installed.
Regardless, with the right structural engineering, right coolant, and right recovery system either aluminum or copper should work. with the wrong... failure.
1. Corrosion. Iron has an electropotential of 0.441v, copper -0.345v, aluminum 1.300v. The bigger the difference (iron/copper .786v, iron/aluminum .859v) the more likely for corrosion. The key here is to use a proper anti-corrosion antifreeze.
2. Core Support. Ford radiators of the 1932-1939 era had a steel support structure which supported the grille and hood and fenders to some degree. If the radiator manufacturer cheats the radiator will break. The manufactures of the cheap aluminum radiators do not seem to understand or care.
3. As noted by Aussie Merc the stock radiators had a large upper tank which received any overflow and acted as an air baffle. If an aftermarket radiator does not have these an overflow tank and possibly an air baffle will need to be installed.
Regardless, with the right structural engineering, right coolant, and right recovery system either aluminum or copper should work. with the wrong... failure.
hotstuff1143
Junior Member
whos radiator is it
aussie merc
Well-known member
there is one mob down here called aussie desert coolers that work well but there are plenty that dont work with flatheads the need someone that understands their quirks