Radiator over flow pressure control

Lyle

Lyle

Senior Member
There is someone the sells a pressure regulater that is installed in the over flow tube.Do this ring a Bell with annyone. Thanks Lyle
 
I think the picture posted with GM's comment yesterday on the thread: Restrictor washer instead of t-stat might be what you're looking for.
 
Lyle, FYI, I put one of those Skip Haney 3# pressure release valves on my '35 fordor over a year ago and it completely stopped the coolant loss problem that I was having. I highly recommend using one on the early fords that came from the factory without a pressurized system. After stopping the coolant loss, I had no more problems with over heating. Worked like a charm for me. The best $25 bucks I ever spent on my car.

Lyle said:
There is someone the sells a pressure regulater that is installed in the over flow tube.Do this ring a Bell with annyone. Thanks Lyle
Click to expand...
 
JM 35 Sedan ...........................
I had the very same experience with my 1935 FORD. I put Skip's Pumps on at the same time. I think that the overflow valve, by it self, might have solved my heating problems. But I'm sold on the pumps too.
MIKE :)
 
Hi Mike, I bought the pressure release valve and had a set of pumps rebuilt at the same time. I put the pressure valve on first and solved the water loss/over heating problem. Then a few months later I had to replace the timing gear and during that repair I put the rebuilt pumps on. The pumps gave me ~ 20* reduction in engine operating temperature. I can run all day in 90-100* temps without over heating. The hottest my engine has gotten since adding valve and pumps has been 190* and that was at the '10 Charlotte Meet while the car was idling in front of the host hotel for 30-40 minutes. The outside temp. that day was ~ 100*. I'm not trying to be a salesman for Skip, but I'm sure a believer in those two products he sells.
 
Thanks fellows that is what I was looking for.With the A radiator I can not run a pressure cap. I did not change the Fill cap I wonted to keep the A looking radiator cap.Thanks Lyle
 
The 3 lb pressure valve can be used on any engine that does not have a pressure cap that has the over flow tube comming directly from the top of the radiator tank or sitting up inside of the filler neck. With the valve installed you can fill the radiator up into the neck and the water will not "seek it's own level" as has been described on the forums for many years. With more coolant staying in the system better cooling is optained. One thing you must do is make the radiator cap seal good and tight, if not water will leak from the cap. The old caps on the early Fords even new ones don't seal very good. You need to drill the rivet out, make a new gasket from the 1/8" red rubber gasket material found in the plumbing section of your local hardware store. Replace the rivet with a slotted 1/4-20 SS screw about 1/2" or 3/4" long with a SS lockwasher and nut. I usually put a drop of lock-tite on the threads also. A lot of people have ordered the valve to install on Fords with a pressure cap. You don't want to do that you need to make the pressure cap work. A lot of pressure caps don't sit down on the bottom seat down in the filler neck. As the pressure cap is installed when the lock tabs at the top are lined up with the notches in the top of the neck when you push the cap straight down you should feel the spring in the cap working about 1/8th or 3/16" before the top seat of the cap hits the top of the neck as you turn the cap in the notches. If the bottom seat don't hit you don't have a working pressure cap. I have had to put a gasket type washer between 1/16 and 1/8" thick down on the bottom seat of the neck. Don't get the gasket to thick or it will raise the pressure that the caps operates at. G.M.
 

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I am using A gas cap the threads are the same and gives a no leak seal.The cap will be drilled and taped for a live temperature gauge. The gage I have has a right angle turn That will mount in the top of the cap. with the probe sticking down into the water level. Gauge numbers showing to the rear. The gage is abour 2 1/2 dia. I did a test without the body on yet. I think I will be able to see the numbers. Also a live gauge in each head. Lyle
 
I made sure that mine is sealed. With a new gasket also. Some solder also. I use silver solder on parts that are heavely stressed. The lower pan on My converted A to Flathead radiator Is silver soldered.
 
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