Protection for aluminum heads

I use No-Rosion in my '34 with aluminum heads but I won't know for sure if it is preventing electrolysis until I have occasion to remove the heads. I suppose I could take a voltage measurement though....:rolleyes:
 
4dFord/SC said:
I use No-Rosion and a sacrificial anode, just to be on the safe side.
Click to expand...

When the anode is totally dissolved where does those pieces of corroded anode go? Does it sink to the bottom of the radiator? Is it flushed out when coolant is changed? Does in stay in suspension in the coolant? Also, wonder why the radiator drain **** is not located on the bottom of the radiator so that
the remnants of corrosion could be more easily flushed out?

Please post purchase info on your anode.

Can you make your own anode by attaching a piece of magnesium to your radiator cap using fishing line and suspending it in your top tank OR does the anode have to physically be in contact to the inside of the metal radiator?
 
A flathead Ford cast iron block with aluminum heads is exactly the same as most modern 4-cylinder engines. A regular old mixture of 50/50 antifreeze works just fine. That is what the manufacturers recommend. You will not any signs of electrolysis on the modern engines heads when they are removed. Use modern composite head gaskets. Don'r spray them with copper coat or anything else. They have sealer on them already from the factory. New Edelbrock heads recommend Felpro composite gaskets be used. Because the cast iron block and the aluminum heads expand and contract at different rates automotive manufacturers have engineered composite gaskets to solve the problem. The combination of cast iron, aluminum heads and copper head gaskets will cause electrolysis and eat up your heads. There is no reason to use copper gaskets on a street engine. They are for severe cylinder pressures like in race cars where the heads are coming off almost every race.

Speaking of electrolysis. If you look at the garden hoses everybody is selling now they have aluminum fittings on the ends instead of brass. I go through hoses like crazy around here with eight hose bibs. With an aluminum hose fitting screwed onto the brass hose bid after about a month I cannot break the bond between the aluminum fitting and the brass hose bib, electrolysis has welded them together. I have one hose attached a soldered copper fitting from the house that I'm going to have to cut off. Its the same thing if I connect a hose with a brass end to one with an aluminum end. After awhile I end up having to cut the connection out. You cannot leave them screwed together for more than a few days. The fittings will just crush under the force of using channel locks while trying to get them to separate. Do not buy those hoses with the aluminum ends, that's about all there is anymore. I swear the Chinese do this stuff on purpose!
 
Is this really a problem? 10,20 yrs. Run the heads report back in 10 yrs.



Are we hosers? Chinese make products made to order. Aluminum is cheap. Grated our choices are limited due to location of production and expectations of quality.
 
Flathead fever: Could you use some type of Anti-Seize Compound on your hose bibs
to inhibit corrosion? Even non hardening Permatex would work.
 
20 years with Offy heads running propylene glycol antifreeze and when I look in the water outlets the heads look like new.
 
19Fordy said:
Flathead fever: Could you use some type of Anti-Seize Compound on your hose bibs
to inhibit corrosion? Even non hardening Permatex would work.
Click to expand...

I thought about the anti-seize but I'm always drinking out of the hoses like a little kid and filling up the animal water bowls. I'm trying to die from excessive cheese poisoning not lead poisoning. Permatex might work, even teflon tape. Not tightening them all the way works too. Its just that I'm willing pay the extra 3 cents for the brass ends. Everyone of those hoses with the aluminum fittings is made out of the country. I'm convinced its a Chinese conspiracy to sell us more hose fittings. Its just like the 1' metal stakes I bought for forming up concrete from the Home Depot. The two nail holes in them are spaced just a little too wide for both to nail into a 2"X 4". I had to drill another hole in every stake. I finally found some new made in USA stakes with the holes spaced for 2"X4"s. I think the Chinese sit around all day thinking of ways to sabotage the stuff they sell here. I bought a brass rainbird at an Estate Sale that screws on the end of a hose. Its probably from the 1930s. It works great. I can't get the new ones to last three-months.
 
I'm glad I'm not the only one with hose problems. Those aluminum fittings are the pits. I've had to cut some of them off as well. And don't even get me started on the cheap sprinklers....

As to the OP, I also use no-rosion, but like everyone else, the jury is still out...

Heard
 
I am no expert but Most of the Chinese stuff is not that great ,I thought the Drake running boards didn't look to bad but I think Bobs watching the quality ,and he's brought the USA component to it ,
 
Plus much of Bob's offering are from Taiwan, not mainland China and there tends to be a difference in quality between those sources.
 
Taiwan is kinda the good stuff nowdays. Japan is damn near premium. US made is real good, or it can be miserable junk like all the rest.
 
I got caught by the aluminum/brass corrosion problem with two hoses, now they are one. I have had good success using Liquid Wrench dielectric/anti-seize at the connection to the house.

P.S. I don't drink out of a hose anymore based on what might be living or growing in there.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top