Problems Setting Valve Lash

57ChevyWagonMan

57ChevyWagonMan

Member
I am in the process of completing my first Flathead build. All has gone smoothly until now. I found the instructions:



https://www.fordbarn.com/attachments/254983/


The problem begins at the start when valves 4ex and 1in are open. The two valves are never open at the same time! I am using an Isky Max 1 Part # 811100 cam shaft. Is their likely enough difference in this cam and the stock cam to cause me problems? If so How do I deal with it?



Another concern I have is regarding the valve lash settings. I am not 100% certain what year my block is. All I know is that it is a 49-53. How should I gap my lifters? The cam sheet says .014 cold. Is that correct for both intake and exhaust?


Thanks!


Mike
 
Block year shouldn't have anything to do with valve lash. It will depend on the cam and the lifters used (and if there are rotator valves). First question I would have (seeing the Chevy) is you do understand the cylinder numbering, correct? It is NOT the same as a Chevy. Secondly, a high performance cam is going to be a little different in the duration over a stock cam.
 
I remember reading a thread on the H.A.M.B. that Iskendarian sold a bunch of cams that were way out of spec a few years ago. Maybe you have one of those. I just got done building an engine with a MAX-1 and had no such problems. Perhaps a little research is in order.
 
OK,


How is the cylinder numbering then? I always thought the number one was the closest to the front of the engine and then all odd cylinders followed behind it, even on the other side? Please set me straight?! I started this project a long time ago and I just want to get it right.


Thanks!
 
57ChevyWagonMan said:
I am in the process of completing my first Flathead build. All has gone smoothly until now. I found the instructions:



https://www.fordbarn.com/attachments/254983/


The problem begins at the start when valves 4ex and 1in are open. The two valves are never open at the same time! I am using an Isky Max 1 Part # 811100 cam shaft. Is their likely enough difference in this cam and the stock cam to cause me problems? If so How do I deal with it?



Another concern I have is regarding the valve lash settings. I am not 100% certain what year my block is. All I know is that it is a 49-53. How should I gap my lifters? The cam sheet says .014 cold. Is that correct for both intake and exhaust?


Thanks!


Mike
Click to expand...


If the cam sheet says .014 then that is the last word.
If you adjust the valves by the simplest method there is, you will have no problems worrying about which is open when or what the firing order is.
If you do not know the firing order, start with the first valve on one bank, doesn't matter which bank. Roll the engine over with a bar till the valve is wide open. Stop. Mark the front pulley at the timing pointer with chalk. Turn the crank one full turn back to the mark. This will put the cam on the heel for the lifter you are adjusting. Adjust the lifter. MARK THAT VALVE WITH CHALK.
This will let you know that one is adjusted. Next, RUB THE CHALK MARK OFF THE FRONT PULLEY. Proceed to the next adjacent valve and repeat the process.

The cylinder order is, number 1 is right bank front and straight back to 4.
Left bank front is 5 and straight back to 8.
Firing order is 15486372.
 
Last edited:
57ChevyWagonMan said:
OK,


How is the cylinder numbering then? I always thought the number one was the closest to the front of the engine and then all odd cylinders followed behind it, even on the other side? Please set me straight?! I started this project a long time ago and I just want to get it right.


Thanks!
Click to expand...
No that's for a SBC and most other late model engines. A ford flathead is 1-2-3-4 front to back on the right (US passenger) side and 5-6-7-8 front to back on the left side. This is a common mistake.
 
Thinking Chevy will get you in trouble on a flathead! :) Actually any Ford I have ever worked on is numbered 1-4 right side and 5-8 left side, just always been a Ford thing.
 
I'm happy to see Pete stressing the simplest method for valve adjustment. Keep it simple, and you wont get mixed up with the process. Way to go Pete.
 
Pete,
I’ve never heard of doing it that way, but it makes perfect sense! The crank rotates twice the camshaft, therefore once on the crank is exactly half way around on the cam! It’s so simple I’ve always overlooked it in favor of more complicated ways!
And the best thing, no matter what the cam grind, it’s always perfect.
 
My late Grandfather made a living working on these things. One of my old bosses once said to me that my Grandpa had forgotten more about cars than the two of us would ever know! I am sure he was right. I often wish he was still here. This Flathead build has taught me an awful lot. really appreciate everyone's guidance.


All the best!


Mike
 
Get you a repair manual. Ask, ask, ask. There are no dumb questions and this site is filed with folks that love to share their knowledge. We have all gained a little along the way and will freely share what we think we know.
EVERYONE on this site has messed up along the way and fall short of perfection,(sounds like a scripture i read somewhere) but together we can get it figured out.
Welcome aboard and enjoy the adventure, Chap
 
yes, Been using Pete's method for the past 60 or so years. He taught it to me when I was a wee lad.
 
I grew up doing chevy firing order/cylinder numbering and knew the firing order by heart, but working on fords thru me for a loop, finally wrote the firing order on the shop wall to keep from returning to the old days!! I have only been doing flatheads for 47 years now and just about used to them!
 
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