Quarter window's seal ?

G

Greg way out West

Member


Hi guy's


I looked at the quarter window's rubber seal with the new Safey glass in place..Just not a good fit as far as sealing water out ...I check the old plate glass thinkness & it's not that much difference from the new "Glass" I can push the glass in alittle ( too the body )



I don't want to put the old plate back in,,,, Is there a fix ?..Spacer,,different rubber gasket ? I pretty sure it will leak when I wash the car or it rain's...any idea's ???


Thank's Greg
 
Since it has been a few days and no responses, let me start by asking has the wood around the windows been replaced? Yes, the glass is actually pushed towards the sheetmetal to make the seal.
 
Unless you are concerned about fine point inspections, I have found that a careful application of a 3M quality windshield sealant will insure that the joint won't leak. You still will need to insure that the window glass and the seal are very tight against the sheetmetal. Gar Williams
 


Hi Brent,,


Yes, I installed all new wood in the body...I measured the thinkness & it's about 1 1/8th thick..I was thinking maybe that's the problem...


I know the window frame should tightening the glass & seal to the body. I measure the glass thickness,,, Old plate is .270,,,The new safey glass is .240...I wouldn't think .030 difference would be a big deal for not sealing flush



I'am thinking the glass "seal coulds be thicker...Way back I used this rubber from the orginal Ford Obsolete,,,It had a small round "lip" on the outter edge that sealed real good..I guess that wasn't original...but fit great


Maybe I can use some kind of spacer between the inside window frame and glass to get it tight ?

Y/T, Greg out west
 
I assume you're working on a coupe...
One of the biggest suppiers for that window channel is Auveco. I've looked through their master catalog and have noticed they manufacture more than one size of that shaped rubber channel.
It seems that shaped channel was used by various other car makers over a realatively broad range of years, with subtle changes in shape or size.
Auveco would not have one box marked "Model A" ...instead each box will give exact dimensions and a corrosponding part number.
I wonder if there's a chance that Model A supply houses are shipped different shapes/sizes by whoever happens to be the warehouse picker that day?
http://www.atrim.com/Page153.html

My "second hunch" automatically defaults to offshore quality goods.
This has been flogged to death, so I'll leave it there....

For a remedy which should seal your existing setup...
you could obtain a roll of 1/16 or 1/8 x 1/4 black butyl glazing tape at a local glass shop.
....the old glass guys call it "40-40 tape"
Take out the window and press a bead (just like bubble gum) around the inside of the painted window opening so it follows the edge. Make an overlap join at the top.
Next tighten the window & seal against the soft butyl so it gishes out. The excess can be trimmed off with a popsicle stick ...with some stick trimming & practice you can cut a perfect edge by holding the stick just right and the wood won't mark your paint job.
Some benefits of using butyl on your vintage car is:
-it's what they used in the day
-it softens and reseals itself on warm sunny days
-it leaches minute traces of harmless oily residue into surrounding metal which is a wonderfull rust deterant.

It's wise to avoid silicone sealant which does the exact opposite and promotes rusting of bare metal, especially deep within cracks and cavities of the car body.
 
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