Priming the oil passages for first start

Mark's 37

Mark's 37

Senior Member
Thanks to Harley for passing along this primer idea. I cobbled it together today.
Used the port next to the oil sender and filled the pipe with break in oil, placed a cap on top with a drilled 1/4" hole, then a couple little hits of compressed air to push the oil through the engine.
 

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I have a similar set-up but am a couple months from starting the engine. What method did you use to ensure the bearings were lubed and the oil didn't simply back flow through the pump into the oil pan? My oil pump has no check valve to prevent this so I assume none do. At present I plan to use the device and crank the engine without plugs until I get a pressure indication. But, I am always open to a better idea.
 
SofaKing, the pump should have .0015 to .006 thousandth's clearance. Some oil will seep by but most will follow the least resistance. Thru the cam bearings to the mains on to the rod bearings. You will lose some at each bearing but you know it is getting oil. Just don't blow the pipe dry, keep adding oil. It has always worked good for me. Harley
 
I seem to remember in diesel auto shop doing something similar with a bug type sprayer full of oil and pressurizing the system
 
If you have lubed everything on assembly, and then prior to running the engine up, you do the priming thing as mentioned above, then it will be fine.
The whole aim is to "wet" the pump gears, so a to get a seal. If you run up your engine after that and it doesn't pump oil, then you have done something wrong.

If the pump is in spec and wet, it will prime.
 
On any engine I want to oil pressurize first.

I use a ford 250 oil pump immersed in a can of oil .

Plumb it into an oil gallery and use a cordless drill in reverse until oil pressure shows on the gauge.
 
I pack the pump with white lube. I remove the spark plugs and spin the motor to get oil pressure. This is assuming that you have used white lube (or similiar) in and on bearings etc. My car is a 6 volt but I use a 12 volt to spin the starter....
You will have oil pressure in seconds!
 
I made a pressure tank out of a Freon tank, I put 3-4 guarts in it, mounted a pressure guage on top of tank, put a pipe down the middle of the tank about 1/2in from the bottom of the tank with a shut off valve on top, and a flex line to block, another steel line in the top of the tank with a shut off valve to put air in the tank. Put in about 40# air, shut off air, open oil shut off and force oil into engine, I crank the engine with a wrench a couple of times, you can hear the oil going into the engine and watch guage in the tank go down, don't let all the oil force in cause you just force air in. shut the air to the engine, open valve to let air out tank, pour the rest of oil in the engine. Walt
 
Years ago when a built a 289 for an O/T car I borrowed a oil pressuring system from the shop that did the machine work to pressurize the engine before the initial start. It was made from an old pressurized brake bleeder tank and it worked like Walt said. I'm going to be starting a newly rebuilt 8ba in my p/u in a couple of months and I'm thinking of making a pressurizer out and old paint pot I have.
 
This one is made from an old pressure bleeder tank. Worked well. Will be using it again soon.
 

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I use a paint pressure pot. I just put a Quart of oil down in the center of the pot,
put the lid on and apply 20 or 30 lbs of pressure with a hose from the pot to the
rear oil port on the left side of the engine. G.M.
 
I come from a poor part of town. :o I do like most of you do, but I use a Hudson Sprayer. :rolleyes: Hey,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,you gotta do what you gotta do. :cool:
 
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