Problems with 6V Optima battery

[COE Dan]

37 Coupe...

That Optima would take a charge but didn't have any reserve capacity...i.e. the cranking power was gone. I don't know how old the battery was because I bought the car without ever meeting the owner...long story, not a pretty one. I was going to swap to a lead-acid battery but I decided to purchase a new optima. I moved to Hawaii and I was planning on shipping the car. I didn't want a gallon of sulfuric acid sloshing around inside my car while in transit.

Unfortunately, the shipping company workers didn't know how to start a stock '39 Ford and they left the ignition switch in the ON position...for 3 1/2 weeks. My brand new Optima was dead upon arrival. I tried charging it but it only measured .95 volts after 12 hours of charge...that was expensive. I bought a replacement Optima and was fully expecting the ignition system to be burned up...to my surprise, it wasn't and I was back on the road. Fortunately, the shipping company allowed me to file a claim to replace the battery.

The new Optimas have great cranking power but if you check the numbers, they actually have less reserve power than a lead-acid...probably because there is less electrolyte in the container. I keep mine on a battery tender as well.

In short (no pun intended), don't fully discharge your optima or you'll have $190 boat anchor...


COE Dan

 

[Shadetree]

I have my Optima teamed up with a solid state cut-out on my `35 and have had no issues whatsoever.

Shadetree

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

The older Red Top 6V Optima's had some kind of problems in the top section that was causing failures. GM did a post report on this problem some time ago. Don't remember exactly what it was but the newer versions are now about 1/4" taller (probably necessary space to make corrections). Mine has been doing well in my '35 fordor for over two years. Bought it on sale on line with a deal that included an additional $25.00 rebate. That made the total cost back then about $140.00. It's well mounted under the floor and I don't have to worry about doing any maintenance.

 

[Shadetree]

JM,
Are you enjoying your new coupe? I have owned other body styles but I love the old coupes best. There it just something about them...

Bud

 

[rotorwrench]

One thing I have noticed about the Optima is that they usually just up and quit, sometimes leaving you stranded. Undoubtedly it is related to an open condition in a connector strap inside there some where. Otherwise they give pretty good service all in all. These type batteries may be all that survive the EPA need to get rid of all haz mats. (I sure wish I could still get red lead)

We use some really high dollar jell cell or saturated fiber mat type batteries in the helicopters and were having trouble with longevity. You would like a $1500 battery to last at least 2-years. Many weren't making it a year in extreme heat situations. When we started using the special cycling type battery tenders we noted a vast improvement in longevity. They will last 2 or more years when plugged in to these type of chargers when not in use. I guess they apply a load for a while and then apply a charge all in timed cycles. All I know is that they work and that's the bottom line.

Kerby

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

JM,
Are you enjoying your new coupe? I have owned other body styles but I love the old coupes best. There it just something about them...

Bud

Bud, I am!! BUT....I originally said I was not going to do much to it except get it running good and make it a reliable driver. I started doing that and one thing lead to another and I'm just about ready to remove the engine now to check it out, clean it up and paint it, etc. Apparently the engine was rebuilt not too long ago because it's bored + .030 and very little if any wear showing at the top of the cylinders. Also planning to put on Eddie Meyer heads and 2x2 intake with 2 SB 81's, H&C or Crab distributor and maybe a few other goodies. Will probably remove the trans while engine is out and go through that, maybe install a later gear set. Sounds like it's turning into a winter project but I am having fun. Gotta' love these old Ford Flathead V8's Sorry about hijacking this post with a bunch of pictures.

 

[Shadetree]

JM,
Knowing you it will be perfect. That is a good looking original coupe!

Bud

 

[37don]

I've had mine for almost 6yrs and no issues. I hardly ever use my WalMart battery tender. If I do put it on it only takes a few hrs to fully charge. I do notice that when I take a 300 mi. trip the battery seems stronger but then at my age it might be dreaming while awake. They are great batteries and as 37Ford says NO MESS ON FIREWALL. Oh, I always forget to put it on charge when the season ends and it still starts the car without a problem.
Don

 

[Lawson Cox]

I have 10 year old Optima that has never been charged. What say you all on the best chance of waking up this sleeping beauty?

Battery Tender. Get em at Wally World real cheap. It may take it a couple of days at what 1.5 amps? It will tell you if battery is charged.

 

[37 Coupe]

It has been on the Wally World charger for a couple days,actually shows it is charged pretty quickly but not enough to crank before it completly discharges very quickly.

 

[breadman]

My last 6 volt Optima pooped out after 9 years in my '35 Ford. I ordered a new one from a outfit in CA for $128, shipping included. I use a Battery Tender for maintaining charge, installed 00 welding cables for the starter, and run a Fun Products voltage regulator in place of the cutout. I have a trouble-free system that is ultra reliable.

 

[G.M.]

I had 2 Optma 6 volt failures. One failed years ago and I was going to cut it apart because of the way they suddenly fail I suspected connection failure.The other failed in my 39 convertible in Va. on my way back to Fl. from Pa. We stopped for lunch in Va. and came out and the starter made about 2 sluggish turns. Hit it again and the solenoid just clicked. I got my 12 volt battery pack out and jumped it to the starter, this pack has a switch to energize to cables. Stopped at the last gas pumps so I could coast and kick start it. I had one of my 6 volt alternators on and drove way down in Ga. with the lights and no problem. Parked on an ant hill at the motel and couldn't get rolling and needed the power pack in the morning. Drove all day and needed the pack just above Tampa getting gas. When I got back I cut the top off the older failure and where the lead plates came up out of the round acid cell below the POS terminal they looked like someone cut them off with a plasma cutter. There are 8 or 9 lead ends .030 thick about 1-1/8" wide and a little over 1" high soldered into slots on the terminals below the top cap. There are acid fumes in this 1" space between the top and the top of the cells. There is also a vent hole in the cap leaving air in which isn't good. I read up on another gel type manufacture and they use a check valve which only opens if the fume pressure rises which sounds better to me. I opened the latest failure from the trip and it had the same condition but had one little area about 1/2' long on ONE of the thin lead ends just below where they are soldered to the terminal post. The sudden complete failures are burnt with nothing touching and COE DAN'S sounds like the one that failed on my return trip. Optima knows of this and changed their warrantee to a full replacement if it fails within 3 years. With no prorate you buy a new one after that. They are strong when they work and I still buy them it's worth not having to deal with the acid and fumes. I supported keeping them on a 1-1/2 amp automatic charger but after seeing the problem the charging may make some acid fumes and be part of the problem. Of course if you drive long distances your charging more then 1-1/2 amps for longer durations than the charger??? G.M.

 

[31chevy]

I laid mine on it's side under the seat on my 34 pickup , can't do that with lead acid battery. I have had one in my 31 chev since 2003 , so far so good.

 

[FL&WVMIKE]

The older Red Top 6V Optima's had some kind of problems in the top section that was causing failures. GM did a post report on this problem some time ago. Don't remember exactly what it was but the newer versions are now about 1/4" taller (probably necessary space to make corrections). Mine has been doing well in my '35 fordor for over two years. Bought it on sale on line with a deal that included an additional $25.00 rebate. That made the total cost back then about $140.00. It's well mounted under the floor and I don't have to worry about doing any maintenance.

JOHN .....................
I like the way that you lowered the bottom of your battery tray, without drilling any extra holes in Henry's iron.
I can't really tell, but, to me, that looks like 12v battery cables in your photos.
MIKE

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

Hi Mike, that one cable that's hanging down is just a piece of #18-2 lamp/zip cord with a special plug on the end for the trickle charger. I don't think the actual battery cables are visible there but they are definitely the heavy gauge for 6V. Thanks for being concerned and letting me know though.

 

[FL&WVMIKE]

Hi Mike, that one cable that's hanging down is just a piece of #18-2 lamp/zip cord with a special plug on the end for the trickle charger. I don't think the actual battery cables are visible there but they are definitely the heavy gauge for 6V. Thanks for being concerned and letting me know though.

JOHN .................
I figured that something was wrong.
I knew that our '35 Guru would not have 12v cables !
MIKE

 

[Cecil/WV]

John's a guru???