Radiator drain installation

M

Mike/Franklin

Member
I have a 39 truck radiator with no drain **** installed. Right now to test motor I just remove a bottom hose to drain. That won't work once I install it in the truck. Looks like new drains have NPT threads. Can I drill hole in front and just screw it in with a gasket and or sealer or does it need to be soldered in? What is the correct procedure?


Thanks ML
 
If it was mine, I'd probably try to use the 1/4" NPT block drains behind the water pumps. While harder to reach, they're usually lower than the bottom hose. Thus assuring the block is fully drained.


Because space is tight due to frame members, I use brass pipe plugs instead of stop *****. I have tygon tubing with a rubber cork ready to quickly jamb into the hole on removing the plug. Only lose a little coolant this way.
 
Mike/Franklin said:
I have a 39 truck radiator with no drain **** installed. Right now to test motor I just remove a bottom hose to drain. That won't work once I install it in the truck. Looks like new drains have NPT threads. Can I drill hole in front and just screw it in with a gasket and or sealer or does it need to be soldered in? What is the correct procedure?


Thanks ML
Click to expand...


If you want a drain **** in the lower tank you need to use a soldered-in fitting with 1/4" female pipe threads.
 
Thanks for the link 19Fordy, I was just going to pose another query about soldering tips.


Forgot about that site.


Thanks a million. ML
 
The best advice on soldering: absolutely spotlessly clean and shiny. Extra flux is nice but good acid core solder works too. Just enough heat to melt the solder and make it flow into the joint. If the metal discolors it's too hot and you'll have to clean it and start over. The metal should be heated until the solder melts on contact...the torch doesn't directly melt the solder.
 
I remember my shop teacher telling us the surface we were going to solder had to be physically and chemically clean.
 
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