PS idler arm

[1930artdeco]

Hi all,

I have new bushings for my PS idler arm but the bushings that I took off had these cups. Do I need to keep them with the new bushings? They were the original bushings.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[KULTULZ]

What are you working on?

 

[1930artdeco]

Sorry, 57 country sedan, v8 with PS.

Mike

 

[KULTULZ]

Below is an ILL of OEM install (complete service kit). Those washers look like they are from a 3C590 kit (steering cyl bushing kit).

Did you just buy the bushings or a complete service kit?

 

[mercman from oz]

Idler Arm for 1957 Ford Country Sedan needing Bushes.

 

[KULTULZ]

Below is an ILL of OEM install (complete service kit). Those washers look like they are from a 3C590 kit (steering cyl bushing kit).

Also, here is an ENG ILL showing the parts explosion -

 

[1930artdeco]

I just bought the bushings. I will look at the kit and see if I can get the washers as well.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[KULTULZ]

What you have may not be OEM but aftermarket.

There were so many vendors (and quality) over the years it would be hard to ID.

Let us know what you find.

 

[1930artdeco]

I think it is original do to the rust/ dirt on it. But then again it could have been replaced 50 years ago at some point. Either way I will put it back together with the washers.

Mike

 

[1930artdeco]

Ok, so I think I have this thing mocked up correctly-I got lucky in that the bushings just dropped right onto it. I also noticed that the bushings were slightly off center with the inner sleeve, will that be a problem?

Mike

 

[KULTULZ]

There is something about the arm itself and the take-off bushings that doesn't seem quite right.

Below are other ILL's showing ASSY and DETAIL. The washers have to be flat as to not interfere with inner/outer bushing sleeve movement.

If you go ahead, make sure the concave washer does not interfere with the bushing(s) (turn upside down) and don't fully torque to spec until steering wheel is centered and toe can be set correctly.

 

[Daves55Sedan]

The 1956 model year was the first time they switched to the encased rubber bushings on the idler arms.
The '54/55 cars with power steering had a very complex system incorporating a set of standoff/inserts at top and bottom of the steering arm or idler arm bracket. There was an accompanying large round roller bearing and flat-washers that sat on the standoff at each end. There was no need for a press. The standoffs were machined to fit snugly in the bore of the steering arm and idler arm bracket. Each roller bearing had a grease fitting. The problem with this arrangement was that no one ever greased the roller bearings, they dried out and started to cause hard steering. However, the design (if it had been properly maintained) was superior to the later encased rubber bushings.
Once upon a time, Timken made replacement roller bearings, but the pattern was dropped when they started stamping in china, and no other bearing companies produce replacements for that pattern today.
I had a complete original '57 PS setup which only had the metal encased rubber bushings with large flat-washer and castle-nut on the end. Flat-washers were only about 1/16" thick.

 

[Daves55Sedan]

A few years ago, you could buy the whole kit including idler arm, bushings, washers and castle-nuts. Now, some vendors are only selling the bushings.
If you had an earlier idler arm replacement from a kit, you may notice that the shaft portion is way smaller than the original, but they cast-in a couple of "gussets" at the base of the shaft to keep the shaft centered. Those gussets can wear-down and cause too much vertical slop in the idler arm movement. So if you can only get bushings now, it may not help if you had one of those aftermarket idler arms.

 

[KULTULZ]

A few years ago, you could buy the whole kit including idler arm, bushings, washers and castle-nuts. Now, some vendors are only selling the bushings.

If you had an earlier idler arm replacement from a kit, you may notice that the shaft portion is way smaller than the original, but they cast-in a couple of "gussets" at the base of the shaft to keep the shaft centered. Those gussets can wear-down and cause too much vertical slop in the idler arm movement. So if you can only get bushings now, it may not help if you had one of those aftermarket idler arms.

Yeah, I think that is what is going on here, aftermarket vendor.

If you decide on a correct arm, you may find one on EvilBay - B4A 3352-B (PS) FORD NOS.

 

[KULTULZ]

This keeps bothering me.

 

[Daves55Sedan]

This keeps bothering me.

That second photo is a roller bearing kit for '54/55 (and would fit the '56 idler arm), but I don't think the old style was available at the factory anymore.
The original print of the '56 Ford Car shop manual shows metal encased rubber bushings for the PS idler arm. (that could mean that the early '56 cars might have had some of the '55 idler arm kits, but that the rubber bushings shown in the shop manual were the factory authorized replacement).
What bothers me is that his '57 idler arm has large recessed washers on the shaft ends that have no value at all with the use of rubber bushings. I think that idler arm came off a different car. Mercury or Edsel maybe?

 

[1930artdeco]

Here is the bracket and large bushing that I knocked out. No bearings in it-just lots of rubber. I do have a relatively early early car-I think. It is numbered 156915 from Norfolk. From what I have read you drop the ‘1’ so that would mean it is #56915.

Mike

 

[KULTULZ]

Here is the bracket and large bushing that I knocked out. No bearings in it-just lots of rubber.

I have no idea what that is that you have taken off. If it was my car, I would look for a correct NOS OEM part. The idler arm was basically the same from 1954 to 1960. The PN is B4A 3352-B. There is no way to maintain correct toe with whatever that is.

I do have a relatively early early car-I think. It is numbered 156915 from Norfolk. From what I have read you drop the ‘1’ so that would mean it is #56915.

Mike

Consecutive Unit Numbers begin at 100001 for Ford cars, 400001 for Lincoln cars, 500001 for Mercury cars, and 700001 for Edsel cars at each assembly plant (where those cars were produced). This number represents the scheduled sequence order. When a car was ordered, it was immediately assigned a VIN with a Consecutive Unit Number. It was then assigned a scheduled production date based on availability of trim, parts, other components, and taking into account downtime and production workloads at the assembly plant.

A scheduled production date was very often out of sequence with the Consecutive Unit Number. And more often than not, the actual production date (the day the car rolled off the line) was earlier or later than what was originally planned.

Therefore, a Thunderbird with a Consecutive Unit Number of 105678 may have actually been produced and ready for shipping before a Thunderbird with a Consecutive Unit Number of 105432. The Consecutive Unit Number should be considered to be a unique identification that shows when the order was received and when it was planned for production.

SOURCE - https://forums.aaca.org/topic/120694-1957-t-bird-body-plate-decode/

 

[1930artdeco]

Thanks K,


This car is so banged up anything is possible. IT may have been rebuilt/replaced decades ago. But will start looking.


Mike

 

[KULTULZ]

Thanks K,

This car is so banged up anything is possible. IT may have been rebuilt/replaced decades ago. But will start looking.

Mike

After seeing your avatar photo, I was under the assumption it was a cherry piece. The parts are out there if you know where to look. I wouldn't trust anything new as to quality. Once you have the kit you can use those bushings for rebuild in the future.