Question on 32-33 body swap

T

THE "A" FAMILY

Senior Member
Will a 1933 ford model B, 1 1/2 ton, dually, all steel cab and front body fit on a 1932 car chassis? The chassis is all original and all stock. I want this to look like a standard 32-33 Pick Up Truck. Will it work and look original, or are the trucks two different sizes and am I just wasting my time?
 
The '33/'34 cab is slightly larger (longer and wider) than the '32;and the firewall was configured differently to provide more legroom; and the back of the cab has additional ribbing that the '32 does not. The front and rear fenders are completely different. And the bed on the '33/'34 is longer and wider than what's found on the '32.

The frames are not the same between the '32 and the '33/'34. The '33/'34 has a kickup in the front that the '32 does not have. And, of course, the grilleshells are different.

As I understand it, you can swap out the '33/'34 cab for the '32; but everything else will need to be '32.

The '33/'34 truck frame is the same as the car. Why not just start with the '33/'34 car or truck frame? The front fenders from the big trucks are slightly wider than the pickup truck fenders; however, they don't have the spare tire pocket, and many guys like that look.

I think I'd look around for the '33/'34 pickup truck or car frrame and use that as my base. Easier in the longrun. But it would turn on whether I had the rear pickup truck fenders. They are almost impossible to find anymore in steel (readily available in fiberglass). The only advantage that I see of going the '32 route is that the Brookville repops are available. Otherwise, I dunno....I'd stick with the '33/'34.
 
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Thanks for the info, Phartman. You have given me lots of info that I did not know. I have Model A's but have been wanting a 32-34 truck for a while. I guess I need to learn more before I spend money.
 
The last two 32 pickups I built used 33 cabs which are exactly the same size as a 32. The 33 cab has the same ribing on the back of the cab as a 32. The extra rib was added in 34. They added a welded in firewall in 33 and the top was bolted to the A pillar instead of being welded like 32s and it had a body ridge at the back of the visor area to I assume add some strength. The dash was the same shape but with the center closed in with 3 gauge holes. It was easy to use the 33 cab in place of a 32 cab on a 32 frame but the front sheet metal on a 33/34 is all different from a 32. If your sheet metal is good I agree with Phartman to use a 33/34 pu frame which is the same as car but with different body mounting holes. Also you will need a 33/34 bed as the wheel area is further back on the side due to the 6" increase in wheelbase.
 
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Krylon brought up a couple "gives" as far as recognizing differences in the cabs. The extra rib in the back is one. The other is the stretched wheelbase. If you look at the area of the bed in front of the rear wheel, you'll see the 6" stretch on the '33/'34 bed. On the '32 bed, the front radius of the rear fenders is almost at the very front of the bed. No so on the '33/'34.
 
Phartman and Krylon32,
you both have given lots of information. thank you very much. i have been looking around for a complete truck. they are hard to find. my truck is also with out a bed and back fenders, it is an old flat bed.
thanks a bunch
 
The bolt-on top, the ribbed visor, and the strainer under the center of the visor were all running changes during 1932.
 
I've had about a dozen cabs and forgot to mention that the later 32 had the changes David mentioned as they moved closer to the 33 year. I currently have a 32 cab with a ribbed visor, strainer and welded top. How many different factories did they produce cabs at? That would address all the varying combinations. On a couple of my cabs I think the tops were changed. That welded seam on the A pillar always seems to eventually get a crack no matter how you do it.
 
Budd produced the cabs for Ford, likely in KD (knocked down) form to save on shipping costs. With the appropriate fixtures, they could be readily constructed at any assembly plant (and just about all of them did). Dropping the metal-finished joints between the roof and the cowl pillars made that job even easier. They were pretty bare bones cabs, with no upholstery beyond the seats and windlacing and unsophisticated door fits and were priced accordingly ($90 when purchased with a commercial or truck chassis).

The '32 cab that I have is a very late one with the characteristics mentioned above and a engine-turned instrument panel face.
 
Hello Just my 2 cents worth. If you are *ell bent on making/fakeing a 33 cab into a 32 the 2 rib rear is the same. The cowl firewall spotwelds would need to be drilled out and there are lots of them. Then a donor 32 cowl would be needed again drilling out the spotwelds. If you have an original 32 dash (firewall) bolt it to your 32 frame. next fit the u-shaped donor cowl pc.& bolt it in place with the (2) 7/16" bolts . Mount the body and then plug weld up all the drilled out spot weld holes. carefully grind the plug welds flush . a 32 dommercial type belt rail finish panel (dash) with the big oval hole AND a commercial (shorter) dash tunnel will provide you with a nearly perfect 32 TRIBUTE cab. NOTE you must have the u-shaped original 32 donor cowl pc to make this happen. Lots of work but worth it if a 32 is what you want.
 
When I did my 32 trucks using the 33 cab I left the stock 33 firewall as there was a little more legroom and on one of them I installed air and the 33 firewall gave me a little more room under the dash. With the hood closed nobody could tell?
 
true blue 32 man said:
Hello Just my 2 cents worth. If you are *ell bent on making/fakeing a 33 cab into a 32...

...Lots of work but worth it if a 32 is what you want.
Click to expand...

The floor needs changes, too. The forward sections of the sub-rails are a different length and the holes for the three mounting bolts that go through the brackets and sub-rails at the base of the cowl are in slightly different locations between years.
 
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