Radiator question
- Thread starter sconnors
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BButturff
Senior Member
I've never seen that diagram before and I've also never seen a Model A radiator with a slanted baffle. Is the diagram even for a Model A? Who knows. But if you were to try to bend that tube as shown in the diagram I would expect it to kink and then you have a real problem.
nkaminar
Well-known member
The diagram is from the Service Bulletins. Bending the tub back reduces the amount of coolant loss. I did that to my radiator. A gentle bend is require so it takes some care not to kink the tube. As others have stated, if you are not having a problem you can leave it alone.
CT Jack
Well-known member
Another considereation.
I knew someone who had a problem with keeping his radiator from continually boiling over. After checking that the block and radiator were thoroughly clean, the head gasket was not leaking, and the water pump was operating properly the problem persisted. After careful inspection of the radiator and the upper baffle it was determined that the overflow tube was too short and was the cause for coolant loss. The pump flow rate while driving would bring the coolant up high enough for it to flow out the overflow tube. Lengthening the tube solved the problem.
I knew someone who had a problem with keeping his radiator from continually boiling over. After checking that the block and radiator were thoroughly clean, the head gasket was not leaking, and the water pump was operating properly the problem persisted. After careful inspection of the radiator and the upper baffle it was determined that the overflow tube was too short and was the cause for coolant loss. The pump flow rate while driving would bring the coolant up high enough for it to flow out the overflow tube. Lengthening the tube solved the problem.
Jim/GA
Well-known member
Bending the tube back was in the Ford Service Bulletins as a fix to coolant loss. I don't know how thoroughly they researched it.
The baffle does a pretty good job of stopping the coolant that's coming up the outlet hose, out of the engine, from hitting the underside of the cap. Ford's theory was that the coolant bounced off the radiator cap and went down the overflow pipe. My '29 radiator baffle is sloped like shown in the drawing.
I bent my vent tube to be vertical, not bent all the way back like they show. I know people who have put a roofing nail in that vent tube to stop coolant from splashing up and going out the overflow. I have also known others to extend the vent tube up, like Jack describes, with a piece of rubber tubing, like fuel hose or vacuum hose, to reduce the coolant loss.
I have seen several cars that had coolant loss like this, out the overflow, and not been able to stop it. The cars do not seem to be boiling over, it seems to be more tied to extended operation at higher RPM, like above 35 or 40 MPH. They could drive for weeks under 35 and not lose a drop, but run for an hour at 45 RPM and have a quart or two of coolant gone.
It is not possible to "see what's going on" in there while running down the road. I have my suspicions but no proof. It is odd how some engines do this and others do not.
The baffle does a pretty good job of stopping the coolant that's coming up the outlet hose, out of the engine, from hitting the underside of the cap. Ford's theory was that the coolant bounced off the radiator cap and went down the overflow pipe. My '29 radiator baffle is sloped like shown in the drawing.
I bent my vent tube to be vertical, not bent all the way back like they show. I know people who have put a roofing nail in that vent tube to stop coolant from splashing up and going out the overflow. I have also known others to extend the vent tube up, like Jack describes, with a piece of rubber tubing, like fuel hose or vacuum hose, to reduce the coolant loss.
I have seen several cars that had coolant loss like this, out the overflow, and not been able to stop it. The cars do not seem to be boiling over, it seems to be more tied to extended operation at higher RPM, like above 35 or 40 MPH. They could drive for weeks under 35 and not lose a drop, but run for an hour at 45 RPM and have a quart or two of coolant gone.
It is not possible to "see what's going on" in there while running down the road. I have my suspicions but no proof. It is odd how some engines do this and others do not.
Bob Bidonde
Well-known member
I bent the tube and it broke -off. Don't do it!
Fullraceflathead
Well-known member
Considering how brittle the brass tube may be depending on it's age. I would choose adding a piece of rubber hose on to it to extend it if needed. If you choose to bend it and it breaks you're gonna wish you hadn't messed with it!!!
Keith True
Well-known member
For years I have been putting a plastic cap plug over the end of my tubes.I bought an assortment of them years ago,it had thousands in there.But,I save them from new brake and fuel lines,carbs,injection pumps,just anything with a hole they wanted to keep the bugs and dirt out of.Once I slide them on,I cut an X in the top with an exacto knife.Usually I make two X's,so the top of the cap looks like a sliced up pizza.It can never make any pressure,and the splashing water doesn't want to seek it's way down there.My pickup got down on water,and when I had a look I found the cap was split wide open.It's been in there from 04.
Big hammer
Well-known member
Bending tubing : anneal the copper or brass ( google is your friend ) stick a bending spring into the tube ( again google is your friend )
I think that Sconners has more issues than some coolant flow from the overflow tube ?! His coolant looks like pond water , the level is higher than recommended , I would suggest a good cleaning with store bought coolant cleaner ( Presstone cleaner is my go to, follow the manufacturer instructions ). !!
I think that Sconners has more issues than some coolant flow from the overflow tube ?! His coolant looks like pond water , the level is higher than recommended , I would suggest a good cleaning with store bought coolant cleaner ( Presstone cleaner is my go to, follow the manufacturer instructions ). !!
Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
Did I miss something? I don't see any water. I agree tho, it should be flushed.
Joe K
Well-known member
I did the rubber tube trick. I left the tube a little "long" such that you have to bend it over to get the cap on. That way the "overflow orifice" is as high as it can practically be made.
The tube as it sits points to the windshield. Perhaps it gets pushed to the side a little in screwing on the 28-29 cap.
Joe K
The tube as it sits points to the windshield. Perhaps it gets pushed to the side a little in screwing on the 28-29 cap.
Joe K
Is the symptom continual water loss?
On a long trip with 300-400 miles days at higher speeds, I would lose a half a gallon a day, consistently. I would always fill up, and then it would be down half a gallon. I stopped doing that and it stayed at that half a gallon down(on a fill up a few days later).
I kinda thought that most Model A's just find their level and stay there....
On a long trip with 300-400 miles days at higher speeds, I would lose a half a gallon a day, consistently. I would always fill up, and then it would be down half a gallon. I stopped doing that and it stayed at that half a gallon down(on a fill up a few days later).
I kinda thought that most Model A's just find their level and stay there....
Jim/GA
Well-known member
What do you know about the water pump that is in your car?
How new or old? What kind of packing or seals?
Cut down impeller or stock original?