Process for freeing up stuck clutch

M

mcgarrett

Well-known member
I'm working on getting a '30 Coupe back into service that has been sitting idle for about 40 years outdoors under a carport.:( The owner knows nothing about Model A's but wants to get it running again in honor of her father and grandfather who owned it previously.

After doing all the preliminary work for an engine that has been sitting that long I got it started on Thursday and the engine sounds great! :)

Now to my question...short of pulling the engine, is there a preferred method of freeing up a stuck clutch? I don't know yet if it's stuck, but would like to be prepared to deal with that issue. I have heard horror stories of folks who took the wrong approach and ended up scattering the transmission, literally. This kind of failure is not an option so we want to take all the necessary precautions.
 
It's been many years ago but my wife towed me in the Model A's second gear with my F250. I had the clutch pedal pushed out. By the second lap around the block, it broke loose. This wasn't a 40 year situation though.
 
GPierce,
Thanks a lot, that is exactly the info I needed. I had thought about using some of the tactics described in this thread, but just wanted to be sure I was on the right track. :)
 
Here is what I have done for years with both car and motorcycle clutches.
(1) start the motor in neutral and warm it up so it won’t stall when this process is begun.
(2) start the motor in second gear (obviously you would make sure that you had the car in A safe direction be fore starting.
(3) drive around in second gear with the clutch pedal pushed down and alternating between full throttle and zero throttle. I have never had this process fail to work.
 
What actually happens when the clutch sticks? I am thinking that the clutch disk sticks to the flywheel and also the pressure plate, so the clutch pedal will also be stuck. If you stump the pedal loose, it is likely that the clutch release arm A-7511 broke. If the disk just sticks to the flywheel or the pressure plate, the car should be drive-able. Is my thinking correct?
 
Assuming the engine runs, do like JRrey said, but may I please suggest choosing 1st gear. That puts WAY less stress on the transmission, transmission case, and the cluster gear.

If it does not run, towing with another vehicle works. Just make sure you use a bridle connected on the outside of the spring perches, and then hook the tow strap to the bridle. Don't just connect a strap to the center of the front axle.
 
I certainly would not stomp on the pedal. For my process simply pushing the pedal down until it was firm but not to the point of breaking something.
 
Excellent feedback & much appreciated.

As I was surveying the situation when I first took on this job, one of the first things that hit me was the possibility of a stuck clutch since the car has been sitting out in the weather but under a carport for almost 40 years. North Texas weather has all the weather extremes to contribute to a stuck clutch.

The first thing I was able to celebrate was that the engine was NOT STUCK! I couldn't believe it after all that time.
 
If the car runs?

Jack up the rear end, start the car in second gear, let it run spinning the rear wheels.

Now hit the brakes. This has worked for me on a couple of cars. Better than toeing.

Good luck.
 
Thanks guys. Nice to have experience of so many to work with. I now have options that should do the trick if it's stuck.
 
I have a transmission on my bench right now. The throwout carrier was somehow "stuck" and pulled up hard against the front of the transmission housing by the spring. Prying and judicious hammering would not move the carrier.

I finally unbolted the front bearing retainer (the throwout carrier "slides" on this) and removed the sub-assembly.

Standing upright in the vise, I again tried to pry the carrier off the retainer. No go.

While standing, I put PB Blaster on the juncture between parts. Let it sit overnight.

The next day I could "turn" the throwout carrier a little bit. And then a little more. And then (finally) I could pry the carrier up off the bearing retainer.

I found the interstice chock full of grease. More like "tar" now. Well, there is an alemite fitting to grease the bearing carrier as an aid to movement. But that was 40 years ago someone greased this one last.

It's now cleaned out, sliding nicely and isn't even worn too much.

Joe K
 
Joe K,
Good info to consider. My plan at this point is to remove the access cover on the bell housing and check things inside like you just mentioned. I'll try to grease the T/O bearing retainer sleeve so the bearing can easily slide and spray brake cleaner all around the clutch disc to encourage it to let go if it has a tight grip. As I mentioned - I don't know for sure it's stuck, but my guess is it probably is after all these years outdoors. As Jerry Clower said, "give everything a sportin' chance!" :D
 
You might want to check to see if the clutch release shaft arm is working. If it is cracked it will not allow the clutch to release. Remove the floor boards and observe the movement of the clutch shaft when depressing the clutch pedal. If the shaft does not rotate the arm could be cracked. It must be replaced. Part # A-7511-B
 
Take off the inspection plate. Push in the clutch (engine off ) stick a long screwdriver and pry back/ move the pressure plate. Rotate engine and do another spot. This has worked for me plenty of times.
Starting the car in 1rst works well, when you get a little speed up keep the pedal pushed down and lock up the brakes! Works everytime.
 
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