Pulled my spare engine apart for inspection

65 Ford Mustang 289 v-8
 

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We had a 1917 Titan IH tractor on the ranch, hadn't run in years, but all it had for a radiator was a 30 or so gallon tank of water. It was a longitudinal flat 2 cyl with a huge bore and stroke.

You could probably do the same and the tank would take a loooong time to reach 160° or 180° using a thermostat.
 
When our club built an engine test stand, we gleaned all sorts of parts from our members. Someone donated a used Model A radiator that had some leaks and really didn't look good enough to be in a car. Fixed the leaks ourselves. Perfect for it's use. We managed to get all the accessories including flywheel, starter, generator, carb, dizzy, etc. Even have a bell housing that we use just for safety sake.
 
Nice thread. Thanks for taking the time to document your efforts. I'm in the middle of a similar project. Good luck with it
 
Here is a picture of the weeping spot in the head.

Since these are not a pressurized system consider this simple fix.
Clean the area well. Cut a piece of cotton cloth (tee shirt material would be fine) a bit larger than the hole. Saturate the cloth with silicone caulk and smooth it over the hole. Drain the water first :D. I've patched a whole lot of things this way and have had excellent success. Silicone can take a lot of heat and a water cooled head will never come close to affecting it negatively.
Heck if for some reason it doesn't work you can wire brush it off in a matter of minutes.
 
If that leak is from a rust pit, there's most likely hundreds of more rust pits getting ready to open up. I'd buy a 5.5 head for it, or for less money there are good used heads around.
 
Since you are putting this motor in your car just temporarily, maybe put the head that is on your current engine on this one, and get the 5.5 for your current engine when it is rebuilt.
 
[[/B]
5775 posts... hmmmm

I like to share what I am learning, hopefully others may learn something too. It does take a little extra effort to photograph/video this stuff but I enjoy it. Even if it doesn't turn out well, it's learning never-the-less.

You missed the ( lol ) obviously, it was a joke. Wayne
 
If that leak is from a rust pit, there's most likely hundreds of more rust pits getting ready to open up. I'd buy a 5.5 head for it, or for less money there are good used heads around.

Unfortunately the entire engine has signs of pitting on the outside, what have I got to lose by trying JB weld? I've read of all kinds of water jacket freezing repairs here on the Barn. Would be an interesting experiment if nothing else. I'll look for another head, see if I can find something.
 
Fired it up this morning, started right up except for me over-choking it.:)

Ran a compression test while it was warm, mostly looking for consistency at this time, as the rings will take some time to seat. Between 50-52 in all cylinders, would be nice to get in to the 60's + after it breaks in. Oil is clear, so other than the drippy head I think it can go in the car. Still no sign of any oil on the floor, big test will be getting it on the road.

Thanks to all that provided good information and constructive criticism. I'll probably be installing it in the car very soon.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ibo8TyKMEWo
 
Art sounding good :-) I see only one problem ----- you three guys should have been in my neighborhood running your motor! That would have been four older guys having some fun!
 
Art sounding good :-) I see only one problem ----- you three guys should have been in my neighborhood running your motor! That would have been four older guys having some fun!

I did get a few strange looks from the neighbors, but that's not unusual. :)
Re-torqued the head, each bolt took about an eighth turn.
 
If that leak is from a rust pit, there's most likely hundreds of more rust pits getting ready to open up. I'd buy a 5.5 head for it, or for less money there are good used heads around.

Tom, you must be psychic. Started to clean it up, and a big chunk fell out!
 

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