Putting oil in distributor shaft.

leadpot

leadpot

Senior Member
Pulled the distributor out of my 29 & the inside of the shaft housing was dry, even had small amount of rust. I believe I have the 2 piece shaft, bottom of the distributor keys into another shaft at the bottom of the housing.
My question is should I pull the shaft occasionally and add oil? Could not find any info on lubricating the housing so may not even be necessary.

Thanks,
 
There should be oilers on the body and it will flow on the shaft. you can clean things up and oil it manually. Outside of the body it really doesn't need lube except a bit of grease on the tangs where they meet.
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Slide the cover back and fill the oiler on the side of the distributor. Do it often, as you can't over oil the distributor.
 
when you have the distributor out and after you pour some oil down the hole. smear a bunch of grease in the hole and on the shaft. it will help keeping the rust from forming.
 
We have oiled the distributor and generator at least every 100 miles for the last 40 years.

We also put car on car lift and pressure grease fittings every 200 to 250 miles. Steering box and u-joint included using John Deere Cornhead grease on them.

I don’t think you can over lubricate these cars.
 
Sorry Tom & WHN but yes it is possible to over grease just like you could over fill the oil pan.


Not all 'modern improvements' are improvements. Over oiling a distributor shaft with a hole in the top set screw can sling oil on to the points.


Pump a lot of grease into both front brake cross shafts and see where it winds up....down the brake pin, to the operating wedges and finally onto the linings.


Two mistakes I've made that now you don't have to !


JB
 
A thermostat will help prevent condensation rust in the dist shaft hole by getting the engine up to temperature and boiling it off
 
jb-ob said:
Sorry Tom & WHN but yes it is possible to over grease just like you could over fill the oil pan.


Not all 'modern improvements' are improvements. Over oiling a distributor shaft with a hole in the top set screw can sling oil on to the points.


Pump a lot of grease into both front brake cross shafts and see where it winds up....down the brake pin, to the operating wedges and finally onto the linings.


Two mistakes I've made that now you don't have to !


JB
Click to expand...



Also is easy to over grease the water pump, end up with a clogged radiator.
 
Just about all the distributors I rebuild are found to have had the tunnel the oiler fits into plugged solid with crud. This condition will prevent any oil put in the oiler from reaching the shaft and the bushings. The remedy is to remove the oiler, which in many cases will destroy it, and run a 1\4" drill bit thought the tunnel to clear the crud. This is best done during an overhaul where the shaft and the bushings have been removed.


Tom Endy
 
Tom Endy said:
Just about all the distributors I rebuild are found to have had the tunnel the oiler fits into plugged solid with crud. This condition will prevent any oil put in the oiler from reaching the shaft and the bushings. The remedy is to remove the oiler, which in many cases will destroy it, and run a 1\4" drill bit thought the tunnel to clear the crud. This is best done during an overhaul where the shaft and the bushings have been removed.


Tom Endy
Click to expand...
Built a good distributor from parts last year and the oil holes on all 3 cores I had were plugged solid. Definitely worth looking at.
 
The crud that plugs the oiler channel is a combination of dirt, oil by-products, and wear particles from the bushings and the shaft. During the life of the distributor housing, if the channel has never been cleaned it is an almost certainty that the channel is plugged solid.


Often during an overhaul where the shaft and bushings were replaced, the oiler was not removed and the channel not cleaned out because the oiler is difficult to remove and the thought was it is not necessary.


Removal of the oiler is accomplished by pulling the spring load back and clamping a small pair of vice grips around the oiled from the bottom and twisting back and forth while pulling outward. Some are in there very tight and they may be rendered unusable when they are finally removed.

Anytime you are rebuilding a distributor it is imperative that the oiler be removed and the channel cleaned out. Some are packed so tight with crud that in order to get a 1\4" drill bit through, a drill motor has to be employed.

I make it a practice to remove the distributor from the engine during each oil change. I clamp it in a vice and dress up the points with a file and reset them. I clean the top plate and the casting and apply cam lube to the cam and add oil to the oiler. If the cam nut is not disturbed the distributor can go back into the engine without the need to re-set the timing.


Tom Endy
 
If you have time and dont want to damage the oil filler on it, take it apart pull back on the oiler cap and put in a cotter pin to hold it open.Then put the whole thing in a can or bucket of carb cleaner over night, next day its clean.. I then remove oiler and glass bead complete unit & rebuild it..
 
jb-ob said:
Sorry Tom & WHN but yes it is possible to over grease just like you could over fill the oil pan.


Not all 'modern improvements' are improvements. Over oiling a distributor shaft with a hole in the top set screw can sling oil on to the points.


Pump a lot of grease into both front brake cross shafts and see where it winds up....down the brake pin, to the operating wedges and finally onto the linings.


Two mistakes I've made that now you don't have to !


JB
Click to expand...
I don't use the shafts with the redesigned top oil hole.
I meant you can't over oil the original distributor design. I fill my oil cup often.
 
jb-ob said:
Sorry Tom & WHN but yes it is possible to over grease just like you could over fill the oil pan.


Not all 'modern improvements' are improvements. Over oiling a distributor shaft with a hole in the top set screw can sling oil on to the points.


Pump a lot of grease into both front brake cross shafts and see where it winds up....down the brake pin, to the operating wedges and finally onto the linings.


Two mistakes I've made that now you don't have to !


JB
Click to expand...

We don’t have the added hole you are talking about in our distributor. Have never had any oil inside distributor.

Also, did complete brake job on car 1,200 miles ago. There was no excess grease inside brake drums or around backing plate. We don’t over grease, just want all parts to have lubricant on them.

Ford recommended oil change and body lube every 500 miles. Dry parts rub together and ware out faster. You can over lube and you can under lube. Car owner has to use his head. Enjoy.
 
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