Question about hand cranking flathead

2

2001GTTT

Member
Hi all, I’m trying to get the flathead in my 52 f2 to turn over. I’m going clockwise with a breaker bar on the crank and the bolt is turning, but the pulley isn’t. Shouldn’t my pulley and accessories be spinning too or am I wrong??

Thank you.
 
If only the bolt is turning it could be loose.
But it may be a good idea to remove the bolt and inspect the threads to see if there is any indication of 'stripping'
And also make sure it's not in gear.
 
51 MERC-CT said:
If only the bolt is turning it could be loose.
But it may be a good idea to remove the bolt and inspect the threads to see if there is any indication of 'stripping'
And also make sure it's not in gear.
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It turns with pretty good resistance but it just keeps turning. It’s out of gear also.

1931 flamingo said:
Might turn over easier if you remove the spark plugs................
Paul in CT
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They are out thank you sir
 
Slightly off topic, but my 47 has the hole through the grill and the angled cut slots in the bolt head for a hand crank, could these cars be started with a hand crank or was that just for turning the motor over while not running.
 
Ford kept the capability to hand crank a lot longer than they needed to. If the bolt has the starting dogs on there then it can be hand cranked. I don't think my arm could take a kick back even if pulling so I wouldn't try it. The old Model A cars aren't too bad since they can be manually retarded but the V8 can sure give you a Ford fracture if the timing is too far advanced.
 
Remember to hold the crank with your thumb side by side with your fingers. If the motor happens to Kick back, It won't take your thumb. This is important.
 
Twenty years ago, I had a 1948 Seagrave open cab pumper with the Pierce-Arrow sourced 468 ci flathead V12. That engine had dual carbs (one for each bank) and two 12 cylinder dual coil distributors. It would idle down to 350 RPM and just sit there, purring away. It also had a hand crank, and was surprisingly easy to start that way. We won a lot of beers betting that we could hand start it. (It had to be warmed up for it to work every time.)
 
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rotorwrench said:
Ford kept the capability to hand crank a lot longer than they needed to. If the bolt has the starting dogs on there then it can be hand cranked. I don't think my arm could take a kick back even if pulling so I wouldn't try it. The old Model A cars aren't too bad since they can be manually retarded but the V8 can sure give you a Ford fracture if the timing is too far advanced.
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Way to long, but they where the every man builder. Probably easier to pull it with another vehicle or push it down hill. I have the correct tool set for my 38 to hand crank it. Never tried. My, sold, 28 model A was started a few times from crank for fun.

If the crank isn't turning when you pry it then you have an issue of sort. If the belt and gen doesn't, maybe the belt is loose.


Low compression makes it easier.
 
Trying to get a stuck motor turning with a breakerbar you first crush the washer if later type then deform the nut/pulley and last strip the threads.
See the completely crushed washers a lot on cores coming in for rebuild.
A breakerbar is a lot more force then a crank...
And when you get the crank moving and the valves are stuck in the guides...next to crush is the lifter...no easy shortcuts...
 
flatheadmurre said:
Trying to get a stuck motor turning with a breakerbar you first crush the washer if later type then deform the nut/pulley and last strip the threads.
See the completely crushed washers a lot on cores coming in for rebuild.
A breakerbar is a lot more force then a crank...
And when you get the crank moving and the valves are stuck in the guides...next to crush is the lifter...no easy shortcuts...
Click to expand...


The bolt turns but not the pulley. Gonna try to dig in a little more today if I get time.
 
If the threads get messed up in the crank snout, it would still be good for an early short snout application with a little machine work.
 
ponymare said:
If you're lucky you only stripped the bolt, and not the threads in the crank.
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We shall see

JSeery said:
Back the bolt out and look it over first.
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That’s my next step

rotorwrench said:
If the threads get messed up in the crank snout, it would still be good for an early short snout application with a little machine work.
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Trying to get this thing to atleast crank the easy way lol
tubman said:
BIG helicoil?
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Going to see
 
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