Radiator decision?

Put in a new 10-fin/in non-pressurized Brassworks radiator 4 months ago.

Works great and very cool running; no thermostat on my OHV Cragar B engine.

Only hitch was fitting my repop thermo-quail cap; had to loosened up all mounting screws on the radiator cowl, fit the cap, then tightened up the screws, done! No regrets, money well spent! :cool:
 
How about a Thermostat? is that better ? since I decided not to pressurize due to the response here.
 
I would go with the bergs radiator
I know Gery and he makes a fine unit
It will definitely cool well for you .
I know it is more but then like tires , you get what you pay for.
You won't be sorry
Larry Shepard
 
Yes, thermostats are a good idea because they bring the engine up to proper temp, and bring it up quicker than without a stat.
 
I bought a Bergs Radiator for my 1930 Model A and I am very pleased with it and would recommend them to anyone. Hugh
 
Received my Berg's radiator last week.It is beautiful and it was so well packed.I will not know until spring how good it is but if it is half as good as it looks it will be great. A little bit different situation for me,not a new engine but a pretty good low mileage original one.I am worrying more about messing up the new radiator than the guys worrying about a new engine,going to install an upper hose temporary filter before I crank engine over.
 
On the pressurized radiator. I just got my pressurized Brassworks radiator with the overflow tank. One poster mentioned the head gasket and pressure. The cap is a 4 lb cap. Is this a concern? I wanted a closed system for a few reasons but didn't think about the head gasket leaking possibility. I won't find out anyway until Spring. We just got a foot of snow last night and it's only mid Nov. :cool:





Don
 
I installed Bert's 4 row radiator last fall. I have made two long tours with it. One tour was to the mountains in Quincy, CA and the other was to the MAFCA national convention in Sparks, NV. Both of the tours went above 6500 feet elevations. The trip to Sparks had 95+ degree weather every day. We went over a 7500 foot pass to get to Tahoe for a boat ride. The last ten miles over the pass was completed using second gear/overdrive.

I put over 600 miles on the A to Quincy and over 800 miles on the A to Sparks. My car never went over 180 degrees.

I love this radiator.
 
Am not sure what the advantages of pressurized are.


My opinion - pressurized does not cool better, but raises the boiling point of the coolant before boiling, especially if running antifreeze. Means the motor can run hotter than originally designed. Something to consider.


There are may strings on this subject if you search, lots of good info/opinions.


Other opinions may vary.
 
What do the Berts, Snyders, and Brassworks radiators look like, compared to an original 30-31 radiator?
I love the dimpled look of the fins on an original.
 
GRutter said:
What do the Berts, Snyders, and Brassworks radiators look like, compared to an original 30-31 radiator?
I love the dimpled look of the fins on an original.
Click to expand...


If concerned about originality/judging I believe some Brassworks radiators are built using Ford Model A original drawings.


In addition to feedback from the Barn, perhaps look on each manufacturer's website and look, then call the ones you are interested in for additional info.
 
Had heating problems with old radiator. Put on a Bergs. Dropped water temps 50 degrees. No issues with fit..I'd buy another.
 
pressurized system and my leakless water pump started leaking. I had to put in new seals and dump the pressurized ideas.
 
I've had several radiator woes:

- Leakage from top tank (Original radiator)
- Leakage from bottom tank (Repo, bought from Snyder's, but would swear was built by Brassworks, as looked identical to another unit bought from the latter - Snyder's were very good about this - got me a replacement, no quibble, no fuss, in about 1 1/2 weeks)
- Overheating in >100ºF weather on long, uphill drives, resulting in boil-over
- Coolant seepage at high speed out of Quail radiator cap, onto windshield, into hair (what remains of it); this has happened to me a lot
- Tube blockage by engine block rust (my own darn fault really, for not adding enough rust preventer into radiator water), again resulting in both overheating, coolant seepage, and large-volume coolant loss


The frequency of coolant seepage and loss has driven me to try a pressurised radiator. I have ordered one, but have yet to install it (it was accidentally sent to Finland - another story). Time will tell if this a wise investment.

The thin metal of which the Brassworks radiator is constructed (compared to an original, as mentioned by another on this thread), while not yet proven to be problematic outright, leaves me disappointed. I have since had my roadster's original radiator re-cored by a kind, experienced chap in Freemont, CA; he also added an overflow tank for me. I have not yet used it in anger, but will be doing so in the upcoming weeks. For me, the lesson was to not underestimate how good of a result a proper radiator restorer can achieve from even the most hopeless-looking original radiator. I suspect that is why many are happy with restorations of original radiators from Bert's of Colorado.

I have not ever used a Berg's radiator, but from the photographs visible on that company's page, suspect that their radiators' construction could be closer to that of originals', and thus good quality items.

So, yes, quite a bit of money invested in just the dern radiator, but these cars are how I get around on a daily basis in the SF Bay Area. So far, my maintenance bill doesn't exceed my wife's modern Mercedes, so HA!
 
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