Putting model a on lift

Licensed to kill said:
I am NOT an engineer (not by a long shot) and am relatively new to model A's, but I THINK I have a working understanding of the engineering that Henry Ford (or was it Edsel?) put into the design of the model A and Where Jack Shaft is coming from. The "strength" of the model A comes from the triangulation of the radius rods and axles as well as the torque tube/trans/engine. This is what gives the "A" it's diagonal strength (keeps everything square). However, I have given this a lot of thought ( and studied my own "A" that is sitting on my 2 post lift, lifted by the frame as I write this and still fail to see the relevance of this triangulated chassis strength as it would relate to the vertical pressures when lifting the car by the frame. No matter how i look at it, the entire weight of the body is being supported by the front and rear cross member ONLY. That weight is transferred to the frame rails at the cross member points and as such, I fail to understand how supporting the weight from where the cross members attach to the frame rails is functionally stronger than supporting it from four solid points inboard of the two cross members. In fact, where the fame is free to flex when only REALLY supported by 2 central points (front spring mount and rear spring mount) it is held relatively rigid when lifted from 4. Anyway, like I said, I am NOT an engineer so I may be WAY off here but I have yet to figure out how the triangulated strength designed into the chassis has any relevance to lifting vertically. Opinion subject to change pending compelling arguments to the contrary.
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Agreed. The engine and transmission hang off the frame and the front and rear wishbones attach to them. All that stress isn't transferred somehow to the frame?
 
PotvinV8 said:
My car is altered and thus so, incorrect, and I will probably die.

That said, you still haven't answered the op's question. How would YOU lift a Model A with a 2-post lift? How would you remove the front or rear suspension without that lighweight frame crumbling from all that weight?
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No,your rear axle isnt properly supported from torque roll,putting more stress on the radius rods. Anything other than a trunion will bind as the suspension works..worked on an automatic transmission conversion,open driveshaft..radius rod bolts were worked so loose the axle would roll 30 degrees when torque was applied to it. Open driveshaft? change rear suspension...want stock rear suspension with a T5? buy the torque tube adapter..

I wouldn't try to use a two post lift with a model a if it were mine,for the reasons I stated..you can do otherwise,I defended the right for you to do as you wish with your property.The next time you see a bare model a frame pick up one corner..without boxing it I wouldn't count on it for a lift support or an open driveshaft application..
 
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I have used a 2 post lift for years. I have paint marks on the floor so it is easy to get the A
in the same place every time. I set front driver side first , near motor mount behind steering on frame. The rear driver side is near yoke behind rivet in frame ( things are crowded here) . Opposite side matches across. My lift pads adjust. Good Luck
 
I made these extensions for my hoist.
 

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Jack Shaft said:
No,your rear axle isnt properly supported from torque roll,putting more stress on the radius rods. ..
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There's a third link attached to the front radius rod and the top of the rearend housing that controls torque roll. The radius rods are still left to do the same job as before.

I agree that the Model A frame is lightweight and by design made to flex but surely you see the difference between lifting one corner and lifting the chassis evenly at four.

That pic with the chainfall is frightening, i don't care if that's how it was done "back in the day"! LOL
 
Afordman31 , that's pretty much what I did , except yours and PotvinV8's looks more professionally made , but mine gets the job done , thanks , pictures are always better IMHO

Vern
 
Fhane said:
If a 4 door phaeton was lifted by the frame and the door alignment changed you would know that lifting by the frame is not as good as a drive on lift. I remember back in the fifty’s lifting a convertible a hardtop without a door post, with a 2 post lift on the frame would change the door alignment so they wouldn’t open. Back on four wheels the doors would work. Me, I like a drive on lift with jacking beams.
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I agree!

Simple answer. Drive on lifts were the way to go, back in the day.

If I need all four wheels off the ground, I jack up the car putting stands under each corner using axels not frame.

Enjoy.
 
I recently had the opportunity to put my car on a four post lift. I did ask him how he would say change a wheel bearing. He showed me his "shelf" which rolls between the two ramps and hence can put a bottle jack on and than put a jack stand to hold that side of the car up! Of course I just drooled over this set up !!
 
I use a 4 post lift. I drive the car up on the ramps and the car is fully supported from the wheels. I can do the following with a 4 post lift:
Change oil
Do all the lubrication on clevices, etc.
Grease all fittings
Change the gear oil in the differential and transmission

When I want to do bearings or brakes, I have cross pieces I can move to get jack stands under all 4 wheels. Presently all 4 wheels are on jackstands because the rims are out for powder coat.

I have even done wiring while the car is on the lift.

I recommend a 4 post lift...drive up on it, raise the car up hydraulically and you are good to go. CAUTION CAUTION...as with any lift be sure to use the safety locks. DO not ever get under a lift unless it is locked. I knew someone who was killed from a lift that was not locked.

If you want pictures of my set up, you can message me. I got my lift at an auction for $400. It is an EAGLE lift.
 
I have used a 2 post-Challenger le10 for a couple of years now. you will need to purchase the extensions to allow the proper height on the liftin pads. It takes patience to work pads around the brake rods and electrical for the brake lights. You MUST take note and balance the weight properly for safety purposes It does get a little easier each time you do it.
 
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