Radiator baffle plate?

bobpo

bobpo

Well-known member
I have tried and tried to get my new radiator from "leaking under the cap" or "overheating". I even removed the thermostat in the upper hose like suggested.

There is no Baffle Plate in the upper tank of the radiator as I can see the tubes.

I seems that it may just be leaking under the cap when the car hits bumps. I have the repro Quail cap and I have replaced the O-Rings. I also just received the Water Temp Gauge so I will know soon if it is boiling.

BUT, is it a good idea to get a Baffle Plate installed in the radiator. Also what does one look like? Can you still see the core tubes somehow?

Puzzled....!!!
 
Hi I had the same problem.The baffle needs to be installed in the top tank.The radiator top tank needs to be removed to do this.The baffle blocks the water coming out off the upper hose so it does'nt go down the overflow tube and force it's way out of the radiator cap. It's a curve piece of material with a hole for the overflow tube to fit over it and soldiered to the top tank. You will not see the tubes once the baffle is in place. Good luck, Dennis/CT
 
Do you use a 160* thermostat and put water wetter in your cooling system it will drop your temp about 10*. You can get it at most any auto parts stores.
 
Thanks Dennis. That's what I was hoping to hear (I think) Now I still have to pull the radiator. But..!

Also gunmetal, I was using a 160 degree thermostat and I pulled it out. I guess I'll have to replace it once I figure out if it goes above the Water Temp Gauge Connector Pipe. I also use Water Wetter...

Thanks to both.................
 
Well, I took my radiator in today to have a Baffle installed. Learned that the Radiator Shops don't work on a whole lot of radiators these days as they are aluminum and plastic. WHAT'S THIS WORLD COMIN' TO...........................????
 
bobpo said:
Well, I took my radiator in today to have a Baffle installed. Learned that the Radiator Shops don't work on a whole lot of radiators these days as they are aluminum and plastic. WHAT'S THIS WORLD COMIN' TO...........................????
Click to expand...

It's coming to a "THROW AWAY SOCIETY":mad:

In fact it's been one for quite some time with so much low quality junk being made and sold these days.
 
Here is a sketch of an anti-aereation baffle as used in many race car radiators. It's purpose is to keep air from going down the tubes.
Air gets in the water (aereation) from the turbulance of the water dumping in the top tank from the engine. Once an air bubble starts down a tube, that tube will not cool till the air dumps out the bottom.
This is for a pressurized system.
 

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If your car is a '30-31 then there are at least two types of baffles used, If I am not mistaken this change was addressed in a mid '30 Service Bulletin, and the baffle was revised to discourage water from being directed towards the overflow tube. Around Fathers Day I finally finished rebuilding a good radiator out of three, my upper tank hand been smashed and had the early style baffle and I replaced it with an upper tank that had the revised baffle. I may have an example of each style that I could get photos of, but it would be this evening. Also, as I recall the earlier style has a radius and is soldered in place, but the later style is more angular and is both soldered and riveted in place with the same rivets that hold the inlet and outlet tubes. It might be worth obtaining a different tank which has the baffle in place or looking at one from the inside and duplicate the design.
 
I just realized that I have both styles in the back of my P/U. It appears that the earlier style is the angular soldered one and the later is radiused from front to back and both soldered and riveted. Someone else can probably confirm this, and I will try and post pics of both sometime in the next couple of hours.
I may have to put the photos in my album as I have never had any luck posting here.
 
I have a new aluminum radiator in my 31 built like the old radiator it does not have a baffle in it . I use a 160 thermostat it run 160 to 170 even in traffic.if you have a good seal at your cap no water can come out there . If i can see water in the radiator it is to full. I put purple ice in all my old cars radiator.
 
I had the same problem in my pickup. I didn't know what it was until I checked the water once on a trip. The water comes out of the top hose into the tank with such force that it flows over the tube and drains the radiator. I did an emergency fix by rolling a beer can into a tube, I put it around the overflow and it expanded and gripped the fill hole under the cap. It worked so good that I just left it there.
 
Thanks again for the info. I tok the radiator in for the baffle plate yesterday and an old-timer worked on it who has been there for decades and apparently know what he is doing on these old radiators.

When I picked it up, he had installed a curved baffle plate in which he felt is the proper one for this car. I will install it tomorrow and keep my fingers crossed. Also had it rodded (just in case).
 
A couple of things to consider:
The baffle is definitely a must, as stated, but these things can still be very picky about the water level that will stay in the radiator. You will probably find that it will be happy when the water level, cold, is just covering the tubes. It will expand to fill the tank as it warms up. Most of them puke it out until it finds it's level if you fill it too full. A thermostat serves a couple of puposes. It not only keeps the engine at a proper operating temperature but it also slows the flow a bit, so the water doesn't rush through the radiator before it can cool. Good luck and enjoy your ride.
 
In an old Bob B. post, he stated;


Radiator Coolant Level
Replenish coolant up to baffle in upper radiator tank
If no baffle, make coolant level halfway up the top tank.


I have no plate. I fill my radiator just to the top of the visible 'core'.
I immediately get overflow upon stating.
Once my overflow stops, and after a short ride, my engine will overheat upon idling for 10-15 minutes in my garage.
It would appear I have 'other' problems.


What would be the benefit of filling the coolant halfway up upper tank?


Any 'thoughts'?
 
Is this a new problem or something that has been going on for a long time?
I would suspect you have a plugged up radiator or perhaps your timing is very retarded.
Have you placed a thermometer into the coolant to check the temperature of the coolant?
Also could be a head gasket failure and it pushing exhaust gases into the coolant.
 
The flip top radiator caps including the Quail Cap are notorious for letting coolant escape. They do not seal well.
 
For what it’s worth. Model A’s move about 32 gallons per minute of water in there cooling system.

Without the upper plate in place, the coolant comes right up. Hitting the radiator top, cap, and over flow pipe.
 
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