Questions for the Masses here at the 'Barn'

Canton_Model_A's

Canton_Model_A's

Senior Member
Guys/Gals:
I have received my new 2-Blade fan from Snyders. My question is:

When I go to replace the 'Unknown Origin' 4-Blade fan should I also replace the water pump with the leakless kind from Snyders? The current pump does not leak, and I see it moves the coolant around.

Since I have to move the radiator out of the way to replace this fan, should I do it or leave it in place.

Thanks!

Dave
 
The big thing is whichever pump you mate this fan to - be sure the taper "fits." Even proving it out with some machinists blue (magic marker works) might be worth while.

The aluminum fans were originally noted for being "variable" in the taper. Not mentioned so much but so were the replacement fan-shafts. Vince Falter at fordgarage.com notes both. The leakless pumps are at least made to a Ford print. As long as the two "fit well" is what you need to prove out.

Not fitting well can end up with the fan "propellering" into the backside of your radiator - or worse.


Joe K
 
As long as the 2-blade fan/pulley fits properly and doesn't rub on the housing, leave it. Like I always say, "If it's workin alright, just say good night".
 
[QUOTEFlip a coin ! If you don’t like the results best 2 out of 3 ! Or if it ain’t broke don’t fix it ! ][/QUOTE]


Or like some folks like to do " fix it til it is broke" :D


TOB
 
My water pump wasn't leaking so I left it alone when I changed to the Snyder's aluminum fan. (Put a piece of cardboard against your radiator to protect it when removing pump to install new fan, don't have to remove it)
 
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If you drive your car on somewhat of a regular basis I recommend you install a leakless pump. Also install a set of A-8501-MBM pump studs or tack weld the nut to the stud onthe originals. These studs will allow removing the pump and fan as an assembly without loosening the radiator.

Joe K mentions the vialable in the fan shafts. The biggest variable I have found is with the outside shape of the pump castings where they enter the ID of the Al fan pulley. The pump castings were made by numerous suppliers. As a result there was no dimensional control over the outside shape. If there's an interference between the pump casting and the pulley ID the pump can be belt sanded to provide the necessary cleance.
 
nope, motor still runs, and drives. so no plans to pull it. But that rear-end and torque tube will be coming out this spring for Clutch and Pressure plate and throw-out bearing
 
CT Jack said:
...The biggest variable I have found is with the outside shape of the pump castings where they enter the ID of the Al fan pulley. The pump castings were made by numerous suppliers. As a result there was no dimensional control over the outside shape. If there's an interference between the pump casting and the pulley ID the pump can be belt sanded to provide the necessary cleance.
Click to expand...
I second this, I've found this issue with the last four water pumps I've worked on, including a brand new "leakless" from one of the major vendors. You can hand sand or file it to fit, but I made a jig so I can put an intact pump, shaft or not, into my small lathe and turn down the nose. I find a diameter of about 1.63" (a hair over 1-5/8") works fine. Interestingly enough, I also find that when I turn to this diameter often not all of the nose of the pump is touched by the lathe tool, indicating that the opening is not centered exactly in the nose casting. What's important is that the bore of the nose is collinear with the bore at the rear, and that center axis of these bores is perpendicular to the mounting surface.
 
Changed to 2 blade aluminum fan for opposite reason - water pump didn’t leak but looked nasty and a little different. Had to remove the radiator for clearance to remove 4 blade fan and studs - pump had aluminum body and was corroded badly inside head. Changed to leakless pump, 2 blade pump and as CT Jack suggests studs with nut machined on. Did not have interference between fan pulley and new water pump. If you choose to remove studs, note that three are blind and that the upper left goes through to water jacket and can be pretty stubborn - I used heat (oxyacetylene) and candle wax to avoid breaking it.
 
All good points.

BUT!

There are times when you might want to think about preventive maintenance.

It really isn’t much more work to replace the pump at the same time you are replacing your fan.

Leak less pumps in most cases are a very good up grade.

When you replace your pressure plate and clutch, pilot and throw out bearings are a for sure no matter there condition.

You have it taken apart, why take the chance.

Enjoy.
 
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I guess I'm sort of old school when it comes to the water pumps.
My thought is if (eventually when) a leak less pump starts leaking it will need to come out to fix it.
When an original water pump starts to leak you can just tighten the packing nut. If it gets to the point that tightening the packing nut is no longer working then a person can back off the packing nut, add some more packing, tighten it up again or pick the old packing out and replace the packing without ever having to remove the water pump.
 
Hello ,sometimes you have to take stock off the nose of the water pump to get clearance between the fan and pump. As the repro fan is a casting it’s thicker at pulley area , this maybe more prevalent with repro pumps, that don’t seem to be machined on center of pump casting.
 
If you are gonna mess with the fan or the water pump, place a big sheet of cardboard on the radiator's rear side to protect the radiator.
 
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