Radiator repair

RCM

RCM

Senior Member
Hey there guys.
I've been a bit absent, doing field work on pre-industrial olive oil sites.
Came back yesterday.
I've got a couple of leaks around the top of the radiator's "head", on a top edge, not the core.
One is like a small pinhole. The other is a small 6mm crack on that edge.
How have you fixed these kind of problems?
Some kind of epoxy JB weld something?
What kind of weld?
Didnt wat to pull the whole thing apart to take to the shop for a proper fix just yet.
Regards
 
If you mean that the solder joint on the tank is separating, it can be re-soldered in place. Clean off the paint, drain the coolant to well bellow the joint, and just solder and repaint/refill. If you are a bit leerry of the joint all the way around, re-solder the whole thing. If the car is the '55/'56 shown in your avatar, it is easy to get to with no dis-assembly.
 
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That is right, you will need a small brush, solder, flux, a rag, and a propane torch. Its easy once you get the hang of it.
 
Thanks for the input guys, I appreciate it.
I have tryed over and over again yesterday to do the job.
I can get it good soldering a clean piece of metal on the bench, but while at the radiator, applying the solder vertically, I found it really hard. Couldnt do it. The molten metal just drips off to the gravel panel...
Tips?
Regards
 

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What kind of solder do you have? The acid core plumbers solder will do better in a dirty application. Your going to have to get it real clean to ever get it to solder right.
 
Yup edwards, its the acid core solder.
I'll have to pull the radiator in order to get it right i see... dang.
Thanks
 
get a bottle of liquid or paste soldering flux and a stainless steel brush , pour a little flux or paste on the leak and then brush the seam real good, fluxed solder doesn't work good on bigger repairs, that flux seems to get hot and turn black and mess up the clean repair spot, radiator shops don't use fluxed solder, use the solid solder, don't get the repair spot to hot, just hot enough to melt the solder, heat the repair , brush on liquid flux and put solder on the repair, don't put heat on solder, just on the repair, if the repair is hot enough the solder will melt and flow
 
Thanks west coast. The faults you describe are just the things happening to me. Melt and flow... This weekend I'll possibly pull the radiator and try to fix it on the bench. I'll take it to the shop if it goes bad.
Regards.
 
RCM.....don't give up on the job ! Heed Westcoast's advice. The problem you're experiencing is that the radiator is absorbing the heat. Once you have it hot enough the solder will flow and the repair will be a success.

Failing that; "liquid metal" such as JB weld will provide a more than adequate repair.

Should you decide to remove the radiator, give it to a specialist who can pressure test it and do a professional job
 
Thanks guys.. Tiger..
Well I guess I did it, I soldered it. Dont know how it will come out, wheter the problem is fixed or not, but I gotta tell you I had a lot of fun soldering. There were 3 leak spots which I think I fixed. I then plugged everything, put it to pressure with the air compressor and tested the leak areas with water and soap. One made bubbles (water and soap test works) so I re-soldered with no further bubbling.
Then I lightly sanded the whole radiator, pressure tested every part again, degreased and painted.
It is mounted but only later will I test it.
Soldering stuff is cool!
Thanks for helping. I'll let you know how it came out.
Regards.
 

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The leaks are sealed solid Steve. All good. Thanks for asking. BTW all good with you?
JAKE, I tried JB weld on all three of the small cracks, and only one of them sealed, the smallest one. All of them held for a couple of days but went back to leaking just as bad. BTW, its the "steel" JB, dont know the correct term.
Regards
 
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