Radiator puzzle

G

Gino

Senior Member
Hi, so the radiator finally gave out in my ( I believe ) 31 pickup.
A frind of mine, also a member here, says he has a radiator I can have for a six pack, two cigars and and a twinky. Funny thing my existing radiator is 5/8" thicker and the bracket at the top is also 5/8 " deeper. I can explain more but I'm thinking e few of you guys already know what's going on. My concern is when pull the trigger on a new one.
Thanks for the help
 
You will not believe the difference a new correct USA made radiator will make in your car.

While it’s out. How is your water pump (dripless) and timing gear? Easy to replace once radiator has been removed.

Just another item to check off the list.
 
It's not that much of a big deal to remove your rad and refit the one on offer, so I'd be tempted by that offer, given the price. But it's a can of worms. You don't know what it's like inside. Here's a photo of the core I just removed from mine, after starting to have some overheating issues. I had previously tried flushing with detergent, as I knew I had greasy deposits in the system, but hadn't tried anything for the rust deposits. I was quite horrified when I saw the rust deposits on top of the tubes, with only a small number of tubes even open! That stuff was as hard as rock. I doubt whether a vinegar flush would have shifted it. In retrospect, I should have bit the bullet earlier, spent the $$ and got back to enjoyable motoring instead of stuffing around.
 

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Mike V. Florida said:
Commercial radiators were larger with an extra row of tubes.
Click to expand...
To expand a little on what Mike said. The radiators used in the AA vehicles were thicker and the radiator shell was deeper to accommodate the extra thickness. What does you radiator shell look like? How about a picture? For your reference the shell on the left is a passenger shell but the pickup had the same shell with a peak but was painted black. The AA shell is shown on the right.
Charlie Stephens
 

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Thanks so far but I'm still wondering if a new radiator will be thicker,not wider. You see the big problem with my friends radiator is that the hood will not fit because his radiator is 5/8 thinner. That brings the radiator cover closer to the gas tank. I also own a 30 Coupe and that radiator is thinner. My friend has two other A's and those radiators are thinner. Also the bracket that hold the support rods is deeper ( if you will) on my existing Radiator than all theses other examples. Hope I'm being clearer on the matter and do appreciate any advice
 
I was hoping you guys would solve my problem so I wouldn't have to think for myself, but did put a little thought into this. Does anyone know if an AA radiator is thicker than an A
I'm thinking the guy I baught the truck from made an AA fit and had to cut the rods and that is why they no longer work on a thinner radiator
Thanks again
 
The AA radiator is thicker but it sticks out the front farther not the back, the
AA uses the same radiator rods as the A.


Bob
 
I would also agree that you should have your radiator recored,a used radiator is either a blessing or a curse.
 
For those that have an interest. Looks like the previous owner did put in an AA radiator.
After much research the best option is to install another AA radiator, with good reason for doing so. SNyders has it on the mail.
Thanks, it is a comfort knowing the Ford Barn is here.
 
See photo in post #4

Using "HARD" tap water with calcium instead of distilled water to mix with antifreeze will cause this ...

This used to be a problem with the company cars (small block Chevy) until we STOPPED using tap water. I got over 300,000 miles after started using distilled water on the 2nd radiator.

NO deposits!

We had over 50 company cars here in town.

My first one did not make it to 100,000 before it clogged with calcium deposits.





Hoogah said:
It's not that much of a big deal to remove your rad and refit the one on offer, so I'd be tempted by that offer, given the price. But it's a can of worms. You don't know what it's like inside. Here's a photo of the core I just removed from mine, after starting to have some overheating issues. I had previously tried flushing with detergent, as I 4.knew I had greasy deposits in the system, but hadn't tried anything for the rust deposits. I was quite horrified when I saw the rust deposits on top of the tubes, with only a small number of tubes even open! That stuff was as hard as rock. I doubt whether a vinegar flush would have shifted it. In retrospect, I should have bit the bullet earlier, spent the $$ and got back to enjoyable motoring instead of stuffing around.
Click to expand...
 
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Some guys did not use antifreeze in summer ... they had the rust colored deposits while ones with anti freeze year round had white deposits.

There is a point somewhere in that statement! :D :D
 
I agree with benson my first thought was calcium deposit from the water used.if you have a product called CLR it will dissolve it I have used it in aluminum rads with no side affects
 
Thanks charley those pictures helped, I think I've got it now. I can't sing, I can't get girls to look at me and I can't figure out how to post pics here. I have a large hammer and a hack saw I'll get it in. If I have some help I'll get it installed in the next few days, I'll post how it turns out. Thanks
 
I bought a new rad for my 30 Fordor $ 700 ..The filling spout was 3/8 “ higher so the cap is too hi .I raised the shell up some but I will eventually cut it off ,and shorten it .or recor the original one as it has a lot nicer top tank .why can’t they make parts like the original ones
 
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