Question for "rattle can" painters

36tudordeluxe

36tudordeluxe

Well-known member
Have some small pieces that have been bead blasted, in the past have used Rust-oleum gloss enamel & Rust-oleum 2X primer and the finish looks great but wasn't very durable, chips & scratches easily. Would scuffing up the bead blasted surfaces with 80 grit & let the parts dry in front of a heater (baked on) increase durability? Any suggestions appreciated. Maybe I'm expecting too much from rattle can application?
 
I have had good results in the past with a self etching primer such as Duplicolor sold at Napa. Followed by the same brand color of choice. Rust-o-leum paints i never had luck with.
 
In my experience, spray enamel durability comes with the number of coats. Four even coats minimum for car parts.

Lonnie
 
Rattle can paint will never have the durability that automotive paint does due to the fact that it has no hardener in it.
Rustoleum is an oil based enamel as compared to Krylon or Duplicolor that are acrylic based.
The biggest problem with Rustoleum comes when it is time to repaint as most other Rattle can paints won't stick to it very well.
My local auto paint supplier will put paint with hardener in it in a rattle can. But you have a limited time to use it.
If you know how much you need to do the job this may be an option for you.
Torchie.
 
For shiny black I use Rustoleum flat black first and then use Rustoleum gloss clear over the flat black. The flat paint dries very fast so you can add the clear in a short amount of time. I put as many coats of clear on as needed for the look I want. The clear is softer than a gloss black paint so it doesn't chip as easily. The clear can also be fine sanded and buffed out.
 
I have found out that using a good metal primer first before putting on the finishing color makes the paint very durable and goes on without any runs. Much better than the paints with primer built in.
 
I have found that a good durable spray paint is both Rustoleum and VHT Engine enamel if you want a gloss finish. Available at Auto Zone, Wal Mar and Lowes.
 
I love all the Duplicolor products - have painted flames, over body work, parts, etc and have great results. Remember prep is 98% of the final results.
 
I have used Krylon and Duplicolor rattle can paint for many many years on engine compartments, splash pans and mechanical components, I prefer the satin-semi gloss in lieu of gloss..I generally use an etching primer.
Rustoleum is a very good product for yard furniture, etc. don't care for it on automotive parts.
I have found that the use of a spray can handle, in lieu of just a finger, will produce better results..
 
Been using Duplicolor for years , very good results. I have a friend that painted his car with it. Looks good for the last 15 years. Lets it dry real well and wet sands and buffs it out.
 
Okay, used Duplicolor Acrylic enamel & self etching primer and got a much more durable finish, gave it the thumbnail test and was unable to scrape off finish. The enamel paint unfortunately wasn't high gloss, my mistake, more of a semi gloss but will work for me.
 
I've used Rustoleum for engine room parts and had fair success. The biggest concern is that the cans vary in color/luster, so they don't all give the same outcome.
 
Hopefully everyone has learned from years of self-abuse and now we realize a respirator is necessary even when rattle can spraying. Even if you spray outside, the paint will swirl up and get in you lungs. Of course you never see respirators worn in magazine articles or TV commercials.
 
I've used the rattle can 2 step clear a few times, available at all paint supply stores and it works great and very hard finish. You charge the can then use it and it's a one time thing so have everything ready you want to paint.
 
Rustolem and Krylon are one in the same company now. Look for Seymore brand spray paint. Make yourself a paint shaker using the sawzall. You will not believe the difference in the paint.
 
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