Question on trailering

Forker

Forker

Senior Member
I have done a couple of searches and read a lot of old threads on this subject, which conflict with each other and I wonder if those with actual experience might offer an opinion here?

I just picked up a custom open car hauler, it's 16', wood deck and front shield. I'm very happy with it and feel the workmanship and quality are as good as I could have hoped for. With that said, I plan to tie my Model A down in a front and rear manor as opposed to using a tire web approach.

There is clearly a big difference of opinion on how to strap it down when tying it front and rear. One school of thought says you crisscross your straps for stability, to reduce sway or any potential shifting. The other says you strap it straight forward and straight backwards for the safest and most secure travel The don't crisscross crowd claims that if you lose a strap in a crisscross setup, you could lose the car due to the pull to the side still strapped; while others dispute that claim.

Any actual experiences out there tying down one way or the other.
Thanks
george
 
i went through the same thing with different opinions with that said, i would tie the straps straight out and not crisscross them. i agree that by crisscrossing them can pull it to one side if the other strap broke. i have put much thought and research into both methods and straight out won
 
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I have the same trailer you have and I use two strapes on front axle and two strapes on rear axle NOT crisscrossed . I locate the strapes close to the backing plates. Make sure the strapes are pulled down VERY tight.
 
I've been of the understanding that you do not tie the front axle of a Model T. Are '28 to '48 Fords alright with tying the front axles provided the wishbone ball and socket are in good condition?
 
van Dyck Re: Question on trailering
I've been of the understanding that you do not tie the front axle of a Model T. Are '28 to '48 Fords alright with tying the front axles provided the wishbone ball and socket are in good condition?
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Any thoughts on this question?
 
I crisscross tie downs. Tension the tie down straps tight but not straining. Transmission in neutral, Parking Brake set, Gas low (never full). No twisted, kinked or worn tie downs.
 
I have been trailering vehicles for years, and have never had a problem. One strap from rear corner , around the axle and back to the other rear corner. Front axle the same. If straps are not long enough use four and go near the backing plate as stated above.

One suggestion, if using straps always put 1/2 to one turn in the exposed strap. Old trucker trick, keeps the straps from Vibrating like a guitar string in the wind.
 
Legally you are supposed to use 4 straps I believe.

I don't cross them, and I use axle slings to go around the axles. The strap then connects to the axle sling.

An example of an axle sling/strap
1417-2-x-3-axle-strap-with-2-stamped-d-rings_1_640.jpg
 
Thanks everyone for your comments and advice.

I get the impression that crossing or not crossing straps is a personal preference and both appear to work equally well...since no one offered a bad experience either way. So I'm planning to use 2 axle slings per axle and not cross my straps.
george
 
Hi Forker, The only thing not mentioned above is the fastening point on the trailer. I use four weld-on hinged heavy-weight "D" rings placed directly in line with the positioning of the axle sling/straps on the axles. Used with ratcheting tensioners, they work perfectly for me. Happy Motoring!
 
Chris in CT said:
Hi Forker, The only thing not mentioned above is the fastening point on the trailer. I use four weld-on hinged heavy-weight "D" rings placed directly in line with the positioning of the axle sling/straps on the axles. Used with ratcheting tensioners, they work perfectly for me. Happy Motoring!
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I thought about that later, I too recommend welding 4 D rings in the desired position, really makes it nice.
 
I bolted the D rings to the trailer with grade 8 bolts . Got the D rings at H F . Also installed a 12,000 lb H F winch which I can also use as an additional strap .
 
When I had it built I had 4 heavy duty D rings added, two in front and two in rear because that looked to me to be the strongest and most straight forward way to rig it.
 
I just rolled it up the trailer for the first time to see how it fit, etc. It seems to balance alright and I'm glad I went with 16' instead of 14' which would have worked, but would have felt a little short to me.

They normally mount the shield on the deck of the flatbed but that creates a couple of issues, so I had it welded on the trailer frame itself which solved those concerns and also made it stand up just a little higher.

You can see the D-rings in the front and rear, which I'm using instead of the side brackets.

I also purchased a smaller toolbox from Tractor Supply and mounted it in the front of the trailer for a place to store the straps and whatever.

The normal ramps are typical angle iron ramps that I felt might be a little rough on my A's tires, so I had them weld the wire mesh over them as pictured and it rolls up on the bed effortlessly. I also went with side stored ramps instead of upright hinged ramps so that I could double duty the trailer for hauling anything that might extend beyond the end of the trailer.

Question: I obviously will wrap up the loose ends of the straps when hauling, but does anyone feel a need to tie up the ratchet handles on the straps so they can’t pop open?
 

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If you look the ratchet should have a physical lock when you close it. No need to tie the ratchet itself.
 
Here's a close up pic of the ratchet handle and to me it appears to simply catch itself and locks each time you tighten it, to release it you have to squeeze the handle and the bar below the handle. I don't see a seperate locking option, am I missing something?
 

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Forker said:
Here's a close up pic of the ratchet handle and to me it appears to simply catch itself and locks each time you tighten it, to release it you have to squeeze the handle and the bar below the handle. I don't see a seperate locking option, am I missing something?
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what you have is good, make sure its latched tight after ratcheting..
 
In the photo the handle is not locked down, pull the inside handle one notch to lock it down all the way. Dale.
 
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