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john charlebois

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Our '30 radiator was delivered to the radiator shop to test it before we installed it on our pickup project. It appeared to be "very good" condition with fins nearly perfect. The truck had been disassembled and barn stored for many years. The radiator shop notified me that the inside had mice nests and they were unable to get water to drain through properly and that it was of no use.
We are hoping to find a way to safe this radiator. Any ideas??
 
Friend, "Tux-Dennis" bought a Model A with NO upper radumator hose & the WHOLE block, head & EVERYTHING, was stuffed with COTTON, from an Old Garage Couch!!! +*@%#%^%%=+=* NLOL---
If it were my radiator, I'd consider submerging it in LYE & WATER.
Bill Upearlyandsick
 
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You could have the rad rodded. It is very labour intensive. By the time you have it done, it may be just as cheap as having it recored. I had an excellent looking rad that was sent out to be flushed last year ( mice) I installed this rad on an untested engine only find that I buggered up a good used engine by overheating it, the the mice had done more damage and plugged up more then the rad shop knew initially. I had to have it reflushed by their most experienced guy. The rad is better, but I think I'll go new next time. Good luck. Jeff
 
I was able to save an old radiator by cutting two windows in the top tank and rodded out most of the tubes, bent the windows back in place and took it to a shop and had them solder up the windows and any leaks I caused. I flow tested it and it is on my car. I did a video on this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I0O4VmLfo7I&t=25s&list=PLhL36Rc6o5MI5gsZreCrIa0r_fFQcz4R0&index=20
If that won't play, just search youtube for "Cleaning out an old Model A radiator".
Very crude, but it worked and I would do it again.
 
Lye or draino will eat it out. You may need to do it twice if really bad. Don't leave in for more than 20 min. Wear protective eyewear and clothing. back flush out well with water/short air blasts. Will be like new inside
 
Take the radiator and trace it on a sheet of mdf. Now cut it out and mount it on another sheet of mdf. Remove the tanks with a propane torch and clean it out yourself. Remember that the bottom tank is rivited to the the strap.

Once clean, place the tanks on the core and place on the form you made from the mdf. This way the tanks and strap will be in the same place as when you started. From here you can tack solder it and have the radiator shop complete the soldering or do it your self. My son at 17 did this with a new core and it worked great. The radiator shop only found one small leak. You have nothing to lose.
 
Radiators are “very important”. Why take a chance? Put in a new correct radiator.

While at it, what does your water pump look like, and your fan?

Radiators, brakes, front ends, springs, shocks, tires. There are some things that just should be working 100% correctly. Enjoy.
 
A REAL radiator shop would have cleaned your nests out and given it back to you, NO big deal.
 
This is what I did to mine and am running it on my Speedster! The flat stock in the one picture is what I used also a piece of round 1/8"
 

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I like Tom W's idea of using a sump pump for backflushing, lots of flow and little pressure.
 
sounds like its dry. I would take a shop vac and see what you can get out of it. you can duct tape a garden hose into your vacuum to neck it down and get in there.

I used the hose trick to get mice out of a heater box in a truck I have. Then used the hose to spray some de stink in there.
 
The mass of an original radiator is apparent when you compare the weight to a newer reproduction. I would go as far as I could if I had and original dimpled fin radiator. I have chased the demon of bad radiators and I can attest that it is hard to beat a good original radiator.
 
Rodding out a radiator used to be common. It is NOT labor intensive. I had one done, years ago. The guy wasn't busy, so he did it while I waited and watched. He removed the tanks in about 3 minutes, spent 5 or 10 minutes rodding out the tubes and another 8 or 10 minutes resoldering and checking it for leaks. As others have pointed out, find real radiator shop. There are a few left
 
noboD said:
A REAL radiator shop would have cleaned your nests out and given it back to you, NO big deal.
Click to expand...

I agree. This place sounds more like a middle man to take your money.

I back flushed my original 28 radiator and block, and they are doing fine. As suggested, start with the shop vac.
 

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Years ago I did the rodding out on an early V8 radiator. Wasn't hard to do. I used an oil dipstick from a Ford Van, cut it to length and went to work. It fit the tubes real well
 
The best answer comes form both coasts.
Listen to RonC from RI and Bill Williamson from CA!

The problem is organic stuff not rust.
Just use a good acid that attacks organics and not metal.

My radiator was filled with mouse nests, acorns, and sunflower seeds.
I did a lot of flushing then a couple rounds of oxalic acid (wood bleach) some more flushing and it came clean.

Lye, Drain-o, Down the Drain, etc will also work.
Just don't tell your wife that you stole it for your projects
 
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