Question on Cam Gear Marks - UPDATE

No Russ, I've put you crook...you need to move the cam to retard it one tooth. That'll put your mark on the camgear to the LEFT of where it was....I previously said to the right. Sorry about the confusion.

Currently your cam is ADVANCED 16 odd degrees [crankshaft]. Which is why the #6 ex valve appears to be shut @ TDC, whereas it should shut later in the cycle @ 19* ATDC. Also why your ignition is firing so early.
 
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Brian, Forgive me if I've misunderstood, but as the cam turns counterclockwise, turning it counterclockwise one tooth will advance it (? Won't it??).
I understand exactly what you are saying but believe it needs to go clockwise to have the effect you are saying.
That would mean the mark on the cam gear needs to be to the left (as viewed straight on) of the mark on the crank gear.

(Hope I've got this right)

Mart.
 
Yes Mart, I'm confusing the issue, you are correct; clockwise. I've edited my previous incorrect information. I need to read my 'motto' more often!! Lucky I only consider myself halfway there! lol
 
About advancing the cam. The cam gear is a bolt on and will fit only one way. I would have to pull the cam and gear forward enough to clear the crank gear before I could retard the cam. All the lifters would drop off the cam lobes, and the engine would have to have the heads and valve assemblies pulled to reinsert the cam. So, would elongation of the cam gear mounting holes be a reliable option to eliminate the necessity of pulling the cam? Should one be comfortable with the holding power of the 4 bolts to hold the cam long term?
 
Slot the holes on your cam when your happy drill and tap ,two additional holes between to lock it. I would , Get a distributor set up on a KR fixture ,accurately to find TDC ,bolt that to your motor and with a light set up in searys with the points re mark your pully,Your cam ran fine in another motor , Ted
 
Here's a link (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=270880&highlight=cam+degreeing+pinning) to some interesting reading I put up here a while back!

We degree check EVERY cam we install on EVERY build and move them when necessary!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. If you look closely to the photo you'll notice a "timing-pill" installed in the Flathead gear, this allows us to "move" the cam from "+6* to -6*" if ever needed, the other photo is how the cam is degree-checked before the assembly!
 

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A Kr would give you a 4Deg built in advance ,You could pull the gear out fit longer bolts rotate it to were you want cam and all ,(use a large bar or the like between the bolts ) when the tooths lined up screw the bolts in ,replace them later .Sorry for butting in on this thread , Ted
 
Russ/40 said:
About advancing the cam. The cam gear is a bolt on and will fit only one way. I would have to pull the cam and gear forward enough to clear the crank gear before I could retard the cam. All the lifters would drop off the cam lobes, and the engine would have to have the heads and valve assemblies pulled to reinsert the cam. So, would elongation of the cam gear mounting holes be a reliable option to eliminate the necessity of pulling the cam? Should one be comfortable with the holding power of the 4 bolts to hold the cam long term?
Click to expand...

If you are wanting to move it one tooth on the cam gear, wouldn't you unbolt the cam gear, reinstall it one tooth over, align the camshaft with the cam gear and bolt it back up?
 
Sometimes a cam can move just move the crank around , a zip lock doesn't give you 4 Deg , I could be wrong though
 
Russ/40 said:
About advancing the cam. The cam gear is a bolt on and will fit only one way. I would have to pull the cam and gear forward enough to clear the crank gear before I could retard the cam. All the lifters would drop off the cam lobes, and the engine would have to have the heads and valve assemblies pulled to reinsert the cam. So, would elongation of the cam gear mounting holes be a reliable option to eliminate the necessity of pulling the cam? Should one be comfortable with the holding power of the 4 bolts to hold the cam long term?
Click to expand...

I thought the theory proposed is that you want to retard the cam by one tooth.

Undo the gear, rotate the cam a little clockwise and refit the gear one tooth clockwise from where it was previously.

You don't need to worry about the lifters and such.
 
I would remove the cam gear & rotate the crankshaft the one tooth as it would be much easier to turn than turning the camshaft.
Phil
 
Ideucev8 said:
I would remove the cam gear & rotate the crankshaft the one tooth as it would be much easier to turn than turning the camshaft.
Phil
Click to expand...

Your the winner! The simplest and most clearly articulated for my feeble mind, thanks.

I have not degreed the cam yet. Got a lot going right now and it may be awhile.
 
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