Pump Installation

JOES31

JOES31

Senior Member
I am installing a new water pump tomorrow and was wondering if I should use a sealant on the gasket. The old one didn't look like any was used. If I should which one. Permatex, Yamabond, Indian Head? Any anti seize on the bolts? The studs were easy to remove except the top passenger side. That one made up for the easy ones but enough heat and it gave up.

I am using one from Snyder's, no leak greaseless with a new 2blade fan.

Looks pretty straightforward. Anything Suggestions are appreciated.
 
i used silicone of some kind on the gasket because it was made from a cardboard box beer carton from some workshops floor but if i used a real gasket there is a chance no sealant would have been perfectly fine.
 
Make sure if alloy fan you use a thin steel washer before the nut , otherwise the nut chews into the alloy fan & may come loose.Thin smear of gorilla snot is ok.
Winter arrived in NZ , nearly time to head north.
 
I use the mounting kit from Snyders. This is bolts that are made to resemble studs with nuts This will make water pump removal easier with the radiator in place.. Back in the day, I just used bolts from the hardware store but these look close enough to original to fool some people..

I usually don't use sealer on the gasket but it sure won't hurt. If I used a sealer, I would use Permatex. I always use antisieze on the the trheads that enter the head. If you use original type studs, only use antisieze on the threads that enter the head and none on the threads where the nuts attach
 
Just got the pump. Maybe a problem. When I spin the pump, (not on the car), I see the front bearing spinning in the pump housing. Isn't the outer bearing supposed to be stationary? What good is the bearing if the outer part spins in the casting?

Just got it from Snyder's. Do I install? Snyder's is closed can't call till Monday.

Any advice?
 
Might even have to wait till Tuesday.
Is this a leakless pump?

I've always rebuilt pumps exactly as original and they are leakless, but on these aftermarket leakless pumps, doesn't the front bearing lock the shaft in position?
If the outer race spins in the housing, them something is wrong.
 
Yes it is a leakless with a front sealed bearing. This is basically a new spun bearing. These repo parts are crap. Sorry guys you don't see this on the 60 and 70's repo parts. Geez how can these things be restored with these parts?
 
Are you sure it is the bearing that is spinning? I have seen leakless pumps with a collar that is locked to the shaft with a set screw to control shaft end play.
 
are you sure about the spun bearing. the exploded diagram of the leakless pump shows a roller bearing inside hidden by a washer on the outside
 

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What???? The front bearing is pressed on the shaft. Then the shaft with the bearing has to be pressed into the pump housing. The pump housing keeps the outer part of the bearing from spinning. When you turn the pump shaft it turns the outer race of the bearing in the housing. Install it like that and the housing will be gouged out in no time not to mention the noise it will make.

It's definitely a bad pump. No quality control.
 
if i recall a couple of the water pump bolt holes are not blind holes and go into the coolant.
on those i use a little sealer on the threads. i could be wrong maybe someone could verify that.
i also use the fake bolt/studs purdy mentioned and install the gasket dry.
 
Mitch
This pump is the leakless with sealed lifetime bearings. Not the one in the diagram you posted. That one has the packing and the bearings you must grease every 500 miles. That is the one I now have and went bad.

Yes you are correct on the bolts. The passenger upper bolt goes into the water jacket in the head. It took a lot o heat to get that stud out. So I will use anti seize on it. Might help getting it out the next time.
 
Mitch
Snyder's has the same diagram for the A8502-B and the A8503-B. The 8503-B is the same as the A8502-b except it has the cartridge without packing in the nut. The nut is there just for the look. And if that's not enough the diagram is a diagram of the original pumps with the caged bearings. They call them needle bearings. I was confused with the diagrams too so I called them before I bought the pump. I might be able to find a pump locally and get the job done.

I would post a pic if I could figure out how.
 
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I'm not familiar with the ball front bearing that Snyders uses with their leak proof water pumps . The original setup diagram that Mitch pictures, the front bearing is full floating. Bratton sells a modern front bearing that used a sleeve that presses on to the shaft. The bearing rolls on the sleeve but is full floating in the pump housing. I rebuild my own water pumps. I use the modern front bearing from Brattons because it has better tolerance than the original style replacement bearings. Better tolerance of the front bearing makes the shaft more stable at the rear for a better seal. A loose front bearing with too much tolerance effects the stability of the water pump shaft and effects the seal at the rear.
 
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