Priming a newly built 292 for first start

zuburg

zuburg

Senior Member
For those that recognize my name, yes, I have decided to purchase a totally re-manufactured 292 engine to replace the sketchy 239 that was installed by the PO. I expect to receive the engine in the next week. I've been doing lots of research on the jobs ahead to do the engine swap.

I've talked to several people and have seen a lot of ideas about priming the engine with oil before I fire it up for the first time. Since the new engine will come with a new oil pump installed, but no distributor, it appears to me that the best and easiest way to prime the engine would be:
1) Pour oil into the oil filter and install it
2) Add oil in the normal oil filler tube
3) Use an oil pump priming tool which goes down the shaft where the distributor goes, to turn the oil pump until oil is distributed throughout the engine, or until you feel pressure on the pump.
4) It's my understanding that I should turn the pump counter clockwise?
5) I've seen several oil pump priming tools for this purpose, but not sure which one will work on a Y-block. Anyone have a pointer to one that would work?
6) Regarding item 3 above, I've seen several methods to know when the engine is primed. Leave the oil filter off and prime until oil comes out of the oil filter, leave the valve covers off and prime until you see oil in the rockers, or leave everything on, and prime until you feel pressure on the oil pump and the drill shows more resistance than when you started.

Any comments/opinions on above would be appreciated.
 
Dist. & oil pump turn counter-clockwise, looking down from the top.

Putting some oil in the filter can't hurt, but too much will spill.
Valve covers off. This verifies oil to the top end, and the center cam bearing was installed correctly.
If the center cam bearing is out of position it's possible to get oil on one side but not the other.
 

Attachments

  • y block firing order.jpg
    y block firing order.jpg
    35.9 KB · Views: 27
Last edited:
Good advice from dmsfrr and Hot Rod Reverend.

I know the shaft that drives the oil pump should be hex shaped and can be spun with the correct sized socket, but not sure if anyone makes a tool to spin it with a drill motor. The 239 Y-Block that came out of the car should have had a slotted drive shaft and not hex.

Also, I don't know if your remanufactured engine has the shaft included with it. It should I would think.

Sal
 
Did mine a few weeks back, mine was a freshly rebuilt 292 also. From memory the oil pump primer tool is a simple 1/4" socket but BE CAREFUL to use the type of socket that locks onto the extension or it might stay on the pump shaft.... I literally just used a 1/4" socket and extension and it worked a charm.

I turned mine by hand (counter clockwise) until I saw oil at the top of each head AND got oil pressure. I didnt trust the idiot light for oil pressure and installed a proper gauge which I still have in there. Managed to get 50PSI pressure by hand without turning it crazy fast.

I filled the oil filter like 2/3. Had a little weep out when I installed it but a quick wipe was all it took.

Try to avoid turning the motor over for an extended period to get gas to it.

Once running make sure you go through the proper cam break in. Probably 20 mins at 2000PM or similar. I tend to vary the RPM for the 20 mins.

Make sure you have coolant in the radiator and ATF in the trans if you drained it (I did).

Also, sounds paranoid but maybe think about having a fire extinguisher close by just in case...

If you haven't screwed around with the wiring or ignition you will be fine but on mine I checked I had 12v to the coil before turning the motor over. I also left the timing light hooked up to a lead and had it pointing at me. That way as the motor started to turn I immediately knew whether I had a spark from the timing light flashing.

I know I sound paranoid but the more things you can be sure of the less chance you have of needlessly turning over a fresh engine without it firing.

Just my 0.02
Paul
 
In addition to the above, I like to have a buddy turn the engine over by hand while I run the oil pump. Just to make sure everything is filled and lubed.
 
Would it be OK to do this priming while it is on the engine stand, before I install it into the car?
 
I forgot to mention that I'm not sure whether I have the 239 pump or the PO installed a 292 pump, but I'm hoping it is a 292 pump so the distributor will work on the new engine. The distributor physically looks like one from a 292.
 
Photo of a '56 distributor. IIRC yours does not have the tach drive.
 

Attachments

  • 56 dist, copy.jpg
    56 dist, copy.jpg
    18 KB · Views: 17
Just look down the distributor hole. It should be a hex shaft for the later pump.

You can use a speed wrench to turn the oil pump. Use a deep 1/4 socket, 1/4 drive with an extension. Wrap tape around the socket/extension joint to prevent the socket from dropping off. I have a 1/2 inch drill that I used to run the pump - the end of the extension fit into the jaws. A 3/8 drill is usually too small. 3/8 drive sockets are usually too big to get way down in the hole. Like the others mentioned, turn counter clock wise (reverse on a drill).

Place a good sized fan in front of the radiator when running the cam in, lots of air flow will keep things cool.

Make sure the distributor is at least top dead center or a little advanced before starting. A retarded setting will make things run hotter.

YBlocks like about a 10 -12 degree initial advance

The carb will determine the distributor. If you are using a stock carb (2bbl or teapot, you will need a 55/56 distributor. If a later carb, then the 57 up distributor must be used. The teapot can be modified for the later distributor.


zuburg said:
I forgot to mention that I'm not sure whether I have the 239 pump or the PO installed a 292 pump, but I'm hoping it is a 292 pump so the distributor will work on the new engine. The distributor physically looks like one from a 292.
Click to expand...
 
So then, after priming the oil, then there's the gas.
Use a mityvac to pull gasoline from the tank up to the fuel pump at the flexible hose connection. Once gas begins to enter the Mityvac container, disconnect the Mityvac hose and connect the flexible fuel hose from the fuel line to the fuel pump.
Next, fill your fuel filter glass bowl with fuel (on the T-bird models) and the fuel line from the pump up to the fuel filter. Use a plastic fitting with rubber hose and small funnel. I use an empty tuna can with a spout bent into the top of the tuna can. You can do that with your hand. Use the tuna can for filling. You won't need a lot of gas here. Maybe half the tuna can with gas will fill the line.
Now priming the carb, I use the tuna can again and just dump some gas right down the air tube that runs down to the float chamber. Again, you only need the tuna can filled less than half way to get enough gas in the float chamber to start the engine and then the pump will take over and start pumping gas into the carb.
 
I think all the boys have got you covered. I also think that most, if not all of us, are more than a bit paranoid when starting a new engine. I know I am. I worry about everything.
Good luck
 
Kahuna said:
I think all the boys have got you covered. I also think that most, if not all of us, are more than a bit paranoid when starting a new engine. I know I am. I worry about everything.
Good luck
Click to expand...

AGREED! Somewhere in these forums you can probably encounter someone to troubleshoot or offer procedures on just about anything on our old junkers. The knowledge is here somewhere. We do the work but when it is done and time to turn the key to see if it works, we hesitate, then say a prayer and bite the bullet. That's how my junker has kept running the last 40 plus years
 
Amen

daves55sedan said:
agreed! Somewhere in these forums you can probably encounter someone to troubleshoot or offer procedures on just about anything on our old junkers. The knowledge is here somewhere. We do the work but when it is done and time to turn the key to see if it works, we hesitate, then say a prayer and bite the bullet. That's how my junker has kept running the last 40 plus years
Click to expand...
 
I'm sorry I keep thinking of more questions preparing for this engine swap. I bought a nice engine stand that came with bolts to attach to the engine. It was originally used for a Chevy 350 engine, and the bolts are 3/8". Is this the same size I will need to attach my new 292?

Also, when I install the new engine and add the coolant, do I need to pour some coolant into the engine block itself? I didn't know if just filling the radiator would be enough or whether the water pump needed some kind of priming as well.

thanks,
 
Bolts thru the bell housing into the block are 7/16.
Filling the radiator should be fine, just expect the level to drop as air bubbles (heater core, etc.) work themselves out.
Put the rad. cap on after filling and carefully remove it a couple minutes after starting, before the engine heats up, to check & top off as needed.
 
It might be a good idea to turn the heater on before pouring the water in to try to prevent an air lock in the heater. When I was working in a gas station, we always turned the heater on when installing new anti-freeze.

It can also dissipate heat when running in the cam.
 
Some of us also drill a small hole in the tstat, 1/8-3/16". To let the air bleed out as water is added. Takes a while, an 1/8" doesn't pass much.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top