Pull the pan?

J

Jalopy Tin

Senior Member
So, i finally tried to start my long awaited -23 Runabout. Starter just clicked, nothing revolving. Could not turn the engine around with the handle. Had the parking handle all back and ignition retarded. Bought a new 6V battery and replaced some old cables including a new 1 gauge cable from battery to starter. Nothing happens. Took the starter out and run it on my bench. Everything ok. Changed the bendix spring that was a bit twisted, also checked that the flywheel ring, looked ok, by turning one wheel. Fan turns around. Assembled everything. Now the engine turns around without starting. Damn it..forgot the fuel shut off. Opened it and the engine fires one second.. Then it is got stuck!! Without a bang or smash or hit. Tries to roll it over the garage floor to see if fan is turning. It is stuck!
Am i a Model T rookie with a simple problem or do i have to pull the pan to say hallo to my broken crankshaft? Or is it something in the planetary.
Right now my dream fades:o
Please advice me and sorry for my school english.
/Tom
 
First what is the history of the motor?
How are you firing the spark?
Do you have good flow to the carb?
Did you try blocking the front wheels and jacking up one of the rear wheels when starting?
Did you take the Bendix off before removing the starter?
Do you have the bands to tight?
Is the starter shaft bent?
How do you have the timing set?
Do you open the needle valve when trying to start?
Have coils have they been checked?
Could be that the clutch is miss adjusted, the bands are too tight or the starter shaft is bent and jamming.
 
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Clearance is very close in the bottom of the oilpan at the flywheel area. Is it possible that part of the bendix spring fell down to the bottom by a previous owner? Put it in gear and try turnig the wheel backwards and listen closely for a rattle in that area. Best suggestion is pull the pan an pull an inspection just to be sure of what you have and or don`t have. It don`t take a very big piece to do major damage to the mag or pan itself. Monte
 
The car was restored in the 70's and then most of the time in a car collection. Seller claimed it runs and drives well. My agent/exporter has driven it and says it runs well. On the pictures from seller i can see that the engine is running, or at least the fan is running fast. A lot of peolple buy cars over internet and dont know what they buy, maybe including me, but i love my little T and just want to cure the problem, i have no hard feelings.
It has the original ignition system and the fuel is coming. I have both wheels in the air and took the bendix off before removing the starter.
The starter shaft was straight and the coils and ignition is not checked because they both said it run. The needle valve was opened 3/4 turn.
When it is in neutral it still is hard to push, i believe, compared to a modern car.
/Tom
 
Now i have removed the crankcase lower cover... the crank is solid, pushrods and pistons too. No strange wear. A very small amount of carbon on the inside of cover, little more on the upper inside of the piston. No metal chips anywhere.
No trange subjects when i feel with my finger on the inside of the flywheel cover and through drain plug hole. Will try to use a mirror and a flashlight to look down into the case.
Lucky me got my Ford "Bible" today, for my further troubleshooting.
How do i check if the bands are too tight?
/Tom
 
:( So... found a loose object in the flywheel case.. a 2" long 0,24" dia. stick. Looked like brass to me. Also found some other strange metal objects. At least my crank was not broken.
Do i have to remove engine from chassis or can i get access to this part an easier way? Any tips or tricks would be very appreciated.
/Tom
 
Start by pulling the hogs head and do a visual inspection of the magnets, keepers and coil ring. From your description what you have found is a screw for the flywheel magnet clamping plate which also hold on the ring gear. Yes you will have to pull the motor to make repairs. I am sorry, that is not a good find.
Another good place to ask questions as you go along is the Model T Ford Club of America. There are a number of guys from Sweden that post there.
 
Had the same issue on my '22 Touring years ago. I had a magnet break in half and throw while driving and it spun off spools and rods in the trans case. I pulled the hogshead and pan off and rebuilt the magneto. Worked fine ever since and I really knew my motor after that.

Jim from IL
 
Thanks a lot friends. I love Ryans forum, Ford Barn and Hamb. Have not written much but have learned amazing much just by reading. It is easy to become dependent, i'm a Hamb/barnaholic, Have a nice weekend, myself i will spend a few hours in the garage, after i have been practice on some really good cu** words.. not because it helps but can be helpful to have.
/Tom
 
Jim, Monte and Redmodelt.. well.. the other day i gave birth to a heavy and lovely fellow on my garage floor. I scrutinized the Ford Service Manual closely and and with two strong friends and 30 minutes later it was on a pallet on the floor.
I found several objects in the wrong place, as You can see. Now i will take it apart and change the demolished parts. Because i don't know the condition of coils and timer, i have decided to go for a distributor. I have a lot of questions and the first that comes in mind is: is it very important to use a crankcase and timer cover align tool when i assemble the engine/transmission? Use of a band clamp & wrench?
I have a slow speed adjustment screw but the slow speed pedal shaft seem to be in two halfes, is that common? The band lining is 3,5mm, shall i change the lining? And last.. is a ball bearing ball cap the ultimate thing for my rear part of engine or is it good enough to replace the babbit bearing with a machined brass bearing?
/Tom
 

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Of course i ment a bronze bearing. I had a metal plate laser cut and attached it to the deck plane instead of the water pump holes, so now i can start the disassembly, with the engine turning around if i wish.
/Tom
 

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I have found out that my rear main cap has to be replaced with a rebabbited one. The crank end play is too big.
Also found that the front cap, according to Lang's site, has to be 1 5/16" long. Mine is 1,23" long.
Have one used a center main cap as a front cap? Cut down? My center is 2 1/32 and the rear is ok minus the wear. What do You think?
/Tom
 
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