Radiator Paint

P

Patrick brophy

Senior Member
Just got my radiator back from the shop.I had it cleaned and pressure tested etc, getting it ready to put back in the Baby Bird when the paint job is complete.
I was wondering what type of paint was used on the radiators when the car was assembled.
Is there a certain type of paint that was used that was better as in reference to the heat,or is the gloss black rattle can paint OK to use?
 
Patrick brophy said:
Just got my radiator back from the shop.I had it cleaned and pressure tested etc, getting it ready to put back in the Baby Bird when the paint job is complete.
I was wondering what type of paint was used on the radiators when the car was assembled.
Is there a certain type of paint that was used that was better as in reference to the heat,or is the gloss black rattle can paint OK to use?
Click to expand...


What paint does the shop that did the radiator use? Yes, Eastwood makes a radiator paint but with shipping it gets pricey. IMO
 
I think that krylon makes a black paint that is designed for radiators. It is kind of thin, and is sort of a satin/flat black. I used to have some out in the shop, I will look tomorrow and double check the name brand of the paint
 
Alaska Jim said:
I think that krylon makes a black paint that is designed for radiators. It is kind of thin, and is sort of a satin/flat black. I used to have some out in the shop, I will look tomorrow and double check the name brand of the paint
Click to expand...


Krylon makes what they refer to as a high heat radiator/wood stove/barbecue paint but its for household heating radiators not automotive ones. Don't know if that be an issue or not. Or maybe they make one for automotive applications that Mr. Google didn't tell me about. Be nice to know since I have an aluminum one in my '54 Ranch Wagon that needs paint.
 
I am aware that there is issues with the 55-56-57 Thunderbirds overheating with the stock radiators. That is why I am not looking to create a problem when I paint the Radiator.
If there is something I should stay away from, I would like to know it now, as I really would not want to have to pull it out later to correct any mistake.
 
- https://www.eastwood.com/ew-radiator-black-12oz-satin-finish.html

Radiator Black Gloss Paint is just the right viscosity to spray-paint your radiator without damaging it Standard engine paints are too thick for use on a radiator because they can interfere with heat transfer, and block air flow between the cooling fins. But Radiator Black Gloss is specifically formulated for your radiator, heater core and air conditioning condenser. Won't block air flow between cooling fins Won't interfere with heat transfer Acrylic enamel (85% gloss) Withstands 300 degreesF
Click to expand...
 
When I was a lot younger and there were several local radiator shops around, most folks recommended a thin enamel paint. Lacquer was a no-no. Things have changed a lot since then. Most all "enamels" are acrylic based now days instead of alkyd like they used to be. As long as the coat is well thinned and not too much film build then an acrylic enamel will be fine. Too much film build equals too much insulation against heat transfer. Eastwood uses acrylic enamel in a can and calls it radiator paint. Just make sure to get the best quality rattle can you can find or purchase acrylic enamel from TCP Global and thin it well but not so well that it runs all over the place. A thin coat or maybe two if you can see through the first coat.

This link is to the HAMB. One fellow on there made the mistake of "following instructions". I think he should have just coated it well and stopped. Some of the acrylics take a long time to completely solidify. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/warning-eastwood-radiator-paint.787613/
 
Last edited:
Patrick brophy said:
... getting it ready to put back in the Baby Bird when the paint job is complete. ...
Click to expand...
rotorwrench said:
... Too much film build equals too much insulation against heat transfer. ...
Click to expand...
I somehow ended up with an extra new aluminum radiator for a Baby Bird.
Don't care for the shiny bare aluminum color so it will eventually get a light coat of black,
but only on the parts outside of the radiator shroud that are easily seen.
 
I used the same high temperature gloss black spray enamel that I used on the engine rocker arm covers to do the radiator. Comes in spray rattle cans. Has held up well for many decades now. Sorry, don't remember what brand it was.
 
Well, I searched all over the garage today, looking for the radiator paint. I must have used it all , as I can't find it anywhere. So now I am not sure what brand it was. If you have a Good radiator shop near you ask them what they use, they should know what works best. I will check around the garage again tomorrow and see if I can turn up that can of paint. I sure don't remember using it all
 
We use SEM Trim Black paint for painting all radiator cores whether they be for a Ferrari or Duesenberg at RM Auto Restorations and have never had a overheating problem or colour fade.

We use single stage paint on the radiator tanks
 
I've used the SEM trim paint and it goes on well. I don't know how long it will look good though. I used it on the helicopter instrument panels and it seemed to rub off in places where pilots like to put there fingers a lot. It does go on thin so make sure all parts are covered before you let it dry. It may be an acrylic urethane but information is hard to find on that product.
 
Two questions:
1- How would you typically prep a copper radiator to take a radiator paint (like the Eastwood.)


2- Would the overflow/expansion tank on an FE engine need a radiator paint like those mentioned? Or would a high temp engine enamel be better? I ask because I don't believe the expansion tank is steel, so I wonder how long term adhesion would be. Thanks.
 
Did you read my referring URL above?

Step 5

Clean the radiator with mineral spirits and a shop rag until it is free of oil and residue. Apply a light coating of radiator spray paint. Radiator spray paint is specially formulated to block heat from the engine and is black in color. Let the paint dry for a few minutes, then apply three or four solid coats of paint. Allow the paint to dry for at least several hours (or overnight if possible) before reinstalling the radiator in the engine bay.
Click to expand...

Same procedure for the expansion tank.
 
Patrick brophy said:
I am aware that there is issues with the 55-56-57 Thunderbirds overheating with the stock radiators. ...
Click to expand...
I've got a '55 Bird with what appears to be an original (date coded) radiator and it hasn't overheated in two summers of 100 degree temperatures. The only non-stock part in the cooling system is an oversized thermostat.

Has your T-Bird been running hot?
As the factory Temp sensor & gauge get older they can become less accurate. A hand-held infrared sensor from the hardware store reading the thermostat housing may help you out. (photo 4)

A common reason for running hot is rust debris buildup in the water jackets of the block. Cleaning compounds to flush the block can be used.

Another common reason, especially on the '55 & '56 with the original distributor, is non-functioning ignition timing advance.
https://www.ctci.org/cracked-exhaust-manifold/

Here are a couple example parts that can help reduce engine heat.
https://www.classictbird.com/Thermostat-Large-Opening-170-Degrees/productinfo/8575C/

https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/

And this T-Bird specific improved hi-flow water pump spacer, on the right side of photo 5.
https://thunderbird.us/
.
 

Attachments

  • water jacket rust.jpg
    water jacket rust.jpg
    18.2 KB · Views: 10
  • water jacket rust 2.jpg
    water jacket rust 2.jpg
    21.4 KB · Views: 12
  • water jacket cleaned.jpg
    water jacket cleaned.jpg
    17.1 KB · Views: 11
  • 57 engine, temp surface.jpg
    57 engine, temp surface.jpg
    80.3 KB · Views: 11
  • Ames 432 water piump spacer.jpg
    Ames 432 water piump spacer.jpg
    88.7 KB · Views: 13
Last edited:
dmsfrr said:
I've got a '55 Bird with what appears to be an original (date coded) radiator and it hasn't overheated in two summers of 100 degree temperatures. The only non-stock part in the cooling system is an oversized thermostat.

Has your T-Bird been running hot?
As the factory Temp sensor & gauge get older they can become less accurate. A hand-held infrared sensor from the hardware store reading the thermostat housing may help you out. (photo 4)

A common reason for running hot is rust debris buildup in the water jackets of the block. Cleaning compounds to flush the block can be used.

Another common reason, especially on the '55 & '56 with the original distributor, is non-functioning ignition timing advance.
https://www.ctci.org/cracked-exhaust-manifold/

Here are a couple example parts that can help reduce engine heat.
https://www.classictbird.com/Thermostat-Large-Opening-170-Degrees/productinfo/8575C/

https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/

And this T-Bird specific improved hi-flow water pump spacer...
https://thunderbird.us/

.
Click to expand...
My engine is still sitting in the chassis,and the body is still on the rotisserie in the final stages of pre-paint.
I hope to have the under- carriage painted this week. I have been trying to stay out in front of what I am going to need when the paint is complete, which is why I took the radiator to have it serviced. Now that I have it back in the unpainted form , I had the questions.
When I did the engine I had it boiled out. I am at this point attempting to remove any issues that can be prevented.
That might seem overly cautious, but I do not want to sit alongside the highway and have to answer questions from my supervisor, while awaiting AAA.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top