I have 1 broken push rod to replace. It measures end to end about 8 3/32 in. and is 1/4 in. dia. All the ones that I can find that say they are for this engine are 5/16 dia. and are longer. I did find one that is a Melling MPR-73 which is 7.96 in. but it is 5/16 dia. also. It seems like a larger dia. would not seat in the lifter correctly or would it work. If not where can I find the original size one?
Push rods for '59 292 cu in.
- Thread starter metro1
- Start date
Crankster
Well-known member
Before I forget to mention it, please keep in mind there was a run of aftermarket pushrods with (too small) improper socket clearance to fit properly with the ball adjuster, these tend to crack or break easily. Probably still some out there, lurking. Whatever you choose, make sure they fit the ball/socket properly.
There is some leeway in the pushrod length. Or put another way, after these many years many changes could have been made to the heads and such. So kind of want to look at both what is installed now, and also, where the ball adjusters are at right now in their adjustment when lash is set.
Are the ball adjusters all about "midway" in their travel, i.e. roughly an equal number of threads top and bottom? If you're really picky, could have custom length pushrods made. They are surprisingly affordable.
There is some leeway in the pushrod length. Or put another way, after these many years many changes could have been made to the heads and such. So kind of want to look at both what is installed now, and also, where the ball adjusters are at right now in their adjustment when lash is set.
Are the ball adjusters all about "midway" in their travel, i.e. roughly an equal number of threads top and bottom? If you're really picky, could have custom length pushrods made. They are surprisingly affordable.
The new set of pushrods I put in my original 239 Y-Block last year were a bit longer and thicker than the originals were. I was concerned about that, so I started a thread before the installation, as well as talking to some folks over at Y-Blocks forever forum. To make a long story short, there was basically no problem, but of course I had to reset my valve lash. I don't remember all of the particulars of the installation, but here's a link to that thread. BTW, my new pushrods were from Elgin, a reputable company, and they were the only ones they listed for my car, a '54 wagon. So far I've had no issues whatsoever with the new rods, but I can't speak with any knowledge on your 292...other than you may consider replacing the whole set than just one. And make sure you address the issue that caused the broken pushrod. Good luck.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=300510
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=300510
Last edited:
55blacktie
BANNED
Metro, first of all, you need to determine why the pushrod broke and correct the problem.As it's been said, different heads used different pushrod lengths. You can find that information at ford-y-block.com. Even though your engine is a 59, your heads might not be original to the engine. You can check the aforementioned site for that as well.
I recommend replacing all of your pushrods with tubular, check the condition of your valve springs, and replace, as needed.
I recommend replacing all of your pushrods with tubular, check the condition of your valve springs, and replace, as needed.
dmsfrr
Well-known member
From that link...
http://ford-y-block.com/rockerarm.htm
PUSH ROD LENGTH (Effective)
1954-55 3/16" radius ball 8.11"
1956-59 3/16" radius ball 7.98"
1960-64 3/16" radius ball 8.11"
Cylinder head ID chart...
http://ford-y-block.com/cylinderheadchart.htm
KULTULZ
Well-known member
The push-rods bend as a result of bad engineering. This is common on the FYB as well as the FE. You want tubular hardened replacement push-rods. You need to ascertain the condition of the rocker arm pads as they wear quickly. If you studied the FYB valve-train (rocker arm offsets) you would understand why.
The varying length rods were as a result of FORD using varying rocker arm ratios and adjustment screws over production life. If any components have been changed during the service life, it will change the geometry and you need to study VALVE-TRAIN GEOMETRY. This is true on any push-rod engine.
- https://www.fordmuscle.com/news/video-achieving-proper-rocker-arm-geometry-with-comp/
The fellows over at y-blocksforver.com seem to agree ISKY is the best source for valve-train components. Also consider a new set of springs.
The varying length rods were as a result of FORD using varying rocker arm ratios and adjustment screws over production life. If any components have been changed during the service life, it will change the geometry and you need to study VALVE-TRAIN GEOMETRY. This is true on any push-rod engine.
- https://www.fordmuscle.com/news/video-achieving-proper-rocker-arm-geometry-with-comp/
The fellows over at y-blocksforver.com seem to agree ISKY is the best source for valve-train components. Also consider a new set of springs.
Crankster
Well-known member
Running old, stale oxidized gasoline is a classic method to bend pushrods. It will burn but it tends to gum up valve stems in the guides, dries to a kind of glue. Maybe that isn't what happened here, but it's something to keep in mind.
Should at least inspect the other pushrods. A piece of plate glass will serve as a flat surface, narrow enough to allow the ends to hang over. Roll them to and fro, and look for obvious wobble or runout. I'd have to look it up to be sure but I think the limit might be .005". In other words, not very much. With the valve closed, when installed the pushrod can be spun with your fingers due to lash, and gross bends will be clearly visible in a strong light that way, too.
Should at least inspect the other pushrods. A piece of plate glass will serve as a flat surface, narrow enough to allow the ends to hang over. Roll them to and fro, and look for obvious wobble or runout. I'd have to look it up to be sure but I think the limit might be .005". In other words, not very much. With the valve closed, when installed the pushrod can be spun with your fingers due to lash, and gross bends will be clearly visible in a strong light that way, too.
Ole Don
Well-known member
At one time, there were aftermarket six cylinder Ford pushrods that came close enough to use. They were 5/16, and had the correct ball ends. I bought one set where the ball on top was so deep, the aftermarket high lift cam bottomed out the ball at full lift. The pushrods were made with two ridges around the top. I just ground down the head to the second ridge and deburred it, then it was all good.