Question Re Fuel Shutoff Value

Tom L.

Junior Member
I am new to The Ford Barn and would appreciate any advice you may have to share. I recently bought a 1929 Ford Model A Town Sedan (155-A) and this is my first model a. In looking over the vehicle, I noticed what appears to be some black sealant around the treads of the shutoff valve. So far, it does not leak (I have not driven it very much so far) but I am wondering if I should replace it now before it does. Should I leave it as-is under the theory that "if it is not broke, don't fix it?" Or should I replace it and use gasoline resistant thread tape (rather than the black sealant)? Finally, is this the right shut off value for this car? Again, thanks for any advice you may have on this. Tom
 

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One of the most reliable gasoline proof sealants over the decades has been PERMATEX NO 2 sealant which stays soft and sounds like what someone put on your threads.
I suggest you leave it well enough alone, particularly since plumbers teflon tape IS NOT gasoline resistant, though the GREEN teflon tape is.
 
The "black stuff" may be a liberal application of Permatex, often used in such applications, although my preference is a little less and Permatex Form-A-Gasket No. 2 which is non-hardening and fuel resistant and used where sealing is more important than adhesion. Regardless, the "if-it-ain't-broken-don't-fix-it" approach has much to recommend it.

It appears to me to be the correct gas shut-off valve. If it isn't, someone more knowledgeable will chime in.

You might take a look at what appears (from your posted photo) to be a very poor electrical splice badly covered by electrical tape in the right-hand section of the photo.

And welcome to Ford Barn in general and Model "A" ownership in particular.
 
Correct shut-off valve drawings are in all the vendor catalogs.
That one does not look correct to me.
There must be a dozen good vendor provided catalogs.
 
I'd recommend buying the Restoration Guidelines and Judging Standards. It's one of the best books every Model A owner should have. Sometime during 1929 the handle changed from a forging to a stamped handle as you show.
 
That is not the correct valve for a 29, but it appears to be a new one, which while not correct appearing, is a much better valve than the original. Unless you are interested in fine point judging at a national model A show, I would leave it alone and enjoy the fact that it does not leak.
 
Thank you all for your great advice. I appreciate your sharing your knowledge with the new kid on the block. All the best, Tom
 
With an A, I could almost guarantee something will jump ahead on your priority list. If it works and doesn't leak, I'd leave it for now.
Pete
 
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