putting the leaf spring back together

theodore

theodore

Junior Member
I just finished rebuilding the differential on my 34 roadster and need to reassemble the rear :confused: leaf spring.I could sure use some advice an how to do this without injuring myself.The spring is old and rusty and very stiff.
 
I think this is how I did this job in the past. Others may have better ideas. First clean up the springs and apply some heavy grease between the leaves. Use a pair of heavy duty, say 8 inch, clamps to squeeze the leaves back together. For safety wrap several turns of rope or strap around the spring assembly in case the clamps slip off. When the assembly is tight enough to get the nut to start on the through bolt put it on. Sometimes it helps to use an extra long bolt to pull the leaves together.
 
Get a piece of all thread, stack the leaves, put the all thread in the hole with a nut on the bottom and one on top. Turn one of the nuts so the spring compresses. When compressed, clamp it securely (use a screw type C-clamp), remove the all thread and insert the regular bolt.
 
It took me a moment to figure out what all thread is in paul2748's response. We call it threaded rod, but he has given you the simplest way to do this. I always place the spring in a vice once I have compressed it with the threaded rod (making sure you can install the center bolt). Use a screw type C-clamp as added safety and you can install the center bolt with no problem. Once the center bolt is safely installed, relieve the pressure gradually and align the leafs.
 
piece of all thread and when its tight some HUGE C clamos and clamp it tight, remove the all thread slowly then install center bolt......
 
theodore said:
I just finished rebuilding the differential on my 34 roadster and need to reassemble the rear :confused: leaf spring.I could sure use some advice an how to do this without injuring myself.The spring is old and rusty and very stiff.
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I read this as how do I connect the spring to the shackles/ rear housing. If so, I'd clamp the spring ( big c-clamp) install the all-thread with nuts finger tight then remove the clamp and slowly loosen the nuts allowing the spring to come apart. Then you can clean the leaves, paint them, grease or use spring liners and improve the ride quality of your Ford. You can install the shackes to the main leaf, which is much easier to stretch, then reassemble the spring pack using the all-thread and c-clamp as described. You can also install the spring using a spring spreader, but that can be dangerous without experience.
 
after the leafs are cleaned and lighly lubed i install the main leaf on the axle, then i get a long cener boit, stack the rest of the leaves, put the center bolt thru the leafs, the bolt is long enough to go thru all leafs then put on nut, and using two heavy duty quality clamps i start compressing the springs and keeping the nut tight on the spring pack, when all the leafs are compressed and bolt tight i cut off the excess of center bolt and remove the clamps slowly, that way i dont have to relie completly on the clamps when compressing, and i dont have to remove the center bolt to install the center bolt,and the spring is together and installed on the axle
 
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I used a home made tool. four pieces of half inch all thread and it had 2 pieces of steal plate with 4 holes drilled in all 4 corners. I put the main spring on first, then put all the other levees in side the tool. then tighten up the hole thing and sandwich the hole thing together, so you won't put a lot of pressure on the spring bolt this thing worked great! sorry you need 8 half inch nuts for the all thread. so the 2 plates can be tightened up . I haven't had my coffee yet I hope this makes sense... Brendan
 
I used "Never Seize" (anti seize compound) between my spring sections. It works better than grease and I really made a difference in the ride.
 
Vern Tardel and others do not recommend using lubricants between the spring leaves. They report they work fine without it, as friction is part on the process. They apparently didn't not come from the factory lubricated. Any other opinions on that ?
 
russcc said:
Vern Tardel and others do not recommend using lubricants between the spring leaves. They report they work fine without it, as friction is part on the process. They apparently didn't not come from the factory lubricated. Any other opinions on that ?
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Grease is a catch-all for dirt, unless the spring has leather gaiters.
 
After cleaning and painting each leaf I used Drake spring liners which comes in a roll.Measure and make accurate cuts as there is just enough and no extra when you are done.You end up removing the top leaf and 1 leaf on the lower(what is grouped in that U clamp) part because of the liner thickness.I used a very long bolt or rod to line up before assy and then 2 large C clamps to tighten up.I then remove that line up bolt and reuse the orig bolt.Do this on a flat surface and there is no danger.Re install spring on the rear axle.
 
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