Radiator Recovery Tank....

1

1936 ford pickup

Senior Member
Hello,

Just wondering if any of you guys use the Radiator Recovery Tank for your flatheads.

I currently have just the overflow tube.

Someone mentioned that I should have it but Ford did not use them (as I know of) in 1936.

Bruce
 
Hi Bruce.. we have a '36 PU with a 59AB flattie and are not running a coolant receptacle bottle. The truck never runs hot.....

Purrs like a little kitty:)
 
1936 ford pickup said:
Hello,

Just wondering if any of you guys use the Radiator Recovery Tank for your flatheads.

I currently have just the overflow tube.

Someone mentioned that I should have it but Ford did not use them (as I know of) in 1936.

Bruce
Click to expand...

I have used an "overflow" tank to catch excess coolant on my flathead, but removed it since its not needed it if the radiator is filled to the correct level. Like most old cars with low pressure cooling systems, they will adjust the coolant level themselves by spitting out the excess coolant until it reaches its proper operating level.
 
Your radiator has a built-in expansion tank, above the radiator fin-tubes. A second, redundant expansion tank/recovery tank serves no purpose. Does nothing to help the cooling system.

A bottle riding along side the radiator only serves to catch any over-flow. As said above, over-flow should only occur the first couple drives after filling, until the system finds its own level.
 
I think the points here are if:


1. You are using a stock radiator with stock (huge) upper tank and stock (0 psi) radiator cap you do not need an overflow tank as the stock radiator has enough capacity to accommodate any expansion. Note that "full" when cold should have coolant just above the radiator tubes, not all the way to the top.


2. You have an aftermarket radiator with a small upper tank (normal late model) and a pressurized (7 lbs +) system. You will likely find a recovery tank helpful as the smaller tank does not have the capacity for hot coolant. Note that the recovery tank will not work if you have any air leaks in the system as you will just pull air into the system instead of coolant when vacuum is created from normal cool down.
 
Hi Karl,

I have a '36 Ford 1/2 ton pickup with the "stock" radiator (huge upper tank) except for someone had modified the filler tube for a pressurized system to accept the 7 psi radiator cap. I have just had this radiator re-cored.

Bruce
 
Did your radiator shop agree that a 7 lb. pressure cap was acceptable for the radiator? That seems to be a lot of pressure for that large top tank, you might reduce it down to a 4 lb. cap to be on the safe side.

The boiling point of plain water with a 4 psi cap is around 225 degrees F while the boiling point with a 7 psi cap is around 231 degrees F. For a 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol the numbers are around 236 F for the 4 psi cap and 243 F for the 7 psi cap. (source LS1tech.com antifreeze boiling)
 
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Hi Zeke3,

Yes the radiator shop said it should be no problem with the 7 psi cap.
I had been running the 7 psi cap for about 4 years until I sprung a radiator leak around the top tank and a couple of tubes.

I can change it out to 4 psi cap if that is better.

Bruce
 
My 0.02 Why I have an overflow tank and a 7 lb cap
I’ve ran this setup for 20+ years. I didn’t want any air in the system. And an extra quart or 2 of fluid of choice sure can’t hurt.
 
Gene1949 said:
My 0.02 Why I have an overflow tank and a 7 lb cap
I’ve ran this setup for 20+ years. I didn’t want any air in the system. And an extra quart or 2 of fluid of choice sure can’t hurt.
Click to expand...
Something to think about. Might help on those hot days when the 4 pound cap and tank partially full are running a little warm.
 
1936 ford pickup said:
Hi Zeke3,

Yes the radiator shop said it should be no problem with the 7 psi cap.
I had been running the 7 psi cap for about 4 years until I sprung a radiator leak around the top tank and a couple of tubes.

I can change it out to 4 psi cap if that is better.

Bruce
Click to expand...

The large expanse of the top tank on the '36 makes it particularly vulnerable to oil-canning under excessive pressure. This is the cause of leaks at the soldered joints, which can be prevented by installing an inner brace web soldered within the tank while disassembled for recoring.
 
My stock '47 cooling system uses a 4 lb cap. As said, if properly filled, i.e. 2 inches below top of fill collar generally recommended, it does not need an overflow.
 
Gene1949 said:
My 0.02 Why I have an overflow tank and a 7 lb cap
I’ve ran this setup for 20+ years. I didn’t want any air in the system. And an extra quart or 2 of fluid of choice sure can’t hurt.
Click to expand...
When up to temp, isn’t that extra quart or two just riding in the side tank, not helping anything?
And isn’t the side tank mostly filled with air when cool, so fluid gets exposed to air when pushed into the side tank?
 
If your cooling system is clean and in good shape you shouild not need a catch can. As mentioned radiator will seek it"s level and stay there.

I do not use one on my pressurized AV8 roadster or non pressurized model A.
Never have to check coolant level, never overheat.

John
 
I would definitely recommend a 4lb cap. The tanks were not designed for pressure. I had to repair the top tank on my 41 pickup. The tank had ballooned. The tanks don't burst as such, but they develop fatigue cracks. You have to imagine every time you run the car and get up to pressure it expands the tank. Then when it cools down it goes back to normal. Repeat that a few thousand times and the joints begin to fail.
I repaired my 41 tank by drilling through and soldering in brass ties front to back. I then found my "4lb" cap was in fact about 8lb. A new old stock replacement 4lb cap did the trick and no problems since. I run an overflow tank on my 32 Sedan as I did have some problems. A new thermostat and head gaskets sorted that one out and I could probably do without it.

I had a video showing the repair. If I can find it I will add a link.
 
Hi Mart,

THANK YOU and everyone else for your thoughts and replies back about the radiator recovery tank and radiator cap. I am getting educated on this and here is what I am going to do. Use 180 Thermostats, switch from 7 pound down to 4 pound radiator cap and try with no radiator recovery tank.

I can always add the radiator recovery tank if needed.

Bruce
 
Hi Mart,

Thanks for the video, I watched and it was interesting (like all your videos are).

QUESTION....is there an advantage of the 160 thermostats versus 180 thermostats.

I live in Central Ca. and drive my '36 pickup mostly in the Spring and Summer months where the temperatures are between 70 degrees and 100 degrees.

I have both 160 and 180 degree thermostats and will be installing one or the other this Spring.

Bruce
 
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