Radiator Leak?

spinelll

spinelll

Senior Member
Referring to the pics, does the dis-coloration indicate a radiator leak?

Thanks
 

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It looks like you might have an original fan. Have you considered replacing it with an aluminum replacement?
 
Most important: As Jack said, if that is an original fan replace it before running the engine again.

The discoloration may be due to small leaks but could also be due to paint that has come off and moisture has discolored the copper. The green color is copper oxide.

Take the radiator to a local radiator shop to have it checked out.

Do you have overheating problems? How new is the car to you? Is this a new discoloration?
 
nkaminar said:
Is this a recent problem or has it been going on for a while?
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I've noticed the stains for about the last 2 or 3 driving seasons.

I have to add a few cups of coolant every month.


nkaminar said:
Do you have overheating problems? How new is the car to you? Is this a new discoloration?
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Well, I've confused the issue due to a recent overheating during as parade (I left the spark retarded). I've had the car for 15+ years. Discoloration is not new.

Leo
 
Clean the areas with a nylon detail brush or tooth brush. Stuff pieces of paper towel in the radiator at the suspected area and observe if the paper towel gets moist. If the paper does not get moist then paint the radiator with radiator paint. If it is moist then consider a radiator stop leak and once the leak stops, paint the radiator.
 
nkaminar said:
Clean the areas with a nylon detail brush or tooth brush. Stuff pieces of paper towel in the radiator at the suspected area and observe if the paper towel gets moist. If the paper does not get moist then paint the radiator with radiator paint. If it is moist then consider a radiator stop leak and once the leak stops, paint the radiator.
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After cleaning/drying, then paper towel for a day, it's minimally damp in the circled locations.


Leo
 

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After you get the leaks stopped do two things: Paint the radiator to prevent atmospheric moisture from oxidizing the radiator. Second, save up for a new radiator.
 
Just be aware that the stop leak may or may not work. Most stop leak products are designed to work with a pressurized system. The stop leak needs the pressure to find and "push" the product into the hole(s).

Best of luck to you.
 
Ruth said:
The stop leak needs the pressure to find and "push" the product into the hole(s). Best of luck to you.
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Aluma-Seal works. Before there were fancy store-bought products, ground black pepper was the home remedy for radiator leaks.
 
In 1972 I tried oatmeal in my 54 Packard. I made the mistake of opening the cap on the radiator when the engine was hot and cooked oatmeal sprayed all over the engine and everything else under the hood. Me too.
 
J Franklin said:
Aluma-Seal works. Before there were fancy store-bought products, ground black pepper was the home remedy for radiator leaks.
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I hope it does. Personally I have not had much success with stop leak products in a non-pressurized system.
 
read an interesting thread about 20 yrs ago from an oldtimer and sealing a radiator.


he would go to the back of the rad and where there was a leak, squeeze in some black caulk. said he drove the car for over 10 yrs and never had a leak again.


might make more sense then internal rad seal wo having any real pressure.
 
FWIW, radiator leaks I’ve had have left blue-green residue, which makes sense because copper salts are typically blue or green. But from your paper towel detective experiment I’d say you are due for at least a rod-out of your radiator, if not a recore or replacement.
 
Ruth said:
Just be aware that the stop leak may or may not work. Most stop leak products are designed to work with a pressurized system. The stop leak needs the pressure to find and "push" the product into the hole(s).

Best of luck to you.
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You are correct, -and a method we use is to take a 3" long piece of rubber hose and insert a small 5/16"bolt into one end of the hose, and slide the open end of the hose over the overflow drain tube. When the cap is reinstalled and the drain tube is plugged, it will generally only build 2-3 lbs of pressure inside of the radiator tank when the engine comes up to temps, but that is generally enough to force the Sodium Silicate thru the holes where it can find air to seal.

We also use this method on engines that are mounted on the run-in stand to seal threads in water jacketed areas during initial run-in.
 
BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
You are correct, -and a method we use is to take a 3" long piece of rubber hose and insert a small 5/16"bolt into one end of the hose, and slide the open end of the hose over the overflow drain tube. When the cap is reinstalled and the drain tube is plugged, it will generally only build 2-3 lbs of pressure inside of the radiator tank when the engine comes up to temps, but that is generally enough to force the Sodium Silicate thru the holes where it can find air to seal.

We also use this method on engines that are mounted on the run-in stand to seal threads in water jacketed areas during initial run-in.
Click to expand...

Great tip Brent! Thanks for sharing.
 
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