Radiator overflowing ,spurting

Voycey

Voycey

Member
Hi Water spurts ,sometimes, out the cap on the radiator of my 36 when it gets to operating temp , on the gauge, it never seems to overheat, and the temp fluctuates from idle to moving. From previous threads others state the radiator water level will find its own level depending on running temp etc

What is the best way to check that both water pumps are working properly.

Could the spurting be a semi blocked radiator , dodgy cap seal or something more sinister.

Appreciate any help.
 
It could be any of the problems above.. Is it a non pressurised or pressurised cap? Original radiator ? Just fill the top tank about half way with the motor running and cap off you should see the fluid in the radiator moving about, I think it tends to go back and forth since there is two inlets at the top, a normal radiator when at temp you will see the fluid flowing across the radiator. Don't top it right up.
 
Thanks for your replies , it is non pressurized, I assume it is an original type radiator, Yes I can see the fluid moving freely across the top. The level seems to settle down to a fingernail above the cores. I am still to take it on a long run after 25 years mainly sitting so will see how it goes after this.
 
Voycey said:
Hi Water spurts ,sometimes, out the cap on the radiator of my 36 when it gets to operating temp , on the gauge, it never seems to overheat, and the temp fluctuates from idle to moving. From previous threads others state the radiator water level will find its own level depending on running temp etc

What is the best way to check that both water pumps are working properly.

Could the spurting be a semi blocked radiator , dodgy cap seal or something more sinister.

Appreciate any help.
Click to expand...

This is a problem with engines without pressure caps. First of all this
bolony about water seeking is own level and half filling the top tank is miss information. The system was made to run with 22 quarts of water, less makes it run hotter. The problem is the pumps won't freely push water through the radiator tubes. This is the main reason Ford went to a 4 lb pressure cap. The pressure cap seals at the bottom below the over flow tube and above the tube at the top off the cap. This allows water to be forced through the tubes and in the event of high temperatures above 205 or a compression leak into the water the cap becomes a safety valve releasing pressure. On years like yours with no provision for a pressure cap there is a 3 lb valve made that acts similar to a pressure cap. This valve go's on the bottom of the over flow tube with a small rubber hose and clamps. Also as you as you experienced the radiator cap itself needs a better gasket or water squirts out of the cap seal. A thin piece of red rubber gasket material from the local hardware store, the rivet drilled out and replaced by a 1/4-20 SS screw, lock washer and nut solves that problem. There are well over 1,000 of these in use. After installation fill the radiator almost to the top. The valve is supplied by Skip@fordsrus.com
cost is $28.00 including shipping. You may want to check that your over flow tube is working. With the cap off blow a little low pressure air up through the over flow tube and see that a free flow of air is getting through to the top tank or in the filler neck which ever place the over flow tube comes from. Your symptoms indicate a blocked tube or bad compression leak if the temperature was below 205. G.M.
 

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I put one of Skip valves on my 36 and it solved my water loss problem,now I replenish my water one time a season.Phil
 
Regarding the cap, while the system isn't pressurized your cap s/b sealed and you should never see water coming from the cap, If overflowing it only should come out of the overflow vent tube on the radiator neck. The cap will keep the system pressurize if you use Skip's 3lb valve as GM indicates which is the indication your cap should seal. You need a new cap if this is the case.
 
G.M. I have a question - it was suggested to use a overflow tank with the bottom seal removed from the cap. As the antifreeze expands from heat it goes into the overflow tank - then returns to the radiator as it cools - just like today's new cars ----- your thoughts please.
 
Blu Dice said:
G.M. I have a question - it was suggested to use a overflow tank with the bottom seal removed from the cap. As the antifreeze expands from heat it goes into the overflow tank - then returns to the radiator as it cools - just like today's new cars ----- your thoughts please.
Click to expand...

If the engine runs at normal 160 to 180 most of the time there is very little expansion of coolant. If it gets to 205 sometimes it's still no problem as the pressure is below 3 lbs. Any expansion in this temperature rang is taken by the large diameter long hoses. Above 3 or 4 lbs pressure the 3 lb valve or 4 lb pressure cap becomes a safety valve and releases the excessive pressure. I never saw a need for a tank type recovery system. I do put the over flow hose in a vented plastic bottle to see if any coolant is being blown out or released. With a pressure cap as the engine temperature drops below 155 there is a vacuum formed in the engine which sucks the coolant from the bottle back into the engine. The 3 lb valve is a one way valve and will only allow coolant to flow into the bottle but not let if return. Don't forget this valve at $25.00 is a very cheap fix for coolant lose. I run a number of old Fords with the 3 lb valve or a WORKING 4 lb pressure cap and never add coolant. You can't compare these old cars with modern ones that run at higher temperatures and higher pressures. G.M.
 
G.M. said:
This is a problem with engines without pressure caps. First of all this
bolony about water seeking is own level and half filling the top tank is miss information. The system was made to run with 22 quarts of water, less makes it run hotter. The problem is the pumps won't freely push water through the radiator tubes. This is the main reason Ford went to a 4 lb pressure cap. The pressure cap seals at the bottom below the over flow tube and above the tube at the top off the cap. This allows water to be forced through the tubes and in the event of high temperatures above 205 or a compression leak into the water the cap becomes a safety valve releasing pressure. On years like yours with no provision for a pressure cap there is a 3 lb valve made that acts similar to a pressure cap. This valve go's on the bottom of the over flow tube with a small rubber hose and clamps. Also as you as you experienced the radiator cap itself needs a better gasket or water squirts out of the cap seal. A thin piece of red rubber gasket material from the local hardware store, the rivet drilled out and replaced by a 1/4-20 SS screw, lock washer and nut solves that problem. There are well over 1,000 of these in use. After installation fill the radiator almost to the top. The valve is supplied by Skip@fordsrus.com
cost is $28.00 including shipping. You may want to check that your over flow tube is working. With the cap off blow a little low pressure air up through the over flow tube and see that a free flow of air is getting through to the top tank or in the filler neck which ever place the over flow tube comes from. Your symptoms indicate a blocked tube or bad compression leak if the temperature was below 205. G.M.
Click to expand...

You want to be sure to keep these valves clean. They can, and do fill up with rust, dirt, etc. and get plugged up, tight. This will lead to no overflow, at all and even become steam tight.
MIKE :) (mikeburch)
 
FL&WVMIKE said:
You want to be sure to keep these valves clean. They can, and do fill up with rust, dirt, etc. and get plugged up, tight. This will lead to no overflow, at all and even become steam tight.
MIKE :) (mikeburch)
Click to expand...

Just follow the directions. Remove once a year and flush good with water
from the spigot. Water will go one way and not the other when cleaning
Make sure it is put back on with the red dot up towards the radiator
which is the direction water will flow through the valve. G.M.
 

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My pickup, 56 Fairlaine , 74 Cuda and 61 herald have all found their own level and all run perfectly well.
 
Brendan said:
I put one on, and my radiator started to leak
Click to expand...

The valve didn't cause the leak it just exposed some other problem.
Small leak that showed up under VERY SLIGHT pressure.
Possible small compression leak that escaped through open over flow.
If the engine never got over 210 there wouldn't be enough pressure to
damage even a real old radiator. When I say damage I mean open up
a weak spot.

My son that I gave the 35 roadster to just came in 20 minutes ago. I
asked if he wasn't going to church. Said he was going to late service and
taking the 35. He said he waxed it, checked the oil and water and the
water was still filled up to the top from last year. G.M.
 
Thanks Guys for the replies, very helpful , took the grille and bonnet off so I could check right around the radiator and drove around to get it hot , there were a couple of leaks in the tubes also which I thought was coming out the cap , only a small amount of water was coming out of there. Will get the radiator checked but may need replacing / re coring , Any OZ barners have any luck with local supplied Radiators.

While I have the radiator out I attacked the water pumps which I will replace , is there a trick to getting the temp sender out of the left hand water pump , it wont budge !!!
 
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