Radiator questions ...

As a suggestion, take some good pictures of your radiator, top tanks, side sheet metal, etc.. This will help us tell you what we think you have (original or repop). You should NOT need an electric fan - the stock 32 fan will move a lot of air. Also, you mentioned that you are having issues - be specific as to exactly what they are? Is it an overheating issue at idle, going down the road, puking water, leaking . . . all of the above???
 
Here’s an overhead and side shot of my radiator
 

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Being fairly new to early Fords myself, I took some advice and am still in the process of cleaning out the old sand casting that was left in the coolant passages of the engine block. My radiator blew last year. The original had been replaced in 2003 by BrassWorks. I went to BrassWorks again for the new Radiator I’ve tecemtly installed; beautiful, top notch work. I wanted to be sure the money that was spent on the new Radiator doesn’t blow again..

I couldn’t believe all the old stuff that I have vacuumed out of the block. It’s not over yet. I still need to flush it with something, probably vinegar and water mix also recommended here on the Barn.
 
tgarner317 said:
Being fairly new to early Fords myself, I took some advice and am still in the process of cleaning out the old sand casting that was left in the coolant passages of the engine block. My radiator blew last year. The original had been replaced in 2003 by BrassWorks. I went to BrassWorks again for the new Radiator I’ve tecemtly installed; beautiful, top notch work. I wanted to be sure the money that was spent on the new Radiator doesn’t blow again..

I couldn’t believe all the old stuff that I have vacuumed out of the block. It’s not over yet. I still need to flush it with something, probably vinegar and water mix also recommended here on the Barn.
Click to expand...


Did brassworks re-do your original 1932 ford radiator? Or did you buy a new unit from Brassworks ? What are you running for motor?
I was curious if the NEW brassworks unit has the top and bottom outlets placed in the same locations/angles as stock. That is part of what has me debating on re-doing my radiatior.
 
I’m sure my block is probably nasty . I may have to clean it out like you did prior to installing my new water pumps /radiator
 
The top tank appears to be original. As for the core, it could be original or not as it is the front side of the fins that distinguishes an original core, not the back side (see my earlier post).
 
So are there specific points I should point the temperature gun at ??
I’ve never used one of these before .
One thing I did notice when I was pointing it at various areas on the heads is that it was hottest when pointed near the edge of the spark plugs. I’m assuming that’s due to it being recessed , compared to pointing it on the actual head surface .
One thing I did notice though is the highest temps registered were on the last spark plug closest to the firewall of the engine

Once I know where to point it specifically I will chart the temps and post them here
After seeing some of the guys posts on here about clogged water jackets and stuff built up inside the motor I wouldn’t be surprised if I have some leading to higher temp.

I have a pair of Skip Haney’s water pumps but they aren’t installed, I just got them. I think I may freshen up the motor internally so I figured makes more sense to wait till after that to install skips pumps and a fresh radiator to not let all the crud go into it.

I only have the original temp gauge and it doesn’t work. I’m gonna install a set of vintage Stewart Warner’s when the motor is redone.
 
The rear of the flathead is a weak spot. the area things settle, rust etc...


Think about a river? How does it flow? The back of the block will always be the hottest till someone makes a head with a rear exit. Why cleaning out the rear of the block is necessary. Worse in the early blocks and a mystery to me that the went back to it on later blocks... there was a reason why the center outlet happened.



Check your rad for blockage. Run it all along the rad. Should be clear real quick.
 
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Oh and had a question:
IF I do have a stock radiator , can it be redone to have similar cooling capacity of the walker or brassworks models?
I live where it’s hot so I usually go for the best cooling radiator possible to try and lessen the chances of it running hot.
 
Simple search on recores and maybe a request here including area. Hope you can find someone that can do it. Brass works puts out a fine product.
 
Stick a temp gauge or 2 in it ! Don't chance it . A temp and oil pressure gauge are mandatory for healthy life , both you and your motors .
 
draggin49 said:
Oh and had a question:
IF I do have a stock radiator , can it be redone to have similar cooling capacity of the walker or brassworks models?
I live where it’s hot so I usually go for the best cooling radiator possible to try and lessen the chances of it running hot.
Click to expand...
Don't know where you are in SoCal but you might try Fontana Radiator
They did some work on a radiator out of a '40 Ford big truck I used to own as well as reworking the outlets on a '39 Ford p/u. I was very happy with the work they did.





fontanaradiator.net

17635 Arrow Blvd, Fontana, CA 92335​

(909) 822-8737​
​
​
 
draggin49 said:
How many mins after firing it up should I take the heat measurements?
Click to expand...


as is mentioned above, you should become familiar with the time it takes to warm the motor up. take temp readings constantly. every few minutes check both heads separately. they can read different. take it for a ride, check it again... run it a little harder, check it again etc!



I'm not sure how the "stock" setup works with the 32. in my car I ran a 32 radiator that had the original cap closed and a neck added to the back of the tank for a light pressure cap. I have a mostly stock 8ba in it. I constantly had problems with the tanks developing pinholes and foaming out of them. found the cracks in the exhaust ports were causing the foaming when I pulled it to rebuild the transmission. i replaced my radiator with a walker and it's been great so far. not the most original looking but it works well. runs exactly where my thermostats are.


evaluate the tanks first. if they seem good and solid find a reputable shop that has done them before to clean and flush.
 
Even with a laser pointer, it is hard to know exactly where the IR sensor is looking, because the pointer is an inch or more off center of the sensor. Temperature on the heads will vary all over the place. I check the heads right just under where the radiator hose connects, but the most stable indication is the top of the radiator core right under each hose connection; that will be pretty close to the temperature of the water coming out of that head. Then I check it on the core right above where the bottom hose picks up.
 
The radiator in post #22 is a late model radiator.The fins go from tube to tube. Early type radiators the fins slipped over the tubes .The tubes where more round and the tubes went from side to side. Early radiators took less force to push the water thru the core. All the pumps had to do was get the water up to the top of the radiator and gravity took over. Modern radiators are a complet different design for water flow and cooling. Modern Alum core radiators take about 12 lbs of pressure to force the water thru the core. The basic ford pumps will not do this so the water is being sucked at bottom of the radiator-The reducted pressure causes the water boil.
 
The brassworks radiators are fabricated with the fins that slip over the tubes and tubes are bigger than than alum cores. The narrows tubes keep the Reynold number about 4000 to 5000- this causes turbulence in the tube and increases cooling. If you go to a modern radiator than go a complete system "closed loop" with expansion can.
36 fordguy
 
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